Trim used to be a lot thicker. Baseboards a full inch were not uncommon, and together with full size shoe mold (1/2 inch) or quarter round (3/4 inch) would cover a lot of the floor at the wall. Older trim was often made up of multiple pieces, so a 6 inch tall baseboard might be 5 inches of 1 inch thick wood (back coved to save shipping weight) and a pieces of ogee or ogee hook applied to the top edge. Door and window casing was similar. By using two pieces of wood 5/4 inch wood could be used to make a molding almost two inches thick at the edge. Most modern molding is machined from boards that have already been surfaced to 3/4 inch net meaning the final molding is under 5/8 inch net thickness.

I can help you with some. #1. They are sometimes called Oriel windows. #2. You can view the Eclipse wood window. That has very little jamb liner revealed and has an .060 extruded aluminum exterior frame. It is also a true tilt in with latches. Here is a link that might be useful: Eclipse

Hi all, thank you for sharing your opinions and advice! Certainly giving me lots to consider and makes me reconsider keeping even if there is only one sanding left in them. So the reason he said there was only one sanding left was in reference to the amount of wood left above the nail heads used. the photos don't show it, but there are about 3-4 areas of the floor where it's more significantly damages from water, etc. where the recommendation was to splice in matching planks to that area if wanting to preserve the rest. one room on the second level as a big hump in it and due to sagging front porch underneath which we are repairing next fall, as well as large pet stains (I think) in one area. I don't want the floors to look perfect, as we refinished in our current century home and I love the character that lets you know they are original, but I worry about not being able to refinish 20 years down the road if this is truly the last sanding before hitting nail heads . But interesting comments about product where you can just spot sand. I will definitely explore this further. The advice came from our friend who will give us the flooring at cost but just charge full price on labour/installation, so I believe he actually could make more from managing the refinish and is just giving a heads up about the long term needs of the floor. But is by no means an expert on refinishing antiques so I am glad to hear other opinions and experiences here!

Your main colors are a yellow floor, and a wood with a strong red brown tone. Grays don't play well with that. You need warm toned browned greens, blues that have some green, terra cottas, mocha milkshake colors with that hint of red, tans with either red or yellow tones, or whites with the same. The wrong color families in the "neutrals" will look fluorescent against those natural materials.