Kraftmaid Crown Molding Decision

12 years ago

I completed most of my kitchen about two years ago, but neglected to install any crown molding to allocate money to other incomplete projects. Right now I am interested in either purchasing the crown molding kit from Kraftmaid for my cabinets, or just installing crown molding on the walls.

Does anyone have any advice? Should I also put it on the cabinets that are at the lower elevation? Is it tough to work with the pre-painted molding when doing a inside corner cope?

One thing to keep in mind is that my cabinets vary from 2.5" to 4" from the ceiling; which I believe can be fixed with a two piece crown?

And just a general comment, the Touch2o technology on my Delta faucet is the most annoying thing EVER! What would look good replacing it?

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Comments (10)

okpokesfan
12 years ago
Your kitchen is so pretty! Crown molding on the cabinets will really make them pop I think. I would put it on both lower and upper elevation cabinets.

I have just a regular Delta pull down faucet (not the touch technology) and love it.
Tinsel
12 years ago
I agree, I'd do it on both elevations. It's going to look excellent! I have no advice on the inside corners though, haven't been there yet!

Are you married to the whole pull-down faucet thing or are you looking at all options?
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Please help me to understand what I'm seeing from your pictures. The cabinets on the left side and left part of the top leg of the U are under a "beam" or soffit? And the ones on the right are not directly under the soffit? If that's the case, the better look would be to create a soffit over the cabinets on the top leg of the U. Using crown can work great in some kitchens to unify and accessorize cabinets, but in your case, it will only serve to accent the disharmony between the two sides. In Karen_lynne's space, only the single beam had to be cut around, but doing the same in your kitchen, with no crown on the left wall due to the beam will not look cohesive. It will look choppy. If the cabinets to the left are actually open at the top where you'll be able to use crown, then cutting it around the one beam won't be as much of an issue.
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abfabamy
12 years ago
I think crown on the cabinets, both upper and lower elevation would look good.

We just installed prestained Kraftmaid crown on ours and the inside cope is tricky because you can't really effectively patch misaligned pieces. It requires skill and very careful and thoughtful cutting, but it looks soooo good.

As far as the faucet, if you like it otherwise, you can just take the batteries out and it becomes a regular pull-down faucet.
clarygrace
12 years ago
I agree, molding on both elevations will look stunning!

Two questions:

We are contemplating a Delta Touch faucet (Trinsic) Can you tell us why you dislike the feature? Is it skittish, intermittent???

Also, the paint color in your kitchen is lovely. Can you tell me what it is? I've been looking at BM Starry Night and your seems similar.

Cheers!
Andrew
Original Author
12 years ago
The color is actually BM Nantucket Fog, using the Aura Matte Paint.

If i do the crown molding on the cabinets, should I do anything in the rest of the room?

Does anyone have any pictures or feedback how the pieces attach to the cabinets?
kompy
12 years ago
If you do crown on both, measure the depth difference between the upper cabinets. Pick out a crown molding that is that depth or LESS. The KraftMaid spec book will show you this. They have quite a few to choose from.

For example, if the difference is 3". Then go with a crown that is 3" deep or less. The crown molding needs to butt in to the side of the deeper cabinet. IF deeper...it will stick out.

For the height...you will probably need to put up white filler board to the ceiling....then go with slightly less than 2.5" and 4" for those spaces. KM has crown from 1.25" tall and up.

The end by the window will be tricky...since your window trim will be in the way.

The other ends...are they flush ends? or is the end panel slightly recessed? That will cause an issue...a gap will appear. Fix two ways: Order wood skins to apply and make flush or order scribe molding and trim along underneath the crown to fill the gap.

KM also has an L-shaped molding that will fill the spaces...then add crown. It brings the crown out deeper than a filler...and looks a lot better...but it's a pricey molding. You won't need a lot, so maybe that's your best bet.

You can also just order Long straight valance boards with a profiled edge. Screw blocking (raw lumber) on top...then apply then trim the valance board to fit and nail on. Then apply crown over top of that up to the ceiling.

A 2 pc. crown application like I've mentioned is about the only way to do this....unless you can get moldings to fit perfect. That is not always possible.

Hope this helps.
KOMPY
sombreuil_mongrel
12 years ago
I did some _thick_ crown from KM in maple and it was almost impossible to cope inside corners. Maple was just too hard to cut with the fine coping saw blades at that thickness. Another installer showed me how the prefab the inside corners by mitering, gluing and pinning them together on the bench, then making the outside corners last, in place.
Casey
angie_diy
12 years ago
Casey: I am aware that coping the inside corner is standard practice (where it is possible), but I haven't figured out why. I always assumed crown was simply mitered for inside corners. Did you learn why coping is the standard?

Thanks, Angie
sombreuil_mongrel
12 years ago
On furniture, moldings are mitered no matter what. Basically because you are nailing against solid wood, and it isn't going to shift around. Wallboard's a different story, because when nailing, the coped end is nailed after the butted end, so if nailing the molding pushes the wallboard further into the corner, the joint does not appear to open up (bad) whereas a miter opens up if either piece moves. Copes are also more forgiving of non-90* corners, etc.
Not all moldings can be coped, even some crown moldings; then you've no choice but to miter. The profile determines the ability to cope a molding. Any molding whose profile "turns back upon itself" is a non-copeable one.
Casey
angie_diy
12 years ago
Casey, thank you for that information. Very interesting. I also have maple, although not THAT thick (13/16"), and it has a very simple profile. Perhaps I will consider my cabs to be "furniture" and simply miter the one inside corner I have to do! Thanks again.