Unless there is something very special about the beadboard, it will probably be cheaper to remove t and replace it. Even if you have to have the material run at a lumberyard. Sandblasting inside a house is a disaster. There is no real way to effectively contain the dust. The cost of stripper over a large area makes replacement start to look good. And I love old houses. I have made hundreds of feet (probably thousands by now) of molding to match stuff up to 200 years old. Some was rotted, some was damaged, a lot had lead paint.

Are you all feeling superior now? Comments posted while I was writing mine, including the one Sandi wrote. Actually, I have a habit of calling out anyone when I know what I know. As of this posting, the time you posted at is one hour difference then when Sandi posted about letting it acclimate for a week. So I know you didn't post at the same time. So you were commenting on the acclimation, without reading all the responses. Also the advice of The entire project does NOT have to be redone. Take down the ceiling area that is buckling. Trim off enough from the boards on either edge to alleviate the problem, then put all the pieces back up. So says my carpenter husband. It's a simple fix. This in itself is horrible advice. This is tongue and groove, you may want to look up exactly what that is. To enlighten you, if you cut some off the tongue or groove. You would have to router each piece. This would be a total waste of time! If all you wanted to do is alleviate the buckling and not solve the problem. You would pull it down, reinstall, and have to trim down the last pieces installed. Just imagine if you "Take down the ceiling area that is buckling." Since it's tongue and groove it would be extremely difficult just to pull that area down. Then you may come up short when attempting to meet the area's not buckling. I'll mention about having to face nail when attempting to work a piece in, but I doubt you'd understand any of it. You may also want to read upon insulation/vapor barriers etc. There are very few areas in this country where the vapor barrier actually goes on the opposite side of the conditioned building envelope. However, no place in this country calls for vapor barrier in some areas of a ceiling, and none towards the peak of the structure. You would have to have minimal knowledge to understand this, and look at the pictures provided, plus an understanding of what you're viewing.

It should be possible to determine the age of the t&g - I cant tell from the photos what's what. If its original to house then you should keep it and create your own version of "coastal" instead of replicating exactly what you see out of a magazine (which is not to say you cuoldnt or shouldnt borrow colors/ inspiration from it). Why? Because early 1900s wood was still coming from the old growth forests that once covered most of eastern north America. It is an entirely different thing than the soft splintery farmed wood of today - crappy because of the growth accelerants its given. The old growth wood, even pine and fir isvery fine grained and hard as nails. and worth $$$ as salvage so I hope if you removed any of that that it didnt end up in landfill or firewood. If it is/was just some of that knotty pine panelling from the 50s-60s- still better quality than today, but imho removing it wouldnt be a major no-no as is removing/destroying the old growth stuff.

do you want glossy? glossy will show every imperfection, so make sure your install is nice and clean. If you're going to prime, try and do a very fine sand after the primer to hit any rough spots. clean well before painting. are you doing white paint? I think anything from eggshell to gloss would be fine. just depends on your preference. Use BM Advance. they have the best glossy paint. SW Pro Classic is 2nd. this one looks like a semi