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need help choosing primer for peeling paint

12 years ago

Have vinyl wall board (MHome) that was previously painted with a latex semi-gloss paint, but was not primed. It peels off very easily. What kind of primer should I use over this peeling paint and vinyl wallboard to seal it before I can drywall texture over it? I'm just wanting to seal it because my textured drywall will cover all/any imperfections. Do I use Oil based, shellac based or latex primer? Any help/info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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Comments (5)

smcdani6
12 years ago
because the wall board is vinyl and not wood I think I would steer clear of the shellac and oil based primers...

I think I would remove any of the peeling pieces... as if they are already peeling its going to be very difficult to stop them... Insul-X makes a couple of primers I have been very impressed with, one of which is AquaLock... I've used this primer on problem areas in the past and it has worked wonderfully... it is a latex primer and you can pick it up at any Benjamin Moore Retailer... if going to a big box store is your only option perhaps look at zinsser's Gardz which is specific for problem areas. I think both cans retail right around $25... and either should work...

DON'T killz it... Kilz is not at all equiped to handle this situation. Best of luck
PRO
Christopher Nelson Wallcovering and Painting
12 years ago
GARDZ.
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Thanks for the advice Faron79, but you didn't read my original post very carefully.. It says that the primer had been sitting for two weeks. It was actually 17 days. I rounded to two weeks. I'm not sure how you read that it was one week. I never wrote that. So too little drying time probably isn't the problem, nor is the lack of "delicate use" tape. Also, I never said I didn't want to sand or was "allergic" to it. I asked why it was necessary on a flat finish. I am trying to learn about the process not objecting to doing it. Also, upon closer examination of the problem, the tape is pulling off the single coat of primer PLUS the top coat of paint beneath it, leaving a very clean door underneath with what looks like a fresh coat of paint. I'm not sure what this means. If anyone wants to offer additional help that would be appreciated. To recap: Primer was left in place for 2 weeks (actually 17 days) Tape was left in place for about 30 seconds Pulling the tape off removed the single coat of primer plus the top coat of underlying paint I didn't paint the original door, or even own the house when it was painted, so I'm not sure what I am painting over I don't mind sanding or doing other work. It's possible that I did not sufficiently clean the door before applying primer. I applied the same primer to another metal interior door and it stuck with no problem, also after waiting for 17 days for it to dry -- the same length of time as the first door. This door was also cleaned by the same method and at the same time as the problematic door.
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Lori you’re probably right. We were having a TERRIBLE time with this paint and overage, and some spots looked shiny and others dull even with multiple coats and I reached out to Behr and they assured me I was using too little paint and trying to spread it too thin, so they told me to paint DIRECTLY FROM THE 5 GALLON JUG. this sounded absolutely insane to me and there’s no way I was doing that but I did saturate and try not to spread too thin Yeah, I was using Behr too. This was all me. My house (two houses ago). I did the prep and painting by myself. I'm not a paint expert. I'm a color expert. But I've been doing this for 20 years and feel like I know a little something about paint and the process. I'll never know exactly what happened. But an older painter friend of mine whom I trust more than any paint manuf. rep popped over to take a look and he's the one that told me about the "sandwich". And that I clearly applied this product too thickly. He didn't outright put the blame on the paint. Even tho I've painted with Farrow & Ball, Fine Paints of Europe, Aura, and have never had an issue. Actually used all those brands in that one house, lol! (Every brand that I talk about, I have personally used on my own house or else I don't talk about it.) Determined Behr is not a good fit for the way I paint. The final finish, 'hand' reminded me of Saran Wrap. It was eggshell. I might have a different opinion of a Behr matte finish but there are too many other paint brands and not enough houses to try them all on! lol!
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sandybeaches50
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks for you help. I'll look at both reccomendations and decide.
Faron79
12 years ago
STIX from Insl-X will do well too.

It's another "problem surface" primer. Not the cheapest, close to $40/gal., but very good!

Faron
jessicaml
12 years ago
If you're starting fresh, BIN is a shellac based bonding primer that does work great on vinyl covered wallboard. I used it in my bathroom with great results (even taping over it sooner than I should have and the paint held), and I'll likely use it before my contractor textures our walls just to be on the safe side.

In the case of peeling paint (yikes!), I think christophern had the right idea:
"GARDZ Problem Surface Sealer is a unique water-base sealer for porous and potential problem surfaces. It is formulated to deeply penetrate and dry to a hard, moisture resistant film that seals and binds down porous, chalky and crumbling surfaces, paints and texture finishes. GARDZ is recommended for: damaged drywall, new drywall, spackling and joint compound skim coats, plaster, calcimine, uncoated wallpaper, wallcovering adhesive residue, texture paint, popcorn ceilings and builders flat paint."

Zinsser also makes a product called Peel Stop. If you can't find either of these, I'm sure your local hardware store can order it. I wouldn't trust just any primer for a job like that. Since you have two problem surfaces (peeling paint and vinyl wallboard), it might be worth calling Rustoleum/Zinsser to see what they recommend. 877-35-8155

Here is a link that might be useful: Zinsser Primers

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