The only problem is that you may think you have all the residual paste removed, but you don't. This is especially true for a DIY'er that doesn't remove wallpaper that often. If you don't get all the residual paste off and then paint over that paste with a normal water based primer, you are going to have problems down the road with your primer and topcoat crackling away. The safest thing to do is just use the Gardz. It locks down the residual paste and guarantees that you will not have problems later on. The Gardz will also serve as your primer because it seals. I would use it on the entire wall surface because if you just apply it to the top where the border was you may get some flashing.

Karen: which technique are you doing? Textured wallpaper over old wallpaper? Or one of the others? Rereading my post (after getting some sleep) it reads more like I am asking about texturing with drywall compound (like imitating venetian plaster, or a tuscan stucco look). PLEASE come back and tell me how it went! I have seen the paper bag technique done on home improvement shows. ItÂs actually simpler. Dipping in poly would be very messy and sticky. You adhere the paper with latex glaze or acrylic matte medium. Then cover with the same clear liquid to seal it in before painting. My hesitation with doing that is if someday down the road you didnÂt want such a texture, you could NEVER get it off. The entire room would have to be skimcoated by someone with the skills to get it really flat and smooth. I donÂt think I want to go that route. At least with drywall compound texturing it could be sanded off smooth easily.

I would pick up some of Sherman Williams wallpaper remover. Put some into a small squirt bottle and fill with warm/hot water. Spray an area maybe 22" wide and the length of the wall. Spray it well, dab with a sponge to keep it from running. WAIT 15 MINUTES! Just walk away. Spray again. WAIT 15 MINUTES---do not be tempted to peel. Spray again and start to life a corner. it should come off fairly easily. Use a putty kife to assist but be carefull not to take chunks out of the walls. Once done, spray again, sponge down to get residue off. Move to another section. Once you have a feel for how well its going you may want to do more than one section ata a time. When its all removed, clean the walls with a TSP solution and prime before painting. It sounds like a lot of work but once you are in a rythym its not too bad. I think if you had used one of those 'wall claws' to puncture a million little holes through the original wall paper, most of the backing would have come off with the top layer. The key to the wall claw is making the holes. Once you think your done...go back and 'claw'it again. I have also found tapping a knife blade along the ceiling or anywhere the claw can not get to, to be a help. Say a little prayer that your walls are in good shape once you hit drywall. We found ours were neither painted, primed or sized and needed to be skim coated in one room and patched in another. Thats where it gets messy with dust. You may also use a garden sprayer to soak the walls but I have found the spray bottle to be more controlled and less messy. Plus keeping the solution WARM assists in the removal process. GOOD LUCK!

In the 40's the paint "may" have been lead based. But surely under the paper is not the original paint....surely in 75 years the house has been painted....and in the mid 50's latex paints became usual for flat wall finish paint. Take the paper off.....and in all the paper removal I have done, unless I damaged the dry wall, and in a house of the 1940's most likely the walls are real plaster....and there will be no need for Kilz. Just paint....why do you think you will be dealing with raw plaster?