Thanks so much for all the great ideas and opinions. Here is a little more info. It's actually all one piece and not a top and bottom and there were never doors on it. There is a label somewhere that says "True Grand Rapids-Cabinet Making Certified" although they advertised it as being in excellent condition it's definitely not. I like the examples that were posted and my family room has a side table and coffee table that are distressed off white (Broyhill Attic Heirloom series) but the wall behind it will be a tan color when the drywall is finished in a week or two, the floor it will sit on will be honey oak and the chairs around the table are black. My table actually matches the color of the piece now but I always have a table cloth on it these days (I've got 4 kids). I've kicked around the idea of going barn red but either black, off white, or red, I'm just not sure the formal piece will look right going rustic although some of the examples above have that same formal look and they painted up very nice. I'll try to post pictures of the surroundings tomorrow. Thanks again for the ideas and opinions.

If you want to see photos of finished projects like this, the Kitchens forum here has a finished projects blog loaded with photos and products used. Go here: Finished Kitchens Blog At the far right under "Categories" click on Cabinets. At the next screen you'll see categories for cabinet manufacturers, then below that wood species, and if you scroll below that (about 1/3 down the page) you'll see a "Cabinet Finish" column. Click on "Glazed", lots of nice photos there! ;) Although I've not done this project myself yet, I've glazed other projects. You can use pre-tinted glaze (I've not tried them yet, so can't attest to how well they work). Companies such as McCloskey makes a wide range of pre-tinted glazes that you can choose from. I've seen this line at Lowe's, HDepot, and independent stores (not always the full line, depends on the store). Also Lowe's website shows their American Traditions line has a wide range of tinted glazes. Whenever I've used glaze on projects I've purchased clear glaze and added it to the paint color of my choice (be sure to follow instructions on can for proper mixing ratio). You get much more control over the final color that way. For antiquing I generally use a color that is a deep brown (such as in the raw umber family). You can 'thin' it with the glaze till it suits your taste, anywhere from dramatic to a soft haze. Glaze extends the working time of paint. So keep in mind the more paint you add to the glaze the less work time you have. Working with glaze is really simple, but your cabinets shouldn't be the guinea pig for tinkering with ratio that will give the final look ;) So strongly recommend practicing your technique and different ratios of paint-to-glaze on a piece of painted scrap wood/scrap drywall till you get the look you want and a feel for how to work with it. I found a little 'how to' video here (although the purple cabinets are perhaps not the best example, it shows you the process step by step )

A couple of things to know about true milk paint (powder that you mix with water) and chalk paint - neither one of them will add any protection to the piece on their own - they will both need to be top coated with a protective finish. Adding that protective finish will alter the color of your piece - for red it will darken the color significantly. The most often used topcoat for both is wax which will give a beautiful hand rubbed finish but doesn't offer a lot of protection. As you will be using this as an end table/charging station keep that in mind. As you are going over raw wood and not a previously finished piece it is not likely you will see chipping of the milk paint - possible but not likely. True milk paint when applied will go on very thin ( it is water after all) and will show variations in the color on the piece. Not a bad thing if you expect it. If you intend to sand some of the paint back (shabby look) both chalk paint and milk paint are super easy to sand back and don't gum up your sandpaper. Chalk paint is more 'sticky' and primer is considered optional. With true milk paint you wouldn't want to prime - need to keep the wood pores open for the paint. General Finishes Milk Paint (premixed in a can and not a true milk paint) behaves more like 'regular' paint. Adding a protective topcoat (if you choose to) will not alter the color. Finish is a satin look. Check out the General Finishes site for lots of tips and ideas for application and glazing. You can also search for a dealer in your area - there are lots of them. For GF Milk Paint and regular trim/cabinet paint like BM/SW/etc you really should use a primer to ensure a trouble free finish.

(Frankly, I think the most off-thing next to that mantle is the TV.. the rest, -agree about it being a bit disproportional and all..would leave it anyway won't paint black the area around the firebox-I think will make the firebox look unnaturally high.. maybe to paint the whole wall a darker color. maybe consider a row of tiles. maybe live with it for now as is until figured out don't have problem with the color of bookcases..if they're a bit distressed though then I'd worry a bit more generally, I like the colors together. that's the finishes that might seem strange next to each other. but i can't see the finishes well i'd try to work with it. it's not perfect for that firebox etc yet it elevates the room anyway in a way no simple white mantle would now it seems like the other furnishings are really surprised to see it:) but in a good way. I kinda feel them talking.. sometimes things have to be right. and sometimes for them to be loved is enough. and even better same as with people (but with less grave consequences LOL)