Hi Rhome,
Lacquer-paints are nice, BUT the durability just isn't up there for cabinet use anyway...
It would do OK, but there's "tougher" choices.

Not to discourage you, but getting good/even color-coat(s) SPRAYED on cabinets takes a practiced hand/technique/good equipment.
The new ACE Cabinet/Door/Trim paint is tintable into a "Neutral" (dark colors) base. Like Cabinet-Coat, it does require a longer "leveling" time between coats.
>>> This is a nice, low-odor "hybrid"...Latex/Alkyd.
>>> It is a Semi-gloss sheen though.

Hopefully Michael will post with his Impervo advice. He's applied a lot of this/similiar stuff!

Faron

Thanks, Faron. DH has done a lot of lacquer spraying, and has pretty decent equipment, for that use, anyway, so am thinking his spray technique may beat my brush technique. :-)

Hi - I just had terrific results spraying acrylic paints on drawerfronts and some very tall cabinet/closet interiors. I used a Wagner FineCoat HVLP setup, which is a homeowner type system that I bought reconditioned for $75. I couldn't believe how good the results were. I used BM Regal interior acrylic in pearl finish for the cabinet interiors, and some leftover SW *exterior* Duration paint for the drawerfronts. In both cases I sprayed primer first, which was tinted BM Freshstart. I was concerned that 100% acrylic wouldn't spray well. This wasn't the case. For both projects, I first added about 20% Floetrol to the paint. Then I used the viscosity cup that came with my system to thin the paint with water, until the cup emptied in 30 seconds. With the Floetrol and the water, I about doubled my original paint volume. So given this, my coats were thin. But even so, I covered the drawerfronts nicely with 1 coat of primer and 1 of paint. For the closet interiors (which were roughed up melamine-type covered MDF), I used 2 coats of primer and 1 of paint. In both cases I poly-ed over the finished job to protect it, using a gel poly on the tall verticals of the cabinet and a waterbourne floor poly (Mega by Bona) on the drawer fronts. The paint sprayed on the drawerfronts came out smooth, requiring just a light buff to get out dust particles before polying. The cabinet interiors, being deep and narrow, I guess had more dried overspray land on on the wet paint, and so felt rough after drying. So I sanded lightly after each coat to smooth them out--each coat required less sanding. All in all, I was very pleased with spraying acrylic paint and for me it came out much much better than rolling or brushing would have. It is a completely smooth professional finish.

Katie

I'm not bragging, but I can spread Satin Impervo with a brush and it looks sprayed..*grin*

Of course, I didn't learn that overnight. :)

A lot of pros will spray the Impervo because that's their trade. If you choose to spray, follow the tech sheet for spray tip and thinning requirements if any.

And as Faron says, it will require some practice to get it right, especially in a burgandy color.

I have seen sprayed cabinets that have the appearance of being sprayed through a screen. Wrong tip, too fast movement, shadows by too light or too heavy overlap, etc.

Perfect practice makes for perfect results.

Michael

I bet you can, Michael! I will have my dh practice and practice before doing doors.

Thanks to you, and to Katie for weighing in.

I hope you check back, because I had one more question. The paint clerk at the local store that carries BM said he couldn't tint any primer close to my burgundy, only to a light to medium gray. I remember reading that girlwithaspirin used a primer tinted close to her BM Bittersweet to do her kitchen cabs, which was a very dark brown, definitely not light or gray. Is this guy not up on his stuff, or do I need another brand of primer to get a deeper color? Or will (I hope) the gray he mixed me do okay? (It's the BM Fresh Start Alkyd Enamel Underbody that was recommended on the Satin Impervo can...But it also says the primer should be tinted as close to the paint color as possible.)

Thanks again.

I'll defer to Michael here, but "Optically", a med.-gray is the best background color. If you were painting bright Lemon-yellow cabinets, then gray would be too dark.
You'd have to use a yellow-undercoat.

I can't remember what it's called, but I thought BM had a "deeper-tint" primer. Zinsser has it's 123 "Deep-tint" latex primer! ACE has one as well, along with C2's deep-tint.

Another reason I'd use Gray...
* With a ton of colorant (meaning a Burgundy primer), the primer dries slower, and wouldn't sand quite as well.
* Gray obviously has less colorant, and is much more opaque than a ton of Magenta colorant.

Waiting for Michael to weigh-in now...

Faron

You're making me feel better about the gray, Faron, thanks. There is a guy at the same store where I buy the BM paint who can explain all that to me, but he wasn't the one I dealt with this time. The man I got stuck with has made mistakes for me before. For my cream color, I got matching primer.

The gray is ideal for burgandy.

Michael

Thanks again...and good thing, since I already used some.. ;-)