Thanks for the reply. I'll go look for those access panels, haven't been able to find them at a local store yet. I think I'd prefer the larger hole, though, it would enable me (or someone else) to basically stick my head up into the space between floor joists and suspended drywall ceiling and work there -- all the electrical cables are coming up from the panel at the wall above, and with a small hole it'd be difficult to have access to them all (and I bet I'd need to access the one I can't reach later...) Also, I think having one large panel actually may look better, as it seems more like intentional design rather than "oh, someone had to cover something up there...". Actually, after looking more closely at some ceiling tile, there is some which has recessed edges, so that it'll stick out under the grid. Which while generally better looking wouldn't work well in my application. But other panels are just flush, so they'd at least maintain the level of the ceiling. Then again, those I've seen have really rather ugly texture. And then I realized, I could just use the T-rails from a suspended ceiling system, and put in a piece of drywall instead. It's heavier, but I think it would work, and then there are no issues about mismatching texture/color. The other alternative would be to use one of those more fancy tiles, to intentionally create a point of contrast. Like a silver-metallic grid. Decisions, decisions...

Lots of criteria to consider...length of discrepency, lighting conditions, intended finish, etc. My experience has been that with a large area you are better off doing it right, from the framing out. Skim coating is typically a very thin coat of mud that either feathers blems out or simply covers slight imperfections in the paper of the sheetrock. I dont consider a very thick layer of mud skim coating. You may be setting yourself up for an even bigger mess down the road when/if settling occurs. To me...I would insist its done right. I get tired of these tradespeople pushing off second rate work and practices under the guise "we do it all the time". It is your investment. They are only concerned to keep you at bay for a very short period of time.

dragondad, I'm going to assume by a hanging celing, you mean a drop ceiling with 2' x 4' tiles hanging between an aluminum grid. I installed that type in our other house. That was 17 years ago. I had to replace a few tiles over the years but the system held up very well. It also allowed me easy access to wiring and pipes. Maintenance was easy - almost none. We had a large choice of decorator styles which helped. Enjoy the journey. eal51 in western CT

Both MC cable and AC cable have a spiral armor and are available in steel or aluminum armor. The NEC makes no distinction between the metal used for the armor for residential applications. They all fall under the same installation rules and require metal plates in wood studs if they pass through a stud less than 1.25 inches from the face of the stud. A notch would require an approved metal plate at every stud. No protection is required between the studs. A nail or screw would simply move the cable and not penetrate. "There was lots of rolls of wire everywhere" Rolls of wire or rolls of cable? While they could have used flexible metal conduit and pulled wires after the conduit was installed, that would be an incredibly expensive way to install residential wiring. The labor would be horrendous. It might be best to let them finsih the work and leave. Do NOT pay any final bill. Hire an electrician and have them inspect, correct, and finish the job. You can deduct the costs of re-doing incorrect wiring from any bill the GC cares to tender. This type of thing is liable to devolve into a real fight, and even involve an attorney. It sounds like the AHJ is at beast asleep at the switch, and at worst incompetent or has been paid off. It might be time to talk to the head of the building inspectors.