Ladle?

Are you trying to confuse me? :)

Your questions are too confusing ;)

here you go

In my own cabs I changed all of the 1/2" to 3/4" plywood. No face frames. and also a 3/4" integrated top for granite counters. drawer bottoms are 1/4" plywood.

My ladle is less than 1/4". Plastic, not plywood.

Ok, ha! I stand corrected, or chastised or something. But I'm grateful for the stabs at answering anyway.

And especially, pharaoh -- thanks. Kingly.

I only meant to distinguish the actual drawer box itself (that would house a "ladle") from a potential sheath that went around the drawer box, from which it would pull out of.

Your picture, pharaoh, doesn't show a separator of the drawer box from the cavity of the cabinet below, but I'm guessing some people would put them in. This would result in your being unable to, say, nudge the drawer open from underneath should something get stuck. And I was thinking that it would result in a housing for the drawer box that might be fitted in a modular fashion inside the face frame of the cabinet stack.

Mostly what I was thinking is that it might resolve why I've heard from different and seemingly competent and reputable people opinions ranging from: "1/2" is just fine; we've never had a problem in 60 years" to "why would you bother with 3/4", it just takes up more space and is unnecessary" to "I would never dream of doing anything less than 3/4"; settling for less is just a mistake".

I was thinking it was possible these were actually references to different parts of the setup.

And seemingly the diagrm posted by pharaoh suggests different standards in different places.

My question, I guess, is: 'where does durability give way to a conspicuous insistence on bigger for its own sake: when does bigger (in plywood for cabinets) become not necessarily better?'

Lore galore. All that talk about 1/2" or 2/3" or whatever. It really depends on how many hippos will want to get up onto the cabinets and get dynamic motion going on the countertop. Nothing other than that. Structural strength if several hundred pounds moves around on the counter.

3/4" is referring the the big "outside" box... often there is a different dimension for the drawers themselves. The width determines strength, so a 1/4" outside box may not hold up under granite countertops and would bow or bend. Most people on here would probably tell you to upgrade to the 3/4" boxes if you can swing it. You want those puppies to last forever!!
The width of sides the drawers themselves is also important, but I don't think they go quite as big as 3/4" unlesss they are the heavy duty ones.

Also important is how the sides of the boxes are joined to the faceframe and back of the boxes. This could be a whole other thread and discussion!! (Usually the backs of the boxes are thinner than the sides, BTW)

If you are wondering how much useable space is inside their drawers, I guess your best bet is to measure a cabinet outside and then inside the drawer to see how much "air" there is in between.

Are you doing face frame or frame less?

I build frameless cabs and decided to use 3/4" sides. 1/2" would have been fine too. Once cabs get screwed to each other and the walls, they are pretty rigid.

The picture dimensions would be satisfactory to me. Except the hollow top. I dont like hollow top cabs.

Drawers are not separated from the rest of the cabs with a solid separator. You just build a cabinet and add drawers as needed. The undermount blum slides make removing the drawers very easy.

Please post a photo or drawing of the ladle you speak of.

I have a drawer that houses my ladles - but I don't know if that is what you are refering to . . .

My cabinets are 3/4 plywood boxes with 3/4" solid oak face frames. If nothing else, they are incredibly solid.

Just to mess with you, I do have a floor under the drawer above my trash pullout because I didn't want smells to migrate.

There are a lot of different set ups so we're just generalizing.

(Macybaby! Are those Lee Valley Tools dividers?)