Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here. @tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall? Without that information it's hard to truly help. @sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open. But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements. Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island. @tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed. If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible. But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase. OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible. I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions. I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot). Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation. Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060

Yes, this particular model number came out in 2014 but what really matters is the underlying design. Often they'll make minor aesthetic/interior improvements from year to year and change the model number. My fridge is the same basic design as this one. I've talked to repairmen who've had to repair multiple of the same Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, Samsung, LG, etc. fridges for no cooling. This repairman's anecdotes, especially given that he works for GE and only sees their appliances, don't really say anything about its reliability compared to the competition. This experience certainly was terrible and I'm not trying to excuse that... just trying to convey to future readers that avoiding one particular brand won't really make you less likely to run into a situation like this. None of them are made like they used to, and there are instances of crappy service with all of them. The only way to statistically improve your chances of getting a good fridge is to buy a very basic, no-frills top mount with mechanical controls, and the only way to improve your chances of excellent customer service are to buy a SubZero.

You probably saw Erica L's thread, it is on page 1 below yours. Just in case you didn't, here is the link... http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3693456/freaking-out-about-counter-depth-fridge-sticking-out-past-pantry-cabs?n=100 You should read her thread because it discusses the whole 2" clearance verses counter depth issue. It does seem contradictory. Naming it "counter depth" to me is misleading. For instance, in Erica's case her GE cd fridge specs says the case without the doors is 24 3/8". Now on top of that you need to allow 2" air clearance in the back according to their recommended specs. So how on earth can they say it's counter depth? Go figure! If you want the sides or "case" covered by a panel or cabinetry, it needs to be bumped out further the the normal 24". I guess somewhere around 2-2 1/2". I'm not an expert, so I could be wrong. But in Erica's case that's what happened from what I gather. As a side note, is that a wall to the right of your fridge? You need space so the door can open fully. edit: counter depth is more like 25 1/2" so I guess technically they can say that, but with the back air clearance they say is needed, then it is not.

I too have the same concern, we did Thermador integrated panel ready, the contractor has part of the box constructed and the framing for the fridge is flush with the lower cabinet, the fridge is at the end of a 36 inch cabinet/counter run, and I'm worried that the countertop is going to stick out past the panel fridge doors? We really wanted that seamless look, but I'm worried our cabinet guy didn't factor in clearance for the counter overhang? will it look weird for the countertop do be proud of the panel fridge door, or will the panel/door hinge help factor in that 3/4 inch of countertop, I'm fine if it's flush, but I'm worried it won't be? The fridge is the end piece on that wall, so it might not look weird...but??? Any advice? Worst case scenario we make them redo the framing for the fridge to be flush with counter?