Very timely! I just read this and I think you should read it too... this is from an expert faux finisher, and I'd been reading the other articles on the site and enjoying them when I stumbled across this. If you go to the Therma-Tru site they even have a video of them doing it, plus color charts, and a store locator (it's at my Lowe's). It doesn't sound or look difficult. BUT I would say examine the wood graining on your door first, and be sure you like it... and that it looks like real wood would look. I was out looking at my garage doors today and they are grained side to side -- the whole door -- which isn't right. So if I do them I may well override the embossed graining on the panel edges. As far as which wood tone to use, please post a picture. Are you repainting your house exterior? Or just doing the door? Here is a link that might be useful: Woodgraining a fiberglass door

Check out as many options as you can. We are looking for an exterior door for our kitchen remodel. Since it goes to the back yard and deck we want a full lite door with shades between the glass. Not an easy thing to find. Of course we checked Pella-big bucks. For us, there are actually two different options-exterior door with full lite or single french style patio door. The more I look, the more options I come up with. Check lumber yards, window and door stores and the big box stores. We are also planning to have the exterior trim clad in aluminum so that we don't have the maintainance of wood with a fiberglass door. From what I have heard, it is probably worth the extra charge to have the door factory finished as well, especially if it is fiberglass with a wood look. Haven't ordered anything yet but I think we are getting close to making a decision.

"1) The caulk between the threshold and the brick has some gaps after partially drying - this one seems like an obvious problem that the installer should immediately address. See the picture below" If he followed the manufacturer's instructions, the caulk doing the work wouldn't be visible, as it would be under the threshold. If you can slide a thin blade under the threshold easily, it probably isn't there and the caulk you see is only topical. I looks a bit sloppy to me. "2) The installer added 2 pieces of wood trim on the inside - I have no idea why this was added..the only thing I can think of is that without this extra trim the strikeplate may stick out further? See pics. The problem with this wood trim is it does not match up smoothly with the vertical trim that it meets on top of the door....maybe when painted I would not notice." Are you sure you meant "vertical trim" and not "horizontal head casing"? I believe this trim is to cover where the new pre-hung jamb meets the sidelight jambs. "3) When closed, there is pressure on the door bolt/lock. In other words when I turn the handle the door pops open to relieve the pressure. If I swing the door close (not excessive force), the lock often will not catch. Is this something that should be expected to subside over time...or does it sound like the strikeplate/locking mechanism is not properly aligned? also only the very end part of the locking mechanism(bar? not sure of the formal name) actually sits in the strike plate." You want a new door to seal tightly; the gaskets will break in eventually. The deadbolt should throw completely into the pocket in the jamb. "4) There is a very narrow widening of a small piece of trim that runs parallel to the threshold on the floor. This seems very minor, but was still noticeable to me. See picture." I can't see this. "5) The screw caps from one of the sidelites were missing. The installer said they would return to install the missing caps. However, it it expected for the installer to sand down any caps that jut out or is that not typically included?" This is a tough call. You want a happy customer, but jeezeâ¦. "6) There are some other areas where there the caulk does not seem well applied. I've included an example where there is a a small missing spot right in the corner. Is this sloppy work or nothing with which to be concerned?" This guy flunks caulking. "7) Lastly in one bottom corner, where the new door frame meets the existing houseframe, there is a small amount of wood rot (softness in about a 1 inch section of the house trim/support). The installer informed us that they would replace an rot under the old door so I would expect them to replace this too." It could be consolidated with epoxy, but I can't imagine a mega-store installation including such a thing. Here is a link that might be useful: Door Installation

I would paint the fiberglass French doors white to match the trim and the other door (pantry?). It would be difficult to try to make all trim match the same gray color when they are different materials.