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sweeby

His & Her Bath - Draft One - Comments?

sweeby
14 years ago

If you all remember my earlier post about His & Her master baths as opposed to one large master bath... Well, here's Draft 1 of our proposed floor plan for your comments and suggestions. The main bedroom area is shown in yellow (15' x 18'), with closets & storage furniture in purple, and the bathroom(s) in green.

Since my husband sleeps on the left side, his bath is right behind his side of the bed, just to the right when you enter the master suite. The main open area in his bath is about 6' x 11', with a 6' x 7' shared shower separating the two sides. Her bath main area is 9' x 11' with a freestanding tub.

My main concern with this plan is the 'walk through' shower. On the one hand, I like a shared shower. I like that the shower is large, and that it works for one person or two. I also like that the doors would be glass, but the walls bordering the tub and his toilet would be tiled, so the showering person actually has a lot of privacy. (Not to mention two doors between his toilet and her grooming area.)

But at 6' x 7', the shower is (IMO) too big to be comfortable. So I put in a 'niche wall' for shampoos, soaps, etc. But would putting in that niche wall make both the shower side and 'pass-through hallway' too narrow at just under 3' each? And would it even feel right to walk through the shower to get from his bath to hers? Though that 'walk through' portion would probably only get minimally wet because of the niche wall...

So that's dilemma #1. Does the shower work? Is it a size problem that adding (or shaving) a foot or two would fix? Or does walking through the shower to get from one side to the other not work at all conceptually?

Your thoughts?

Here is a link that might be useful: His & Her Baths thread

Comments (51)

  • gwbr54
    14 years ago

    I agree with pal - altho' it certainly does look luxurious as drawn. The window placement in a few places seems odd - e.g. behind toilet and what is probably a tall storage cabinet; in closet behind what it probably a tall storage cabinet; and in the shower. We don't know the type of window planned -- if glass block or a high transom window, they might be okay.

  • natal
    14 years ago

    The placement of the tankless WH caught my eye right off the bat. Ours is mounted on an exterior wall, but if it comes on when I'm in a room near that area I can hear it. I wouldn't want it on the other side of my bed!

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  • laxsupermom
    14 years ago

    Overall, I like it. I'm not wild about his bath, mainly the proximity of his toilet to the shared shower. Men are stinky creatures even with a vent on. As a whole though, I like the plan and don't think it needs to be tightened up at all. I don't think the pass-thru hallway would be too narrow, because I don't envision it being used as a "pass-thru" area so to speak. You(or he) would grab a towel off the warmer and head out into your own bath space to ready yourselves for your day. The aisle space doesn't need to accomodate "passing ships."

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Palimpsest - Good point about the plumbing stacks and 'invisible money'. I'll talk to Hubby about that since he's the plumber. (He did like the plan, but I don't know how much time he spent with it from that perspective.) And I don't know how much the location (above a to-be-built garage) influences things. I'm trying to keep water lines away from the bed wall for sound reasons...

    Gwbr54 - The wall along the bottom of the plan is the front of the house, and faces north. (Wwarm climate, so no freeze danger.) The portions that aren't glass will be stone, and the windows will start about chest high on the second level. For consistency across the house's front elevation, we should use either two or three 6'-wide windows centered on that wall. (There isn't anyone who could see in, though we'll probably frost or obscure the glass in some way.)

    The planned storage cabinet by his toilet would be about 48" high (just below the window) -- really as much of a 'hide-the-toilet' cabinet as anything else, so not as sight-line-obstructing as it may seem.

    Natal - Thank you for chiming in about the tankless! I had no idea if it was loud or not... Since it is, it has to move! Do you know how big a footprint it needs? And what about access panels? Venting? And could it go in the garage directly below?

    LAX - Just so you know, the shower door (blue lines) would be glass, but the walls beside the toilet would be solid. Do you still see that as an issue? I am thinking overkill on the vent fan since our climate is humid.

  • natal
    14 years ago

    Sweeny, take a look at the Noritz site for more info. I'm pretty sure it could easily be installed in the garage. That would be my choice.

    Noritz

    Here is a link that might be useful: flexible installation

  • natal
    14 years ago

    I meant Sweeby.

  • terezosa / terriks
    14 years ago

    It would be my preference to have the doors to the closets be in the bathrooms. That way they become bathing/dressing rooms, and you don't need to renter the bedroom to get clothes out of the closet.

  • palimpsest
    14 years ago

    Honestly in a bathroom this size I would want both toilets in a room to themselves, and really, you should at least have a hand washing sink in there so you are not touching the doorknob with --unsanitary hands. I would try to get the toilets back to back or adjacent to each other in some plan. It may not work, but it will save some pipe.

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    Just a quick answer to your question. I do think a 36" width in the actual shower area is too narrow. Our shower area is 4' x 6½' and that's a very comfortable width.

    My niece's shower is only 3' wide and bending over to pick up dropped soap or a sponge is a tight fit.

    With such a huge bathroom, why skimp on the shower area? If you want a niche, locate it on the solid wall instead of using it as a divider.

  • palimpsest
    14 years ago

    Is the overall outline of the floorplan (the exterior walls) existing or is that up for modification?

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    Here's some changes I did to make the potties closer. Not sure if they need to be back to back. I forgot to ask my hubby before he went to bed.

    We have three bathrooms upstairs, one on the main level and one future (plumbed in but the potty is not installed yet) and each one has their own stack. We did it ourselves so it was only the cost of the the materials. My guess is it's not a biggie as long as you're not paying labor. Ours was a new build so no tearing out walls either. That could make a difference here too.

    You may notice I also pushed the wall behind the bed into the bedroom about a foot giving a little less walking area at the foot of the bed, but enlarging the shower area and walk through in the shower room too. I also put the towel warmer on the niche wall so it would be easier to reach out and grab a warm towel when finished showering. Switching around "his" bathroom and closet allowed for the side by side potties.
    {{!gwi}}

  • gwbr54
    14 years ago

    Justgotabeme - great changes! If you can find a home for the tankless water heater on an outside wall, even better. The rods and shelving in his closet would need to shift to accommodate windows, but it's a large closet for a man anyway. For her closet, I'd move the entrance into the bathroom hallway, just to keep the bedroom wall clear of doors.

    On Sweeby's original drawing, there are a number of split doors where a single door would be more conventional. It doesn't look like wall thickness has been drawn to scale, which may require shifting walls or fixtures 6-12 inches to keep pathways and doors wide enough.

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    Thanks gwbr54. I love doing this stuff. There were more changes I would have liked to make, but wanted to keep as much of what sweeby had in her original which is on the right of my changes. I know I messed with the wall width. With the new windows Paint I could have changed them, but my mood didn't allow it. Ha!

    I noticed natal mentioned putting the tankless water heater in the garage. I didn't move it, but if I would have I'd have added storage where it was.

    Not knowing what was current and what wasn't I didn't change the windows. If this is a total add on I'd have made more changes.

  • bicoastal
    14 years ago

    Hi Sweeby, you are on a roll!... kudos to Justgotabme too for doing a re-draw and being able to take the time! The biggest Plus i saw and it also super improved the look/flow of the space, was moving his closet.
    going to the original layout, which does have a bit of an awkward path:
    --His sink and his toilet placements could swap and create a way to separate his toilet. If an area (such as the shower) remains the connector, who wants to walk by the commode?
    -- In both plans: Your bathroom gives up space in that passage way or creates a sense of hallway rather than spaciousness (eg, you clear the toilet area and then get to the open feeling of a bathroom. I think this could be re-worked without making the commode feel far away. how about the back of the commode abutting his closet (your plan) or his commode room (Justgot..plan)
    -- I would like the shower and tub areas combined into one common pass-thru-able area, but that perhaps is a matter of taste. Justgotabme visually gets to this same point. In as shared area,one person could shower, one could bathe, and bathtub could also be used to shower (if a glass panel is at one end... which can double as a splash guard if the main shower is immediately contiguous) if wall mounted hand held is considered.
    ---If i have closets immediately abutting the bathroom, then i probably would like the OPTION of entering the closet from either the bedroom, or the bathroom...maybe a pocket door...or even a french pocket door look --- where one half was actually in the bedroom, and the other in the bath
    --- Justgotobme layout for side by side commodes gives the space a 'uniformity' on paper that is appealing. There is the downside that His commode requires crossing over to get to...for late nites, some folks might ask why.
    --- That said and left as drawn, you might flip both commodes so that the backs are to the bedroom without having them abutt the bedroom wall. Personally, i like walking by the commode area and not noticing it, and the flip accomplishes that because the toilet wont be as visable (if the door or whatever partial or full enclosure you choose) as you enter the bathroom. In this scenario There could be a stack of drawers on your side,(where the tankless now is) to create the sound barrier for example or a place for accessories or bathroom supplies. For his side, a small reconfig of the closet to fill in space similar to the 'tankless heater' would do it --- or move the tankless to his side if it is not noisy.
    --- if my hubby saw this plan, his immediate comment would be: why are the toilets in the most enclosed area, farthest from fresh air and can you place them near a window?

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    bicoastal, in my drawing "his" toilet is actually closer than in the original drawing. I had the same thought you did, knowing how my own hubby is, and had it right inside the door. Then I noticed someone mentioned they should be closer because of the plumbing costing more. I even woke up last night thinking of a way to make them back to back. LOL.
    The reason the toilets are in an enclosed area (water closet) is to keep them private. They'll also have their own exhaust fan so they won't need a window. Unless your hubby likes to view the outside while going potty that should take care of the need for a window. :D

  • sheesh
    14 years ago

    I also think it's essential to have access to the dressing rooms from the bathrooms, as well as from the bedroom. As big as this space is, surely pocket doors wouldn't take up too much space in either the bathrooms or the closets.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thank you so much for the comments and re-draw! That certainly does fix the toilet-stack issue and makes the shower roomier.

    To answer some more questions:

    The exterior footprint sould stay like this if at all possible. (Zoning issues) We could go a foot or so further in the 'top of the picture' direction if needed, but would prefer not to. The only thing that exists now is the footprint. The windows across the bottom of the drawing can be either two 6' wide or three 6' wide, and will start chest-high off the floor.

    From my other post that I probably should have mentioned again here -- Hubby is a professional remodeler and builder, so our labor costs are essentially free. Putting in extra plumbing lines is a PITA, but not cost-prohibitive for us.

    Nobody seems to like my original... But I want to stay open to other ideas, so I'm going to explain why I drafted it the way I did and see if that makes a difference -- then listen with that open mind, and hopefully, someone can fix the stuff you all don't like, while keeping the stuff I do. I was trying to come up with a design that:

    1) Kept the water fixtures off of the wall with the bed so a sleeping-in spouse wouldn't be awakened by the shower or toilet. (Water heater will definitely be bumped to the garage!)

    2) Put windows in the bathroom (rather than the closet) to the extent possible. (I've had problems with clothes fading from closet windows.)

    3) Separated the toilets for noise and 'preserve the illusion' reasons.

    4) Made each side feel like a spacious and logical room rather than a series of cubbies.

    On Justgottabeme's revision, I'm concerned that his bathroom has no window and the closet does. Also, the toilets have less sound privacy.

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    In my original redraw, before I'd read about the extra plumbing it would take for the toilets, all I did was move the bedroom wall up giving more room to the shower area and change the towel warmer to the back side of the niche, which was also moved a bit, for easy reach from the shower. Otherwise I like your original plans. You seemed concerned about the space in the shower walk through and that was the easiest way to solve it in my head.

    Has your hubby ever used Pex tubing instead of copper pipe? It's not code in all areas, but we were able to use it and it really saved time. Other than that what we liked most about it is you can turn off just one faucet or toilet at a time if they need work. No turning off all the water.

    Her's my original with added pocket doors. I'd give anything if we'd have put in more of them. They are never ever in the way.
    {{!gwi}}
    Oh Oops! Forgot to mention I also moved your closet door to inside your bathroom hallway and changed the layout of the rods a bit to accommodate the change.

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    I'm not a big fan of pocket doors; I prefer single entry doors into closets and bathrooms. We've had too many times when they've broken and it's been a pain to repair them.

    Looking at the new revision Justgottobe me has posted, I started thinking that maybe a walk through shower isn't the best arrangement here. If you or your husband should want to go into the other bathroom you'd have to walk through the shower to get there. And if someone is using the shower, there goes the privacy.

    Why not have a full shower enclosure with the entry door where the niche wall is. And place the towel warmer where the robe hooks are. This way, you'd have a simple pathway between both bathrooms.

    This would also give your DH more wall space on the bedroom wall because there'd be no door to open against that wall.
    I would also add a door where your vanity is so your bathing area wouldn't be in full view of your bedroom.

  • palimpsest
    14 years ago

    With regards to walking from one bathroom to the other through the shower...do you really think you would want/need to have a hallway rather than just walking through? I thought that was an interesting solution, although I would probably do without the fixed niche, make it a giant wetroom, and have a canvas curtain that could pull across part of it if desired. I don't see a need to have a true hallway. The bathrooms are essentially separate spaces with their own entrances.

    A few years ago, I saw pictures of a beach house either in in the Hamptons or Fire Island. So, think uber hip, urbane and gay. There were two guest baths back to back and the large showers shared a common wall. The common wall was glass. It was ribbed so everything was distorted, but you definitely saw skin from one bathroom in the next. Additionally there was a window from the bath into each suite (not directly from the shower) so there was layers of translucency from one end of the guest quarters to the other and to the outside windows.

    So, if two people were showering at the same time, there was some privacy, but not a lot, there was actually a fair amount of privacy throughout the rest of the suites although there was the illusion of transparency.

    I personally think this is a bit much for guests, but this is what I thought of with this shower as the intermediate zone between the two baths. For a couple, why not?

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    I guess I don't get what's so bad about the shower layout. It changes my whole mind on having individual bathrooms. The "hallway" as it's being called to me is more of where one would start to dry off where it's still somewhat warm, then putting on ones robe before heading into their own bathroom. My guess is they will use shower curtains to keep water from splashing into the drying area. You certainly wouldn't want your warmed towel to get wet. Warm or not you couldn't get dry with a wet towel.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    My thoughts on the shower / hallway / niche wall were as follows:

    - I want the shower to be roomy, but not cavernous. I thought the full 72" x 84" size in my first draft (before the niche wall) would be cavernous and probably chilly -- so too big. At 7' square, definitely too big without any divider.

    - Hence, the niche/divider wall. The idea there would be to store soaps, shampoos, razors etc. where they'd be convenient but not right in front of you. It also seems like a design opportunity to do something creative and attractive...

    - Also, a little wall there (either full height or shoulder height) would keep towels and robes dry on the far side. I originally put the towel warmer on the far wall because I envisioned an electric one, so thought the dryer wall would be better.

    - I would not envision using a shower curtain, but rather having a two-foot open area on either side, and having the niche wall provide the necessary wind & water break.

    - The niche wall also creates a 'sorta hallway' allowing passage between his side and hers. By leaving the doors open, or using sliding doors there (challenging with the plumbing, but possible with good planning) -- the hallway could be flexibly more or less open or closed depending on the homeowners' preferences.

    - I do see that space as a dry-off area, and also as an easy place to hang wet towels (heated rack plus good vent) where they won't look sloppy.

    Love the idea of textured glass Palimpsest, but not sure where to use it here...

  • bird_lover6
    14 years ago

    That's going to be quite the large master suite! Very nice. :)

    Here are my suggestions - for what they are worth. It's quite a change.

    I would keep the wet, steamy items together. I'd put your tub where the shower is currently with a lovely window over it. Then I'd put the shower directly across from it (where you're robe hooks are. I'd make your side of the bath a true "lady's" boudoir. Put your sink and counter on the exterior wall (where the tub is currently), and add a luxurious chair - perhaps a "fainting chair" where you currently have your counter. You might have to lose a foot or two in the closet, but you would definitely gain a more lavish dressing room, imo. :)

    I haven't taken the time to figure out hubby's side, but I think I would shorten hubby's closet so you could move the door into the bathroom from your bathroom over just a bit. Then, I would put his completely enclosed WC on the wall where his sink is in your plans, put his sink on the wall where his toilet is. (His toilet, his sink, your tub, and your sink would all be on that "back" wall.) You could use some of the space on your side for exercise, if you don't have a dedicated room for that and don't care for a fainting chair.

    If you move your husband's bath entry door over a couple of feet, you could make a closet on the wall where your dresser is across from the walk in closet, since you would have to take a chunk of that closet for your shower. And your WC would stay in the same general vicinity but turned sideways, possibly.

    Jo

  • lyfia
    14 years ago

    I have a couple of comments. Haven't been able to see the drawing until now so sorry for bringing up an old post.

    The way the toilet is positioned in the man's side means it will be visible from the entrance to the master if the doors are left open to the bath. I know I'm good about closing doors, but DH not so much.

    On the doors to the man's side closet same thing - if left open then you'll have a straight on view into the closet.

    Do you plan real walls on each side of the shower to avoid the view of the toilet when the lid is up?

    As for access to closet from bath - I've had both. The only time I didn't like access from the bath was when the bath was much smaller and the closet wasn't as good either so you still had to leave to find a dresser or sit down on the bed to put shoes etc. on. It also had moisture issues.

    We now have a larger bath with the closet off it and it is really nice as I never leave the bath/closet until I'm done. We have a dresser in the closet and a bench to sit down. Laundry is all in there too.

    I would avoid pocket doors to doors you close a lot as they are noisier than regular doors (even the good one's tend to be - although I love pocket doors ). I personally don't like the double doors into the bath or closet. Since you have a his/hers side the chances that you'll hit somebody with the door in there is small.

    Otherwise I really like what you did with the space. If you did access to her's closet from the bath you'd also have another wall to put the bed against, even though I know the view is out the windows, somebody may like having the option.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Here's the latest version.
    Thanks to your suggestions, we made the following changes:

    - His toilet has been moved to back to the shower wall. That wall will be tiled all the way to the ceiling on the shower side, probably to chest-high on the toilet side. The view of the toilet will be screened from the closet, shower 'hallway' and main bathroom door by a tall shallow cabinet, with the cabinet width determined by what is needed to screen the toilet view from the main door and closet door but not so wide as to block all of the light from the window.

    - The shower has been widened to 7' to allow for a 4' shower and 3' walkway. OK - slightly less, since I'm keeping the niche-wall. If we can do it legally, we'll put the towel warmer on the back side of the niche for ease of reach. But I am concerned about mixing electricity with water.

    - The closet doors have been moved into the bathroom. I don't really like how it makes Her closet so long and skinny, but agree that the convenience of dressing without waking the spouse is worth it.

    - I've changed the doors from double to a mixture of pocket and standard swing. I love double doors, but agree they were too much here -- just no reason for most of them. Should I switch to swing doors for the main bathroom doors, do you think?

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    I would change the pocket doors to swing doors. And I like this new layout.

  • lyfia
    14 years ago

    I'm with monablair on both counts.

    I assume you're still putting built ins into the closets - even though not shown, such as shelves and dresser. Make sure you put a bench too to sit down on to get dressed too. Ours is around 2ft wide only with a drawer underneath, but really nice to have. Ours is deep so I put hooks above to hang clothes on that I will wear again or I took out before showering that I will wear.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Definitely still built-ins! Our plan for the closets is to use stained plywood instead of sheetrock on the walls and nice wooden built-ins to break up the visual chaos of hanging clothes. So for that to work ideally, we'll need built-ins every 4' or so to conceal the plywood seams.

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    Don't forget to include electric outlets in the closets and also AC vents.

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    Why not use a flat trim instead of built-ins? Like paneled walls, not paneling, paneled. There's a difference. I'd share a picture, but as you can see I've exceeded my bandwidth. :(

  • palimpsest
    14 years ago

    I would put a window in your closet.

  • lyfia
    14 years ago

    A window might be nice in the her's closet, but how much sun does that side get? I'd worry about UV even with the new good windows that lets through less since you're in the south. It would help with the closet not feeling so dark, especially if you do stained. I'm sure you'd have a window covering too on it though so it would cut down on the the UV some as well.

    My old house had a closet with stained fixtures, semi-dark. I really liked the stained - nice and easy to care for as well - never showed stuff like painted does, but it was very dark in there even with good lighting. A window in the closet might help that at least during day time.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Her closet is on the west side, so yes, sun and UV is a concern. Since that's the least visible side of the house, I could put in something like a sheer pleated shade. But I have experienced clothes fading from a closet window before...

    Good point on the electric and A/C Mona. Won't forget those!

    And I'm curious about the flat trim Justgotabme. Would that be just to cover the seams in case we prefer not to do built-ins? (Personally, I prefer the more 'broken up' look of scattered built-ins to a whole long row of hanging clothes.)

  • lyfia
    14 years ago

    sweeby, I think she means doing a craftsman style paneling to cover the seams with a flat piece of trim.

    Keep in mind you can get windows with really good uv protection now - so with a shade that might be enough. I'm sure your experience like mine is with old windows.

  • sheesh
    14 years ago

    I would gladly give up enough space in that suite find a place for a washer and dryer somewhere. With all that luxury, why have to haul the laundry? Unless someone else does it....

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    Here you go.... sort of.

    Here is a link that might be useful:

  • patty_cakes
    14 years ago

    Your closet is large enough for an awesome dressing room, complete with huge mirror(3-way?)on the back wall, wall mounted lights on each side, center chandelier, and lots of drawers/shelves. I love the large bathroom, but a dressing room, that's an actual 'dressing room', would be a dream come true for me!

    I *do* love the huge walk in shower! I have a friend who 'sunk' hers(two steps down)which makes it quite luxurious, like a Roman spa. ;o)

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    Just thought of something....you are going to have the actual shower area a few inces lower than the rest of the bathroom floors aren't you? Even if you have a drain and slope the shower floor slightly you run the risk of flooding the dry off area and the rest of the flooring.

  • suero
    14 years ago

    You don't need to have the shower a few inches lower than the bathroom floor, as long as the shower floor slopes to a drain. We have a curbless shower, and the water stays in the shower.
    I do have a problem with the narrowness of the opening to the shower with the niche wall. As long as you're building a large shower, consider making it handicapped accessible. That means an opening at least 34" wide, preferably 36", with at least one fixed head and one handheld head.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    That's nice woodwork Justgotabme -- You've got me thinking about using more wood in the bath rather than tile. But I'm such a tile junkie, that's going to be a hard choice.

    A dressing room -- I like the idea, but can I really pull it off in a 7' wide closet? And if so, how? What would I need? Mirror, definitely. Built-ins for underwear, hose, accessories. Jewelry cabinet -- wanted that anyway. Place to sit.

    Chandaliers in the closet? Isn't that a code problem? I definitely want one in the main bath!

    Wheelchair accessible is a great goal, but unfortunately, the house has a raised entry compared to the main living area, and the master is upstairs. So accessible just isn't realistic for the rest of the house...

  • terezosa / terriks
    14 years ago

    The way that the closets are drawn on the plan they look more spacious than they actually are - not that 7 x 14 isn't spacious, but once you have clothes hanging on both sides there isn't that much room in the middle. You should probably draw the shelf line at 2' rather than the 1' that it is currently at. I think that I would probably have hanging space along the wall opposite the door and put built in drawers and maybe a bench on the other side. You could put a full length mirror at one end of the closet.

  • justgotabme
    14 years ago

    If I remember right the rods in a standard closet are twelve inches from the wall and the shelves are fourteen inches deep. Our walk in is only six foot wide and we have a narrow "hallway" between the rows of clothes. That extra foot would be nice, but not necessary. If I could I'd share a photo, but my Photobucket account is froze for the next few days. I exceeded my bandwidth. :( Promised myself I'd stay away from groups so I could work on my Ladies Parlor, but all I've gotten done was two floor plans and hung three new WTs. Taking a break while the furnace is running and making me sweat.

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    I was just thinking a 4" drop would prevent any possible flooding into the dry off area, especially with a towel warmer on the wall in there. I also have found that filling the shower area with a depth of an inch or so of water helps with rinsing any cleaning solutions off the tile and into the drain.

    Would this work for your closet?

    You could have 2 builts in (18" to 24" deep) across from each other. In the middle of the outside wall you could have bench seating with high cabinet storage that wraps around to the top of the built ins. Could you have a mirror on the inside of your closet door? That way it wouldn't take space away forom your hanging space or your dressing area.

    You never mentioned the ceiling height in your closets. If they're 10-12 feet you could get a lot of storage if you go vertical.
    If you use 4' of your closet depth for a dressing area, you'd still have a 7 x 10 closet.

    {{!gwi}}

  • patty_cakes
    14 years ago

    Thought you would like the idea, sweeby. Yes, a chandlelier in the closet~I don't know anything re:a code for a closet. A contractor or electrician won't be doing it, just my son-in-law. As for what you will need, lots and LOTS of storage for everything you want to go in drawers and on shelves. I have my 2 dressers(black w/gold edges)in my closet, and will continue to build shelves and paint to match, all the way to the ceiling for things I don't use often, or out-of-season clothing such as sweaters/bulky sweatshirts. I have a vanity i'm planning to use, and will paint it to match the dressers also. I'll wallpaper the walls too, and have all matching bins/baskets/hatboxes on the shelves.

    It's not just a *vision*, I did this with the MB closet in my last home. I think it helped sell the place, especially with my clothes all color co-ordinated. LOL ;o)

  • terezosa / terriks
    14 years ago

    Although the shelving is usually 14 - 16 inches deep, it is the clothing hanging on the rods that will stick out almost two feet. I just measured in my closet, and from the back wall to the edge of the hanging clothes is about 23 inches. We had 6 feet of width in our old closet with clothes hanging on both sides, and it did work, but I just wanted to point out that it won't be as spacious looking as it seems as drawn on the plan - not chandelier sized at least.

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I measured our closets, and Terriks is right about the clothes taking up a full 24" on each side -- so enough for a 3' aisle down the middle. Fine for a closet, but not exactly luxurious. At 9 or 10 feet wide, it could be, but 7' works well for the rest of the room. And unfortunately, only 8' ceilings. We might be able to do 8'6" or possibly 9', but any more would mess up the exterior architecture...

    Honestly, that was the reason I had the doors in the bedroom to start with -- because I didn't want a long skinny 'tunnel-of-clothes' effect in the closet, and I thought a U-shaped section on either side of a central doorway would be better-looking. I know the judicious use of built-ins can help alleviate that long-skinny look...

    OK, so a place for all of my accessories -- shoes & boots, handbags, jewelry, scarfs, lingerie, hats. A dirty clothes hamper. Step stool. Place to sit. Full length mirror.

    Should the dressing area be near the front of the closet? Or near the back?

  • patty_cakes
    14 years ago

    Sweeby, I only had my clothes hanging on 1 side, which gave me more open space~double hanging rods. I had my vanity to the right of the door, since the wall sort of 'indented' on that side, and was narrower. In your closet I would have the mirror on the back(width)and the vanity on the opposite end(right of door), so you will have to remove hanging rods, and add shelves above the vanity. Do you want to put your dresser(s) in the closet? It's very convenient to have *all* your clothes already in the area you'll be dressing in. ;o)

  • yborgal
    14 years ago

    I remeasured my husband's closet and it's 7 x 12. This is the arrangement he has, without the mirror, and he has lots of space to dress and walk around in.

    Normally I'd stick with a single door, but in your case I'd use full size cafe swinging doors, each 18" wide.
    The storage cabinet across from the entry is 20" deep and 50" wide. It has a double bank of drawers with matching open shelves above. The flat surface between the shelves and drawers serves as a landing spot and would be perfect for jewelry boxes or whatever. I suppose it most resembles a hutch. I can post a pic if you like.

    The shelving to the left of the entry is open and measures 14" x 48". It's perfect for sweaters, tees and with organizer boxes would be wonderful for purses and accessories.

    The bench to the right of the door is actually a hamper for dirty clothes with a padded top for seating.

    If you wanted a wall hung mirror it could be placed in the center of the far wall so you could have a full view of yourself.

    Of course, an 8'- 10' wide closet would be wonderful, but a closet your size offers great opportunity for a nice dressing area.

    As I said, my husband's closet works very well for him and I'd be very happy if it were mine. (Mine's much larger, though, and I'm not trading.)

    {{!gwi}}

  • sweeby
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks Mona! I like the idea of a seat/hamper and am wondering about putting wheels on the bottom and maybe even a stair tread or two so it could also function as my step stool.

    I think what I really need to do is the same thing I did with my kitchen:

    1) Clean out the stuff I don't even use and probably won't ever use. (Does that include my "skinny clothes"?)

    2) Take an inventory to identify how much space I need for my most-used items, least-used items, and in-between items.

    3) Plan storage space accordingly.

    Guess I'll head over to the organizing forum to see what they say...

  • patty_cakes
    14 years ago

    For a 3-way mirror, i'll be installing a large, decorative mirror on 3 flat hollow-core doors. The center mirror will be attached to the wall and the two side ones will be attached to the the center one w/large piano hinges. Just sharing my idea.........;o)

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