Sorry, I guess no one reading this has experience with resin. Hope your project works out! Kathy

The outer casing is cut with a hacksaw, the wires must be trimmed according to instructions (and nutted, etc) then the end caps are re-inserted. Save any spare outlet modules for future breakage, as they may change the design and be hard to come by. Casey

In the IKEA planner, they call what goes on top of the cabinet is called a cornice, and along the bottom is called a deco strip. However, they use the same piece for both, and on the website it's called "Deco Strip." What color are you doing? For Grimslov or Bodbyn white, it would be Forbattra off-white; for Flipstad they have a flipstad piece, etc. Here is a link to the section with the deco strips: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/kitchen/23614/

Gotta be careful with heat guns. I have one, and if the application I'm heating is attached to the house I use it on the low setting. Many a house has been burned down with a heat gun. There is the real potential it will blow a smoldering ember into a recessed area that eventually catches fire. I was talking about the quartz bulb infrared paint remover. Doesn't blow any potentially fire starting debris into nooks and crannies. I figured it might be an old apartment building. But I've seen old houses with that many layers of paint too. And always wondered when there was already too much paint on there, why even more was applied. It's not like it looks any better... Peel Away will get really expensive really fast. But, I cannot imagine heat stripping that much paint off of that much wood work. You'll need an assortment of different size scrapers and and arsenal of fresh blades. Because the first four layers of lead paint, the eight layers of non lead oil paint, and the 12 layers of latex paint will dull those blades fast. Before committing to peel away, try Citri Strip. It's a lot less expensive, and you can get it at Home Depot. From my experience it works pretty well.