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Take Me On The Allium Highway

John Liu
13 years ago

When the cook stepped on to the allium highway, there was the kingly onion. Then s/he came to the spritely scallion and the pungent garlic. And there the allium highway stopped.

Or did it? Some of you went on to embrace the pretty chive, the clever shallot and the subtle leek. Why did you, or why didn't you?

I do use shallots, but lately have been wondering why. After sweating, browning, stewing, or doing whatever to the aromatic, I'm not positive that I really get enough of a different taste from shallots to justify the downside of using them in most recipes, rather than simply using onions. The ''downside'', to me, is that shallots are more expensive, don't store as well, and are slower to peel and dice fine.

(To dice an onion, I cut it in half from pole to pole, cut off one end of the half-onion, make radial cuts through the half, then turn the knife 90 degrees and cut slices, which fall apart into the dice. I dice shallots the same way. Thus, the same time spent with the knife gets me a quarter the volume of diced product, since the shallot is so much smaller than the onion. It makes for less efficient prepping.)

As for leeks, I use them in leek soup but not much else. Am I overlooking the versatility of the tallest allium?

Chives are pretty, I'd use them all the time if I had a chive plant in the windowsill, but buying fresh chives at the store is sort of a pain.

Finally, going back to onions, I am quite unsophisticated with this vegetable. I recognize only white, yellow, and red. Do you find that it is worthwhile to seek out specific varieties of onion? Vidalia for one recipe and Walla Walla for another?

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