First, "sand" in a lot of bonsai books originating in the east actually means 'river sand', which is very small pebbles like you'd get in a river bed, but don't rush out looking for them over here as they don't equate to what's over there. Sand as we know it, however, is definitely not a good idea for various reasons. Secondly, instead of pumice, I'd add some organics, bits of pine bark mulch of 1/8-1/16" size, but not acquired 'wild', better to go with some from a nursery or even a bagged Orchid Mix (tho' you'd have to break up those soft wood pieces). Instead of Akadama, which is expensive, you can use Turface, more readily available and cheaper. Unfortunately, Chicago is too cold to just leave blk pines out all year, so they weren't a great choice, but there are various options you might look into for winter protection in future (don't even think about putting them out this yr). I say all this because you may not realize that no pines will survive any length of time indoors (except, hopefully, your seedlings, til late spring) and must live outdoors for life. Pines of any kind are definitely not beginner material anyway, so good luck with the future of them, Your best bet for 'potting' would be a training box - simulates in-ground growing better than any pot but is still portable, though it's too soon to even put them in one of those. What is really important now is to keep them in a cool, very airy place with lots of humidity - not sprayed on but either on stones in a wide tray of water that never, ever touches the pot bottom, or even a cool mist humidifier. They won't be ready for 'bonsai' training for 3-5 years at least, so you'll have to do what you can to keep them alive that long. Go to www.evergreengardenworks.com for very good advice about other aspects of keeping and training them.

Thanks, guys. Ken, you'd be proud of me -- I transferred everything that's sprouted into a bonsai mix w/a bit-o-peat. This mix is *much* more free-draining than the peat pellets. hereinontario, thanks for your input. I was actually getting in the board again to ask why two of my sprouts had suddenly fallen over. I'd presume they've had damping off, although they are not gray or fuzzy. The base of the shoot at soil line is thin and shriveled, though. I've read that cinnamon, chamomile tea, and Safer's Insect-Killing Soap (which apparently kills more than insects, and I mention only because I couldn't find your Damp Off product locally and wanted to act fast) are supposed to fight damping off. I am trying all three. Question: I put the seedlings on the patio on warmish, sunny days (above 60F here), but they're mainly indoors, near a heating duct for some low-budget bottom heat. Would putting them outdoors full-time be too much of a shock for them now? We've got a few near-freezing nights forecast here, and it could easily get colder still this time of year. Separately, would you suggest moving the non-sprouted seeds -- which haven't been birthed into climate-control -- outdoors? And out of peat, or still in peat until they hatch? Anything else to consider? Also, I know too damp is bad, but I should still keep this moister than full-grown plants, right? Wrong? Many thanks, guys, -James

All of my avocados have born fruit from seed grown plants. The problem is the length of time you must wait can be as long as seven years. I have never grafted nor purchased grafted plants. Many people are unsuccessful rooting from seed, because they do not thoroughly change the water on the seed while they are rooting it. Change the water often and generally they sprout quite nicely. My current (3) trees are now four years old. They were the last seeds off my mother tree from south Florida who blew over during hurricane Francis. I have been told the tree did not completely die and re-rooted itself and is still growing. My old tree came from seed and started producing in year seven, a very small crop. After that I couldn't give away enough fruit and the squirrels even took many for themselves. That tree was from the parent tree my uncle grew from seed in south Florida some thirty years ago. So seed grown trees will fruit. Remember their love for copper. I not only fertilize but drive copper nails into the ground as well as when their older small copper tacks into the tree itself. I will post current pics of my trees when I get them uploaded.

I transplanted tomatoes yesterday, too. :-) Alice, I used a clothes pin and propped up the lids on my flats. Can you do something like that? It seemed to be a happy medium. If they are the Jiffy Flats, I just clipped the clothespin to the top and let the two little legs of the clothespin rest of the side of the bottom of the flat. It works perfectly. I hope your outcome is better than the last time I had to leave my husband in charge of seedlings. Only one very drought tolerant tomato survived 10 days without water. :-) At least he remembered to feed the dogs (bless his heart!). Cheers, Michelle