I personally have tried several methods of rooting rose cuttings, but the best way I have tried is our Great grandparents method by using canning jars. What I do is usually in the fall ( I don't like to try in the spring because it gets too hot quickly here and the rose will suffocate in the jar ) is I take a small cutting that's no wider than a pencil and I do use a rooting powder on the bottom, stick it in the ground and put a canning jar over it. I usually put a few rock around the jar so the wind will not blow it over, and by spring, ta-da a new rose has rooted! I just would not plan on moving it until the next spring though since it's roots are still very tiny and easy to break if you dig it up.

I got one by accident. It was covered with disease in my cold and damp climate. The orange color was quite pretty. I was able to send the plant to a gardener in a warmer, dryer climate. I do think that the color is not so good in direct, bright sun. I thought the ones I used to see on the West Coast were rather garish.

Hi Cindy In zone 4, you do want to protect the rose but some of the strategies you mention may do more harm than good. In no zone should you put plastic around a rose (at least not on the first layer), as it would trap moisture and cause a lot of mildew and other damage to the rose beyond the cold. The idea is that whatever you put around the rose has to have good air circulation, so the styrofoam rose cones are also not recommended. If you want to wrap it, I'd recommend something like burlap that can breathe. I've seen some experienced rose people put bubble wrap around the edge of their rose beds but not around each individual rose. As a new rose grower, I wouldn't recommend that. You also should leave whatever canes you have on the rose and not cut them down in fall, even though you'll see some rose guides say you're supposed to do that. The reason you don't is that the winter is going to kill off a lot of the growing parts on the end of the canes no matter what you do, so if you have longer canes there's a better chance of some of the rose cane surviving. If you wrap the rose, you can take down the supports and lay the canes down on the ground to make it less affected by the wind. As climbers get bigger over the years I don't bother with that, but you could try it. I use the leaf bags you mention, but I don't put them on top of the rose but stand them around the edges of the rose, like creating a mini down coat. The idea is to protect the canes from the worst of the winter winds and provide some insulation so it doesn't have wild temperature swings from cold to warm till it's ready to wake up in the spring. You can fill the inside of the leaf bag circle around the roses with something natural that stays dry over the winter, like OAK leaves (other leaves get mushy and won't work) or pine needles. You probably have what is called a grafted rose, which means that Joseph's Coat is attached to the roots of another rose that you don't want to grow. There is a knobby bit at the bottom of the rose where all the canes grow from that is the graft, and that's the most important thing to protect over the winter. The rest of the canes can die and the rose you want will regrow if the graft is still alive in spring. If the rose mysteriously turns into a red rose, then it's the rootstock that is growing, and the Joseph's Coat rose would then have died. After all that, Joseph's Coat isn't really all that hardy even in my zone, and it has died several times even in zone 5 with a lot of protection, so don't consider it a failure if it dies. Go ahead and stand some leaf bags around it and wrap it in burlap maybe, and see how it goes. Do this AFTER the ground freezes (around here no earlier than Thanksgiving) or the mice may move in and chew on your rose all winter. You want the rose to get good and cold so it goes to sleep first. Snow is excellent protection for roses so a good layer of snow cover is the best strategy to protect a rose if you can get it. If this rose doesn't survive well for you, log back on here for a question about climbing roses that will do better for you in zone 4. Cynthia

I'm not familiar with this particular climber but the good news is that is IS young so less is morel! The most important thing I see is that you need to get some of those canes growing more toward a horizontal. See that cane on the far left? I'd pull it as close to horizontal as you can. The idea is once you have it designated as a main cane anything growing off of it is a lateral and should be pruned. It looks like that same cane has a lateral that's coming off to the right a foot or so off the ground. You have a choice: you can decide it's a lateral and prune it off at 6-12 inches OR you can decide to treat it like another main cane and pull it horizontal too. (On a young bush I'd probably make it a main cane.)Then prune off anything growing off of it. Really, at this stage you are trying to organize more than you are trying to prune. In general I'd try to get this rose to grow more in a fan shape so that the canes that you keep are at a 45° to 90° degrees. You don't get lateral breaks from an upright cane and blooms come off laterals--more laterals more blooms. After pulling the left one to the left, see if you can't pull the canes on the right to fan out to the right. It's alright if a "main cane" doesn't originate from all the way down at the base, but it would be helpful if it was coming from the bottom third of the plant. Someone posted a link to a way to attach canes to walls that looks pretty cool. I've never used it but it might be something that works for you in trying to get those canes horizontal. https://sugru.com/home-diy/no-drill-diy-garden-trellisHope that helps...