An additional coat or two on a wood floor is what we used to call a 'buff and coat'. This sounds like what you need. Some of the major finish manufactures have systems for improving the adhesion of the additional coats. Bona Prep and Tykoat are two of these products. Certain contaminants such as wax or silicone which interfere with adhesion are difficult to remove completely. There is some risk that the new finish will lift if there are contaminants on the finish especially at the edges of the boards.

If you see wear on your wood floor after two years, it's time to recoat it, not refinish it. You only get so many resandings. As your kids grow they should get a little more responsible and be easier on the floor. You should evaluate why you have so much wear so you can extend time between recoating. Sand is often the culprit. When I look at floors with wear issues I run my hand across the floor to see if it's clean. Do you have dogs that come in the house after laying in dirt? Do you have mats inside and outside each entry door? How often do you vacuum to remove sand? What do you clean the floor with? Installing new hand scraped factory finished floor would be expensive and would only buy you a little extra time. Once it's scuffed and scratched you'll have to recoat it. Then you'll be in the same boat you're in now. You say you got Swedish finish. Is this Swedish finish as in acid curing urethane, or as in waterborne urethane? If you got waterborne urethane (and you've been maintaining your floor correctly) you could have the floor recoated with a more durable finish like oil-modified polyurethane. You could possibly do one room as a test first. Refinishing your existing floor and staining it dark will not lessen the appearance of dings and dents. For people in your situation I usually recommend they soldier through, maintain their existing floor until the kids get to a certain age (like college age) then have the floors done the way YOU want them.

We own an 1884 house with narrow oak flooring. We just refinished our worst floor (9x9 in the library) ourselves. It had water damage and about 1/3 the boards were cupped at least a bit. Next to no finish on the floor except ground in dirt. We figured we couldn't really make it worse, so it was a good place to learn. Since we didn't know how many times the floor had been sanded (could have been none but we had no idea) we scrubbed the floor several times with TSP, then stripped it with SoyGel. It was messy, slippery, and DH hated it, but once we finished and it dried (and we washed it down a few times), it was obvious it did the job. Then we just sanded off the worst of the cupping with an orbital hand sander. Then we sanded the whole floor lightly to make sure there wasn't any bits of finish anyplace, and we packed a bunch of the sawdust into the widest cracks where the water damage had shrunk the wood and the sander vibrated it down into them. Then we finished them with Waterlox. Mixed stain into the 1st coat to help hide the stains that didn't sand out, followed by 2 or 3 coats of plain Waterlox. It looks awesome! My new favorite floor. I can't wait til Spring when we'll do the Living room (14x15, but no serious damages just more ground in dirt and little finish (but we may get braver and try a sander instead of the SoyGel, not quite sure yet!) Always ;-) Hunzi

I would buy a scratch stick and fill it in myself. Because wood fillers stay forever tacky dirt will quickly collect over it. So I would take a paint brush and dip it into polyurethane and cover over it carefully. My floor is 50+ years old with nails holding it in place instead of the tongue & groove. Often the wood putty pops off a nail head and I just recover it again with new putty. I think this guy was lazy and didn't tell you the truth about the scratch but he should have filled it in with a stick or putty before he polyurethaned over it.