Move the house to a warmer climate:) LOL
I practically lived with a calk gun in my hands for a month in my one old house. After I was done the windows looked great and when the wind blew the curtains didn't move, but the darn heating bill was still the same. I had the outside of the windows done too. The house had been insulated...well the walls anyway. I never got around to insulating the basement ceilling or pulling up the floor in the attic to check there. I'm sure that would have helped. I had the furnice checked every fall. I used rope calk on the windows where the sash met the frame. Draft gard in front of the 150 yr old front door- we always use the back door so this wasn't a problem. Plastic on the side windows of the front door. Kept the heat set at 64c and wore a lot of fleece. Used the wood stove as much as possible. Closed off rooms that were not necessary. Also prayed to mother nature to be kind. In the end I got to enjoy a heating bill of about $400 per month for a 1600 sq ft house. I don't want to even imagine what it would have cost if I hadn't done all of this stuff.
Foxy.

Adding insulation to the attic will make a big difference. put enough insulation in to get it up to the recomended R value for your area of the country. sealing the cracks around the windows will help also. Get outlet and switch box insulators. they are cheap and will seal air leaks on the outside walls. Before you insulate the attic seal any openings into the attic from the heated space below. also put weatherstripping around the attic door. The inside storm windows will help also. They also make a new type of caulk that peels off to seal windows. I bought some because the windows in this house are old aluminum framed windows that seal poorly. not used it yet but it should work fine.

The thing you want to accomplish is sealing all air leaks in the house. An easy way to find them is take a incense stick on a windy day and put it around anywhere you expect a leak to see where the smoke drifts.

Who isn't thinking about the heat watching the fuel prices.
I too have a very old home ~100 years. It was in very bad shape when we bought it 7 years ago. My first heating bill was for $500 and that was Oct 97.

We too have steam heat.

I've managed to knock 10% off the cost of the heat each year and keep the house cozy. It is 2500 sq ft. I just started to compile what I've done in a web page.

The first year we put insulation in the basement ceiling.

Every year I caulk, this year more extensively.

Before we replaced the windows I used the rope caulk. All the way around each window, between the top and bottom and also all around the storms and between the top and bottom storm. It was a two day project each spring and fall but well worth it.

This year we also upped the insulation in the attic.

Our worst bill last year was about $350, I'm hoping to cut that way back this year.

More details and other ideas are on that page and I'd love to hear any I haven't found or tried.

Here is a link that might be useful: Energy Savings in Older New England Homes

Thanks for the tips! The weekend project is to get some rope caulking and start sealing those windows and doors.

There's no insulation in the walls (stucco construction) so I'm sure that doesn't help either. But with older wiring and plaster walls, I don't really feel like having any "blown in".

Storm doors and windows have been in place for many years.
The siding is shot($ 8 grand or more for insulation and siding), little or no insulation - so my heat bills are high.
One man I know of in my area (SE PA)burns coal rather than the costly "dino" fuel. He cannot afford the extremely high cost of replacement windows - and his old ones are so grand, and large, and rich looking.

With hot water and steam it's generally accepted that using setback methods saves more money than leaving things at a constant temperature.

Look to the humidity levels in your old house, too. If they're too low, it will feel colder than if they're in the optimum winter range.

Attic insulation and sealing of cracks and leaks will do a lot for you.

Caulk behind the quarter round before installing. Try and close the gap between the baseboard and floor completely. Foam backer rod may be required. There is usually very little sealing between the sole plates and the floor in older houses (and plenty of newer ones).
Infiltration loss is the biggest problem in older structures. Once there is a path in, the stack effect (hot air rises) puts outward pressure on the upper floor openings, heat escapes, and cold air comes in down low to replace the escaped air. Most insulation (fiberglass, dry cellulose) do not stop infiltration. In older insulation the leak paths are often black with dust carried by the air. Expanding foam can be used to seal gaps and cracks, use caution and do not attemp to fill a large closed area. The expanding foam can develope enough force to crack plaster and bow surfaces.

The first year I was here I bought sheets on sale. White outside, colored sheet inside. I used those rings they hang curtains with now that are like shower ring curtains to hang them. They hung down to and onto the floor a couple of inches.

These helped, probably more so if they had space emergancy blankets at the time to line them with, old blankets inside might make a good lining also. With two sheets per curtain and two per window there was lots of fabric to help keep out drafts.

Anyhow, these helped the first year till we got things under control some, and they were cheap and easy to do.

One way to take the sting out of heating bills is to see if your utility company offers an Equal Payment Plan (there should be NO extra charge or membership fee). What they do is look at one year's worth of bills and find the monthly average. Then, the following year you get charged that amount every month. They continue to read the meter to keep track of usage. December is the month when they play catch up... you get money back if you've paid more than you've used, or you owe them more if you underpaid.

I, too, had some astronomical bills in the winter and moderate bills in the summer. Now, my monthly amount with the Equal Payment Plan is a flat amount which helps me budget more easily. And it looks like I'm right on target for December. I may owe a little extra but it won't make my eyes pop out of my head.

I realize this suggestion isn't about using less energy, but it can help take the pressure off.

Here is a link that might be useful: An example of the Equal Payment Plan

I'm cold now! But that's because I haven't turned the heat on yet. It may not be practical for those who live with people and not just a herd of cats, but I have a couple of space heaters that I use to keep warm in places like the office and the kitchen.

I keep the rest of the house at 50F in the winter and invest in Lands' End fleece! Their robes are like wearing blankets. I put storm windows on the upstairs and the kitchen addition a few years ago, and that saved at least 10% year over year adjusting for temp and fuel price (not use) variations between the years. So that's 4 year break even in my case. I will not put storms on the more visible and unique downstairs windows - most of which are french windows (like french doors.) I continue to hope for warmer and shorter winters :) I really ought to add more insulatation to the attic. You all are right about that, and it could help with the ice dams too...

I've done a lot of things to save energy in my old house, which combined together have made a huge difference, but it should be noted that not only is each house different in the results given, but what saves energy in one house may use more in another. For example a programable thermostat can save a large ammount of energy in a house with forced air or electric baseboard heating, but in a house with a gravity hot water system like mine it would consume more energy as a lot of heat is consumed just overcomming gravity when the system is first lit. If it has to re-heat the huge ammount of water and thermal mass often, then it will cost more to run than just leaving it at a steady temp. We should be careful not to make ineffective or even negative alterations to the wrong kind of building.

Anyway, the biggest difference yet was restoring the old windows and doors. New windows just don't pay for themselves in old houses, they cost far too much to ever save back their value in reduced heating, and they are almost never as nice looking or long lasting as the originals. Fortunatly, old windows can be restored and turned in to energy saving windows for a lot less than replacements. The main advantage a replacement window has over old windows is it's excellent weather stripping and tightly fitting sashes, although old windows can be upgraded to the same standards. I stripped all the paint that obstructed the sashes ensuring they closed tightly and could move easily, then I fitted sprung metal weatherstripping. This made a huge improvement, the heating bills certainly went down, and I could reduce the thermostat as I felt more comfortable in a cooler room that wasn't draughty. I also caulked all the gaps inside and outside around the windows, I even opened up the weight pockets and caulked the edges in there. The cost was about £20 each window. You can go further and install double pane glass in the original frames, which would give the exact same results as replacement windows for a fraction of the cost, but I decided it was still to expencive and the money would be better spent on more insulation in the attic. I did however install a UV blocking film as I wanted to avoid fading furnishings and it would stop the excessive heat gain in summer. So far it's worked well and I have noticed a difference in the summer, as now I can comfortable sit by the windows without feeling like I'm in an oven.

Insulated curtains, wool clothing, wool and down bedding and turn the furnace DOWN.

I keep the house 55 at night and 63 max during the day. I have a digital control for the furnace so it can be set to 55 while I'm at work, etc and its all automatic.

My house is 150 years old. When I run the "how engergy efficient am I" tool at my gas company's web site my home's useage/sq foot ranks as among the most efficient.

I'm guessings its because of the following:
1. I keep the heat MUCH lower than most people
2. Blown insulation has been added to the exterior walls.
3. There are no fewer than 4 layers of siding on the house which really cuts down on drafts and adds its own insulation.

Do I understand this thread - one person says that a programmable thermostat for a hot water system uses more energy and another says it uses less? We have a hot water system with a pump and a programmable thermostat. I have often wondered about this question and how best to set the thermostat. Any ideas on how to find an answer?

Lotsoideas,
The energy savings of programable themostats depend on a lot of factors. Generally the faster the heating system warms up the more effective they are.

The reason it would waste energy in my house is because of the gravity hot water system. Unlike your's it doesn't have a pump to ciculate the hot water, instead it relys on physics where hot water rises and cold falls, allong with a well designed pipe system to make the water circulate. Amazingly gravity can force the water from my basement up four floors to the attic with ease, but first for the natural circulation to start a few hundered gallons (every drop of water in my boiler, pipes and dozens of radiators), and the vast thermal mass of the several tons of cast iron the pipes, boiler and radiators are combined, has to heat up. This takes about 3 hours while the majority of heat produced by the boiler heats the system rather than the house, then after this once everything is hot and circulating the house starts to warm up. Start up cycles are simply wasted energy, thus allowing the system to cool and then reheating it often (like every night) would consume more energy than leaving it on, and the house temperature would not be stable. Unless I'm leaving the house for three or more days it wouldn't save energy to turn the heating off or down.

If however you have a heating system that warms up again quickly and doesn't consume much energy to get started, then buy a programable thermostat by all means, it will save you energy.

Ditto to all the excellent ideas presented. One I haven't seen mentioned is the use of a kerosene heater. I have a small one (9000 BTU) that doesn't use much fuel, but takes the chill out of the air in the living/dining room. By having a small radiant heat source where people are sitting, the low thermostat temperature seems less uncomfortable.

Of course the best idea is to be one of those people who have a gas well on their property...

Our resolution after last winter in our uninsulated, circa-1907 house was: never again!

We are really making an effort to maximize energy efficiency as we renovate. It is even affecting our interior decoration--all of our windows will have pelmets and winter and summer curtains. I'm providing a link to a publication (from Australia, of all places!) that had some very helpful information.

Here is a link that might be useful: Energy Savings for Windows PDF

Our previous owner installed all new vinyl windows in our 1888 victorian, which may be ugly but stop all drafts. I also caulk like crazy around the house (I did some this morning).

I also get my oil furnace and boiler serviced every September.

Last summer, I hired these guys (see the link) to blow in insulation on the front 1/3 of my house for $2,000. Hopefully, I'll be able to afford to do the remainder of the house next summer. The rooms are slightly warmer and A LOT quieter with a busy street outside.

Here is a link that might be useful: Flesher Insulation

As you can tell by my user name I am an
Energy Rater. What we do is to test homes and
advise people where potential savings lie in
not only upgrading hvac systems, insulation values,
and better windows but also testing homes for
air infiltration.

Excessive air infiltration is the biggest culpret in
existing homes, the age of the home, the more additions and renovations the more air infiltration.

There are lots of areas that you would never imagine
that allow attic and outside air to enter the home.

If the joint between ceiling and walls are not sealed
prior to moldings being installed these areas leak
attic air into home, thus the spider webs.

Recessed lights leak a lot of air.

Unsealed return air chases. Plumbing penetrations
light switches and outlets, unsealed stove vents.

Many states offer blower door testing for a very nominal
fee through their utility providers.
If this is not available in your area it is still worthwhile to pay for an audit from someone like myself.
Just as a rule of thumb, I heard one state offered testing
via utility co. for $25.00. My audits start at
$200.
Personally I could never do the testing I do for the $25.00 price. But thanks to us helpless utility users the providers have lots of $ and can afford to offer the service at a reduced price.

My advice is to have your home tested.

Find the areas where air is entering. Trying to caulk and
seal without knowing exactly where these areas of leakage
are is guesswork. Some areas will be easy to identify,
others only show up when house is deperssurized with
blower doors.

We can usually reduce utility cost in older homes
by as much as 50%.
My last months utility bill was $31. my house was built in the 50's.
When I first moved in as a renter my $275 rent was often equal to or more than my utility costs.
While I live in the hot humid south I am not a big fan
of a/c, I like my windows open as much as possible.
In the winter my utility costs are more because I have
propane heat and pay $1.97 per gallon. Thankfully there
are not many heating months here!

Lifestyle is very dependent on savings. In my case my house
is less than 1,000 sq. ft. and there are just 2 of us here.
(not counting the dogs!)

Caulking, nonexpanding foams and tapes are cheap.
It takes time but is well worth the effort.
Knowing were to seal cuts down on time spent in
weatherizing homes.

just my experience, but I hope this helps some of you!

Energy Rater-
Thank you very much for the information!

"The reason it would waste energy in my house is because of the gravity hot water system."

For a couple hundered dollars you could easily have a circulator installed, then use a setback thermostat.
If the huse is not occupied for a significant part of teh day you might even pay back the circulator in the first year.

Heaven = winter in Louisiana! I'd love to have those problems!!!!

I planted pansies every Christmas in DeRidder. Come up here to PA and help us deal with 28 inches of snow at a time. You bring the crawfish and boudoin, I'll cook, and you can do the energy check. Okay, we'll throw in a tour of Gettysburg....

Winter in La this year has not yet arrrived.
I think it is going to get into the 40's Thanksgiving
night, but then back to 60 at night and 70's in the days.

I could not deal with 28' of snow, but I will
plant some pansies for you!
Maybe save Gettysburg tour for spring???

Every house is different and this may be somewhat unique, but our 76 year old house has 54 steel casement windows and each one has a custom built oak framed screen that fits on the inside with hinges on top and a little ball with spring on the bottom. On all of the windows where an absolute clear view is less important (almost all upstairs windows) I annually shrinkwrap plastic on the screen frame so that the plastic is between the screen and the window. The seal is quite good and the difference in both the feel in the rooms and the heating bill is very noticeable. The plastic is virtually invisible, particularly since it is behind the screen.

Try radiant paint. Let me know if it works. Here's a link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Radiant paint

My idea of reducing my heating bill on my 96 year old, 1800sq ft living space, home is a new central heating system! Alas we cannot afford the $15,000 (I think that's what it was) recommendations and will suffer through another godawful winter. I hate being house poor but we will prevail in the end!!!
We caulk, caulk, caulk. Seal, seal, seal. Cover, cover, cover. Clean filters regularly. I don't know what else to do but we do it. Turn the heat down to 55 while gone and at night. Some vents blow cold air, while other's blow nice warm air - go figure!
We have heat 2 pumps (1 up, 1 down) that I've been told are about 35 years old - 10 years past their prime. It was recommended that we re-install oil heat downstairs and utilize the existing duct work. That will have to be re-evaluated now w/ the rise in the price of oil. My neighbors are paying the same amount per month for oil that I pay for my electric bill and everything in our house is electric. Replace upstairs heat pump w/ a newer more efficient model. I was told that the current system was meant for industrial use (our home was an office & school for a bit) so that explains why when the intake kicks on upstairs doors literally slam shut!
Next year we will probably start restoring and repairing the regular windows one by one as we can afford it. The first thing that I did was restore some of the stained glass windows that were broken or head lead that was so bad that I could see the outside around the lead.
My father has finally finished making new sashes for all of our attic windows - please of please let them be put in next spring! For 5 years we've been able to peer outside and not have to look through the window panes!
New porch steps should be going in as I get home today - thank heaven for good friends! My hope is that this will get everyone on the ball and want to do more!
We knew that this home would be a work in progress when we bought it.
Truly though after reading your posts it's not as bad as I thought. In 5 years my highest electric bill was $350 dollars and that was while running off of the upstairs heat pumps emergency backup electric heat all winter.
It'll get better :)

Gravity heating systems...

Wow. Talk about a throwback! Gravity systems were fine in the days when a coal fired boiler kept the water in the boiler warm and circulating pretty much 24x7, but they're just not a good idea with the on-demand oil or gas fired systems now days.

Also, over the years, the metal pipes will corrode and the systems become less and less efficient.

I agree with Brick, it's time to have the system updated with a circulator pump. That will increase the system's response time and likely drop your fuel bills considerably.

The biggest problem with a gravity heating system is getting any sort of zoning going on.

My parent's house was originally gravity, but in 1956 my Father and Grandfather put in an oil burner to replace the cooal boiler and installed circulators. Because of the nature of gravity systems, though, they were connected vertically, allowing the water to rise, instead of horizontally as today's systems are.

That means that often the top floor of the home is far warmer than the downstairs when the zone is in operation, which is the situation in my parent's house.

One solution we're looking at is to put in thermostatically controlled valves on individual radiators. That will allow better control per room, and also hopefully put an end to my Mother yelling about their bedroom being a sauna!

That's one way that steam systems have the advantage over gravity hot water systems -- the steam valves on radiators can be adjusted to fine tune the level of heat in a room.

As for kerosene heaters, we used to use them in the house I grew up in (house where parent's now live is where my father grew up, they bought the house from grandma and grandpa's estate).

Now days? I wouldn't under any circumstances put one in my home. Yes, they do kick off a lot of heat, but they also kick off a lot of stuff that just isn't good to be breathing.

With the gas prices going up,this is the first year that I am actively trying to NOT use the furnace excessively. I just bought a Vornado Digital Heater. It quickly, takes the chill out of the room. I just insulated the outlets and covered the windows with insulating plastic in the basement. I never heard of rope caulking until I read it here. Thanks. I will see where I can use it. The doors seem to pose a problem as far as a draft.

Rope caulk will be your best friend in an old home. I use 'Mor-tite' it comes in a blue and white box. It's a couple of dollars and I find 2 or 3 boxes would do all 25 windows before I re-did them.

I think from what I've been learning that the ceramic paint works better at keeping homes cool in the summer than warm in the winter.

The first few years we were here we made indoor storms out of plexi-glass to use over the stained glass windows. You cut it to fit in tight and tape it in place ( or silicon ). That made a huge difference here.

What energy rater & others said about infiltration & stack or chimney effect... I was skeptical until I did some reading and then last summer, because of the need to have electrical work done in attic, I removed all the grungy matted down rock wool and had someone seal w/foam the holes and gaps in basement and attic and blow in cellulose insulation to R50. They did blower door test to find all the leaks. The house felt warmer immediately and the outdoor sounds were more muffled which validated the idea that with the leaks sealed, cold air wasn't being sucked in from outside. Haven't gotten my first heat bill yet, but I will let you know how it compares! The cost was $1400, but then got $325 back in rebates thru energy star program. Yeah!

A maintenance guy where I used to work, some years ago, came to me and tried to sell me on this new business of his buddy's. The idea was that he came and pumped insulation into all your walls, ceilings, ect., claiming that there would be absolutely no air leaks even in my old place. I told him I wasn't sure that it would be such a great idea to completely seal a house. Doesn't a house have to breathe a little? What about air quality? Maybe I'm crazy, but I don't think I'd like it. Obvious holes, yes, to keep heat from escaping.

School,

Today's new homes are sealed to the point of not breathing. You're correct that that can cause all sorts of indoor air pollution problems, which is why heat recovery ventilation systems are becoming more and more common.

They exchange house air for outdoor air, but as the two air streams pass the warmed (or cooled air in summer) air exiting the house gives up its "goodness" to the air entering.

A properly designed system is very efficient, and a lot healthier.

Can someone explain rope caulking, how it works and how to install in my old windows?

Schoolhouse,
.35 air changes per hour is La.requirements for
a healthy house. Fla. is .25 ach
Air changes per hour are determined by blower
door testing.

Your friend's business of insulating walls and attics
to reduce air infiltration is a common misconception.

Insulation slows air flow but does not stop it.

Closed cell and open cell foam insulations can provide
air sealing, but at a premium cost.

Homes are being built tightly nowdays, and as kframe posted
heat recovery ventilatiors and energy recovery ventilators are being used more and more. (climate determines hrv or erv install).

More and more builders and hvac companies are understanding
the logic in building tight and ventilating right. It has been a long haul for us to get this building science 101 in use, and there is still lots of room for improvement!
But progress and changes come about slowly.

For every home I have been called for about mold, the air tightness of the home was not the culprit, except in one case.
In most cases mold is:
#1 oversizing of hvac
#2 building failures
#3 is a combination of 1&2
#4 is that water was entering the home through roof, improperly flashed windows or doors, plumbing leaks etc.

Trying to diagnose these specific problems without a visual inspection (at least) is akin to giving a haircut
over the phone.

In an existing home, in most cases the house beint too tight is not the problem at all. Reduction of air infiltration to an acceptable range is the challenge.

As for air quality issues seaing holes from attic into home
will improve iaq by eliminating insulation particles, dust
and attic temps from conditioned space.
Seperating attic space from conditioned space will also
increase comfort of home and in many cases once infiltration is reduced sizing of hvac comes into question.

In many cases hvac company, insulation company and energy raters work together to achieve proper RH, sizing of hvac,
sealing proir to insuatation install, and proper R-value.

Todd,
I am familiar with backer rods which are a closed cell insulation which comes in a roll. Different sizes for different sized gaps. Backer rods are installed into crack
and caulked in place. Caulking should be on both sides of
backer rod (not front and back) to allow for expansion and contraction of wood without compromising the insulation value of backer rod.
I hope this will clarify your application.

I have a house built in 1885, and we had problems with heating and drafts. So I replaced the weather stripping on the doors and windows, and had an energy audit done. The audit where they attach a blower to your front door, and suck out air. You then walk around the house and see (& hear) where air is getting in.

It was surprising the places it was coming in from, and after that I went on a foaming & cauling & insulating spree.

I also installed electronic programmable thermostats (we have electric baseboard heat in each room).

The result was lower heating costs, but perhaps more importantly a more comfortable house.

The only problem left is when it gets down below minus 30, the heating in our den just cannot keep up. I might install extra baseboards, or as a long range goal I am considering a gas fireplace insert to get extra heat, plus heat when the power goes out.

Rope calking is a pliable, almost clay-like substance that comes in a roll.

You unwind the length you need, and then simply press it into place.

Below is a link to an utility ad for mortite.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mortite, utility company adv.

I just went looking for my rope caulking, and it would appear that I used the last of it last year.

Time to go to the large orange box store...

This might sound completely ridiculous for where you are (not sure if you're in town, country, whatever), but my DH and I put in an outdoor wood furnace this past year and we're loving it. This is not for the faint of heart and/or those living in town. If you want more information, I'll be happy to provide it. If this is a completely whacked out suggestion, my apologies.

Regarding the programmable thermostat...love it!

The model I bought has a feature where it tracks how many hours the furnace has been running. This is supposed to be to remind you to replace your air filter, but I have been mis-using it to track my heating efficiency.

For performance-tweakers like me who need immediate gratification, it's nice to be able to compare weekly the hours run to the CPC Heating Degree Days. Fun for the whole family!

jf

Here is a link that might be useful: CPC Heating Degree Days

Every home is different, but I think the basic strategy for insulating a home should go in this order:

1) Attic: seal all air leaks and then insulate to R-value for your area. Include in attic sealing any and all ventilators, flues, recessed lighting, etc.

2) Floor: seal all air leaks and insulate to about 1/4 to 1/2 R value of attic.

3) Walls: Seal any leaks and insulate to recommended R-value.

4) Windows: Seal any air leaks and replace with low-E insulated windows.

I address the heating system separately but this may be a priority if it's in real bad shape. Often ducted systems in older homes can have major leaks, so a complete inspection is in order.

After I sealed my 64 year old home's attic air leaks and insulated to between R-13 and R-25, I saw a 30% drop in winter heating gas consumption. The home had been remodeled in the 60's, and there were some very major air leaks going on. Mainly, a centrally located cooktop hood with no damper, defective damper in fireplace in adjoining family room, and various gaps around ceiling light and fan fixtures.

The following year I insulated under the floor of the master bed/bath, and sealed some pretty major heating duct leaks (some gaps were big enough to stick a hand into!) and insulated the outside of the ductwork to R-5. I also boosted the attic insulation to between R-38 and R-50. After this I saw another approx. 15% drop in heating gas consumption.

Plus the home is much more comfortable without all those drafts going on. My next project is to finish insulating under the rest of the rooms, and finish wrapping insulation around a few more feet of heating duct down there. At some point, it would be nice to replace the windows, but it's not a priority.

Note: before insulating an uninsulated attic, make sure the attic eaves/soffits are properly ventilated. Insulating an inadequately vented attic can result in condensation and moisture damage.

I installed a VENTED Kerosene heater (40K Btu) and haven't used my old forced-air system in the 3 years since. This past winter I averaged about 4 gallons of K-1 per day during our minus 20F weather to keep my 2200 sq ft home @70 degrees. Albeit these units aren't cheap to purchase (about $1200 retail) my total heat bill this year was under $950. As a bonus, I have my unit plugged into a battery back-up (UPS) and when the power goes out I still have heat :-)

I don't sell these things, but I sure do LIKE 'em!

You're talking to the queen of caulk here....but if you see the foam insulation thread ,you'll see that it didn't get much done without having solid insulation in the walls..I decided to go ahead with a combination of cellulose and foam...the installer is very knowledgable about what to put where to avoid problems.I have noticed a HUGE difference so far and they haven't even done the first floor or stairways yet. As far as caulking air leaks I have done every imaginable space including between cove moulding and ceiling and walls , where the stair treads meet the skirt, all door and window parts, I have those insulators inside the electrical outlets and light switches...you name it ,I've done it.

We had our old furnace (22 years old) replaced last March. We have been much warmer and the house has had a more even temperature throughout - we did some minor adjustments to the vents - and have saved our $250 on our gas in the past twelve months. Had prices not gone up we would have saved more. Also replaced old appliances in kitchen and new a/c condenser and electric bills have been significantly lower too. So, if you have old heating / cooling equipment my advice would be to change it out as soon as you can!

Well, since I started this thread, maybe I should report back. We weatherstripped the windows, added attic insulation, and caulked everywhere we could, and our savings were considerable this winter compared to last. I'd say our bills were on average about $50-$100 lower per month. Couple that with the fact that my elderly in-laws were staying with us for 3 months and required the thermostat to be set at 70 degrees all day long, and I'd say we did pretty well overall.

This summer we'll be doing some more work on the windows, replacing some broken panes. We're also going to have to see about the front door, which has developed several large cracks.

Thank goodness spring is here!

bmmalone, in fact you saved more than $250 because the heating prices have gone up.

We have plenty of insulation in our attic and it is well vented but we still freeze because our 4 inch walls are poorly insulated with old compacted rock wool. What I am now doing is furring out all exterior walls to 6 inches and reinsulating. I did one bedroom last summer and there was a night and day difference in how comfortable the room was! I plan on doing the other two bedrooms this summer and eventually the whole house. For details and pictures check out the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Insulation Project

We got rid of our oil system almost 2 years ago and installed a DX geothermal heat pump. Last winter, based on the price of oil of our last oil fill-up (2 1/2 years ago), we saved over $1700.00 on heating costs. Next heating season, I would expect the savings to be well over $2000.00! Incidentally, we now keep our home 2 degrees warmer, and NEVER set back the thermostat.

There is no better way to space condition; DON'T take my word for it, research it!

More information regarding this topic can be found at this site:

http://how-efficient-is-it-magazine.com

Here is a link that might be useful: how-efficient-is-it-magazine.com