Best Way to 'Match' One Paint Brand to Another?
lottamoxie
14 years ago
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paintguy22
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Best way to fix paint mistakes?
Comments (34)LOL!! Moonshadow, you are too funny! In case my idea of a photoshopping career doesn't appeal to you, you should really consider some kind of creative writing! One thing's for sure -- you are not lacking for creative talent. I think we need to get Moon to come to Atlanta too. I need in-person moral support and she and I can cheer for the PnD team together. After the victory over the GWP, the PnD team can enjoy homemade Savannah crabcakes for lunch and pecan pie and peach 'n berry cobbler for dessert. Of course, served with sweet tea, and shared on our back porch with the scent of honeysuckle and jasmine from the gardens rather than paint fumes in the house. :) Funcolors, thanks for your moral support too! You're welcome to join the PnD team in Atlanta also. :) In all seriousness, you are so right that I had the knowledge of everyone here behind me. With everyone's input, I felt like I knew what I was talking about, and the contractor really wasn't left with any valid argument. I am VERY appreciative of everyone's advice. I also appreciate the humor -- it's helped to keep me sane through this. We met with our usual painter this morning. He's happy to take on the job and finish it properly for us, and I know he will. He actually spotted a few more problems that I hadn't noticed. He's proposing to prime the previously wallpapered wall and do two coats of paint. On the spots primed on the other three walls, he'll sand and/or feather the primer better than they have (they left distinct edges, which he said will result in texture problems), then he'll roll just those sections and feather that. Then he'll cover all three of those walls with another coat of blue. He said he thinks that will cover everything evenly, since the primed spots will still end up with two coats, but if it's not good, he'll do another coat. The trim is in such bad shape in so many places, including spots that weren't painted at all, he said it'll be easier to just repaint the trim than try to do spot fixes. And he found an area of the ceiling that wasn't painted and some areas that have scuff marks, so he's going to repaint the ceiling. He's also going to paint the vanity in the bathroom and give all the walls one more coat of blue. He thinks they may have just done one coat so far or he suggested that they may have watered down the paint. He's going to send me his estimate on Sunday. We told the contractor today that we're going with someone else, and once we get the quote, if it comes in lower, we'll pay him the difference. He said ok. I can't tell you what a relief it is to have that conversation behind us and to know that everything will be finished nicely from here on out. Thank you again to all of you who posted and helped me with this. I'm so glad I found this board!...See MoreBest way to paint wicker?
Comments (15)Don't forget you may have to remove some old paint to get the weave to show if it's very caked on. How? Tack hammer. Yes, if it is layers thick you can carefully tap it with a tack or other pointy hammer until the paint crumbles falls loose. I have "stripped" a number of pieces using this method but it's not for the faint of heart. If your wicker is paper fiber be very careful or you may have to order more and reweave, which I'm about to do. Apparently the many coats of paint will stabilize old fiber wicker, and I was surprised to find that the back of a rocker I had restored split open after all the work. The wire inside the craft paper fiber will eventually rust and weaken the weave, and the paint I tapped off was helping hold it all together. Don't be too quick to get rid of old paint if it's in pretty good shape. Use a good oil-based primer or stain-killing one on unfinished areas before repainting....See MoreCan anyone recommend one brand of Water Softener over Another?
Comments (11)Ok, So a few things that I see: the hardness level is between 5-12 grains per gallon. At the top end of that it's considered "Very Hard" but I see a lot of water harder than that. It seems very treatable. There appears to be no iron. They are using Chlorimine to disinfect your water. If you decide that you want to remove that, it requires a specialized type of carbon filter (catalytic carbon). You don't need to remove it... but some people like to use a carbon filter to remove chlorine and improve the taste / smell / and some chemicals for drinking water - in your case you would need the carbon filter to remove chlorimine - not chlorine So back to your original question: "Which brand?" Water softening is a specific thing: Exchanging hardness ions for sodium ions. No special sauce or anything like that. It's a common and commodity process. Because it's become a commodity, companies are trying to add more to it to differentiate themselves. And, because you are mostly talking about stuff that you can't see or otherwise know it exists (without testing) they sell a lot unnecessary "water treatment" that goes beyond water softening and includes whole house carbon filtering and reverse osmosis filters. But you sound like you just want a water softener. -Look for a water softener that uses either a Fleck (such as the 5600SXT) or a Clack (WS1) digital control valve. These brands of control valves are industry standard and are really the meat of the softener. These will recharge based on usage water. Clack valves are not sold over the internet - so they are less common. -Also, I would look for a softener that uses 10% crosslinked resin - which is more resistant to breaking down from the disinfectant in municipal water. - You want it to be sized properly for your family. -Don't consider anything that does anything other than soften the water. It shouldn't have carbon in the resin tank, for example. You don't want mixed media resin beds. If you want a carbon filter - buy one... don't try to do both in the same unit. - A good water softener is going to be $600 (Amazon) - $1000. It's not going to be $3,000. - There is no such thing as a "Salt-free" softener. If anyone tries to sell you one you need to run. If you get proposals you can post them and we would be happy to look at them with you....See MoreBest way to fix the paint on my front entrance?
Comments (4)Frustrating. If you decide you are going to replace it anyway.. any reason you can’t try a bit of sanding, wood putty, caulk and paint until you can find a someone you trust? If you lived anywhere near Orlando, Florida, we could refer a wonderful carpenter. Although these small jobs are really difficult to get help with. Hardly worth the craftsman’s time unfortunately. Sorry this happened....See MoreLori A. Sawaya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agolottamoxie
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agopaintguy22
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agolottamoxie
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocalgal59
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLori A. Sawaya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoBunny
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agomboston_gw
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocalgal59
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoFaron79
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLori A. Sawaya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocalgal59
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agolottamoxie
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agopaintguy22
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agomoonshadow
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agolottamoxie
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLori A. Sawaya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoBunny
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agolottamoxie
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoreza Taheri
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLori A. Sawaya
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojessicaml
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agopaintguy22
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoDixon Snow
8 years ago
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