I know this is an old thread, but I faced the same issue: surface mounted medicine cabinet 4 7/8" deep. I found a Kohler Tone 3-light vanity fixture Model #31770-SCO3- BNL (brushed nickel one) that was perfect. It extends 10 3/4 inch out, but it's only 6 inches high. It was beautiful, but after ordering from Lowe's, it went from delivery 6/12 to delayed to out of stock. Damnitall. Whoever reads this...it will be available in October, 2023. I talked to a Lamps Plus clerk who said the entire bulb must fully extend out past the medicine cabinet to avoid all shadow. This Kohler model does that. I had to totally switch gears to a fixture that pointed up. I hope it will work to provide enough light. I'm not as thrilled about it, but you have to be practical to get the bathroom remodeled in time. I hope this is helpful. Good luck to all who face this issue!

I have the same issue. The problem with the over the cabinet lights (two or three) is they are not designed to protrude enough from the wall to provide direct light, in fact the cabinet will likely cause a shadow line. Our cabinets come out 4 - 4 1/2 inches. I have a three bulb light I like and am thinking of having someone make a box that will match the cabinets. The box would be the same depth, surface mount, wood, stain and design as the cabinets... Has anyone seen lights that are designed for a surface mount medicine cabinet that do not look like the cheap exposed bulb or florescent variety?

I don't have any good up to date photos of my kitchen which is (shudder) STILL a work in progress, but to summarize- I did keep my oak cabinets (I loved them when I picked them out in 1990 and I still love them.)... removed soffits, added crown molding, changed hardware, changed countertops to dark granite, added pendant lighting, and did a tile backsplsh(porcelain tile but it looks like travertine). I am waiting on undercab lighting and the BIG wait is figuring out wall color. I will try to find a pic or two but they really dont do it justice, it looks much better in person. honestly.Oh and I think we may have the same range and microwave. I am a big believer in updating and not ripping out if it will work. I think this will be more common thanks to the economy and I think it is wonderful... Didnt want this thread to fall off. If I can locate even a lousy pic I will post it later.

earth_pal, I would appreciate a chance to ask you about your kiln installation. You don't have an email link on GW, but could you possibly send me an email via my GW email link? Alternatively, I'm going to start a thread in the pottery forum in the next day, in case you ever check in there. davidro1, I've sent you an email. Thanks. riverspots, I've looked at the total BTU output because that matters for venting and heating up the room. I see your point that the temperature of each adjacent combustible object matters for ignition. Those temps won't get anywhere near that high as there will be nothing combustible within at least a couple of feet (other than my legs). The nearest cabinet will be appx 24'' away. If I did put a ''landing space'' counter next to the range, it would be a small steel filler table. For reference, ignition temp of wood is >420F and of grease/oil is appx 700F. brickton, growlery's point that smooth surfaces are easier to keep grease-free makes a lot of sense to me. The brick would work for a woodstove, but (from the research I've done) you still need concrete board/fire board and an air gap behind that.