There is no standard sheen. It differs from product to product. If the CC sheen is too much gloss, try the Pro Classic Satin. It's just above eggshell.

Michael

Michael,

Thank you so much for the reply.

Do you think Pro Classic Satin will work well on a melamine surface? Is it self leveling like the CC?

This will be a brand new door glass paned with mullions:

Also, any suggestions on primer I should use (if I should) and a brush that would work well in this application? I bought a 1-1/2" Corona Chinex brush for the CC but I will get something else if you think it will make a difference or be easier to work with. In case you haven't guessed, I am a total novice painter!

Thank you for all of your advice!

Debra :o)

Ok - checked on SW website and they say it's self levelling. They also say that to paint cabinetry I should use the alkyd. Do you think this is true or can I just use the waterborne acrylic latex? (Remember, this is on melamine cabs.)

Thanks again!

The Corona Chinex brush works well with all paints.

Sand the melamine with a 180 grit sanding sponge.
Prime with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1 2 3 waterbased primer.
Lightly sand smooth if needed.
Apply two coats of Pro Classic Acrylic Waterborne.

The clerk at SW isn't telling you that the alkyd paint will yellow over time and that the alkyd is prone to mold and bacteria in kitchens and baths.

Michael

Thanks! I'll try it!

Debra

Michael (and anyone else interested in chiming in)-

OK - I think I'm getting there but just need a little tweaking of my method ---

When I returned the Cabinet Coat - the sales guy sold me Muralo Ultra Waterborne in eggshell. After I left that store - I went to SW and picked up the Pro Classic Satin.

I tried both to test and compare(after priming, of course). The SW went on very smooth and leveled out really well but the finish was a little more matte (eggshell) than I was hoping for. The Muralo's finish is the perfect satin - exactly what I want - but I see brush strokes. It just doesn't look as flawless as the SW Pro Classic does. (I even lightly sanded between the 1st and 2nd coats). I'm using the Corona Chinex Ryan brush. I checked around for the Elder & Jenks GenX brush but no one seems to have them. Any other technique or tool suggestions for how I can get the Muralo to lay down better and elimate brush marks?

I know I sound like I'm being nit picky but I'm trying really hard to match to an existing cabinetry line I will be using. Hopefully, all of this effort will be worth it in the end.

Thanks again!

Believe it or not the primer can have some effect on the gloss. Try Pro Classic waterborne, Latex X-Tender and a primer called UMA. UMA has great holdout and will give a consistent finish to the ProClassic.Add 4-6 oz of the Latex X-Tender per gallon of Pro C and you will see the brush strokes flow out.

I love Muralo flooring products, get awesome results on concrete. But like you I tried their latex paint on a piece of furniture and got brush strokes too (I'm a rabid CC fan but thought I'd try Muralo since it came in the dark color I wanted and CC didn't.)

I'm actually surprised your CC came out like a semi-gloss. Mine has always been much closer to what I'd consider a satin sheen, like a nicely buffed egg ;)

terrence67-

Believe it or not, I actually did prime with XIM Uma water based Bonder at the suggestion of the paint guy (it came in a quart whereas the Bullseye was a gallon and i don't need that much).

Moonshadow-

Buffed egg would be nice but unless my version of a buffed egg is different from yours - that's not what the cc looked like. I probably wouldn't categorize it as the glossiest of semi glosses but it was certainly shinier than what I was looking for (and what I consider satin). In all fairness, the other thing that I should mention is that I think the paint was damaged. It had lots of - shall I say - "crap" - floating around. They mixed at the store, I mixed at home but there was stuff stuck to the underside of the lid and it all was in the finish. I know this happened to someone else on the forum and they picked it all out. I wasn't about to do that. Anyway - my point is that perhaps my batch had an "off" finish because there was something wrong with it. Maybe I should've given it another shot with a new batch.

Well, I did do another experiment last night. I bought a different brush at the suggestion of a different paint guy (who also gave me some painting tips). It is a Corona Vegas with Tynex Nylon bristles. The SW Pro Classic went on pretty much the same - very smooth - no brush strokes - but still pretty matte - no change in sheen. The Muralo Ultra Satin had noticeably less brush strokes but still not free of them like the SW was. I think the brush was a definite improvement. I'm going to keep practicing my technique with the Muralo. I would like to go with that if I can minimize the brush strokes to an acceptable level.

Thanks for all the responses. Hearing about your experiences really helps - not to mention the great information and expertise that's been shared. Please feel free to keep it coming!

Thanks again,
Debra :o)

I am painting my cabinets with Muralo Ultra Satin right now. It takes some practice, but for me the brushstrokes disappear with:

1)enough paint applied quickly (must be thick enough but watch for sags on vertical surfaces). One of the pros on this site (can't find the post) has said that amateurs often simply do not put on enough paint to avoid brush marks - I found this to be the case personally and once I figured out how much to put on, it came out great.

2)some thinning with water, given the very dry conditions I was/am painting in - I used a little less water than they recommended for spraying

I used the Corona Chinex brushes - they are great.

Another key is to trust the paint to some degree. After a certain amount of time, you just can't touch it. This will vary with temp and humidity. However, some areas that look like they may form a sag actually dry smooth. If it has been more than a few minutes, leave it alone and see how it dries.

You should see the paint shedding water (looks like very wet spots form as it dries). If you do not have enough paint on, this doesn't happen as well and seems to be a critical part of the leveling process.

Given some of the comments about sags with CC, I suspect it may be a little thinner out of the the can the Muralo, although I have never used it. Don't be afraid to dilute the Muralo with a little water - I used a spare quart can to shake well before applying.

Pete

I actually think I was putting it on too thick (it says to put it on generously - but I think I overdid it). Anyway, I put it on thinner than before and with the vegas brush and it come out level and smooth.

A little more practice and I think I've got it! Although painting a flat solid door is one thing -- painting a glass mullioned door is another! We shall see. I'll post the doors once I've finished and you guys can be the judge! :o)

Thanks again for everyone's input. It has really helped me figure this out and I appreciate it!

Debra