I don't know. I would think you would prime first, though Eric does have a point. Eric, don't you think that a layer of bin or something would add some stability w/out adding thickness?

Eric has always kept me in the right direction. I have to add that I am a confirmed stripper in this house because my paint shows ever type of crackling, alligator, etc. to indicate that the paint is failing. Some layers appear much thicker than others, though all are failing.

Why don't you get two more bids and compare the assesments of your paint and the price to do a lasting job?

Thanks everyone for the responses! Eric, that is really interesting info about the "critical thickness", what amazing things I learn on these forums! This painter has been in business for a long time, with a great reputation, so he probably is of the school of using the minimum amount to accomplish the job, as you said.

I will ask him what kind of paint he would use. He already told me the reason he wouldn't prime was because he didn't think it was necesarry because the exsisting paint was still in pretty good shape, but for a few places, and that in his words "paint really sticks to paint".

I think I have what I need to proceed now. I'll get another bid and if the recommendations match up I'll go with the first guy.

You guys are great, thanks so much!

- Chantico

We only prime the bare wood, indoors or out. We do extra prep if it's latex on oil.

GaleForce, by "extra prep" for latex on oil, do you mean sanding and priming the whole thing? -Chantico

My house has orginal 1928 split cedar shakes.

I had some really weathered shingles on the south side, they looked way more worn than the other sides of the house.

We primed the whole house with a tinted primer - I'm glad I primed those weathered shingles, the topcot came out really nice over those primered shingles.

I think sometimes it's important to prime weathered wood.

So what is the final answer? Should I prime over existing exterior paint or just paint over the paint? Also, how many coats of paint do professional painters usually put on the exterior of a house-one or two. Finally, has anyone reglazed windows and if so, is it difficult or something I can do myself?

When painting the exterior of a house do most professionals use brushes or a sprayer? Also, if it is lap siding (I think that's what it's called) should it be brushed or sprayed?

You said originally that the painter was highly recommended with a great reputation. He will know if it were oil based paint and how to deal with it, also the priming issue. Sometimes you just have to trust the professional.

Cross posting is discouraged but I would also post this on the paint forum. Been awhile since I hung out there but there used to be a couple of fairly experienced "paint" guys. You could also ask at Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore stores.

You can put latex over oil But not oil over latex.
What NEEDS to be prime is bare wood AFTER it's been sanded.
What needs to be sanded is any wood that is greyish in color or has checking.
Primer sticks best to clean wood. Paint sticks best to a prepainted surface, hence the use of primer or the practice of painting over paint.
IMHO spraying paint is a huge waste of time and paint. In no way does it matches the kind of job or quality you get from hand painting.

We had ours all redone all primed.Looks good.

Sherwin Williams Duration exterior house paint doesn't require a primer even on bare (sanded) wood. Works great.
kathy

My garage was in a similar state...I pressure washed the whole thing and used Behr's Primer/Paint all in one paint (don't remember the real name). It turned out great and hasn't pealed after the first year. Many people say Behr is not the greatest paint, but it's done well so far...no complaints so far

B-I-N is formulated for interior applications, and does not possess the same weathering properties as a conventional exterior primer. Exterior use is generally limited to spot priming of knots in bare wood.