Hey heavensabvus1, you keep getting rid of these critters but if you enhance the natural immunity on your plants, you may be able to deter these bugs for the long term. I recommend working some worm castings into your soil or better yet, innoculate your soil with worms. Worm castings contain an enzyme called chitinase which eats away the shells of many insects. It will take a while for your plants to absorb these enzymes but it will save you a lot of trouble down the road. You may also want to innoculate your soil with beneficial bacteria and fungi. You can buy prepackaged organic fertilizers like Kelloggs at Home Depot that already have these organisms. These organisms form a symbiotic relation with your plant and soil rhizosphere and protect the plant and inhibit insect attacks by several mechanisms. One of these mechanisms is the direct infection of insects by some of the fungal or microbial organisms. Some of these microbial organisms, the bacillus species for example, are naturally found in the soil and certain bacteria and fungi can directly infect and eventually kill harmful insects. To get rid of your pests, I would also highly recommend putting out ant bait stations. Ants innoculate plants with aphids in order to create a steady supply of sweet plant sap. The ants pretty much farm the aphids. By getting rid of ants around your property, you should see a dramatic decrease in your aphid population. To directly kill the aphids, I recommend using Chrysanthemum tea. Chrysanthemum contains a chemical called Pyrethrin which act as a mild natural insecticide. You will have to spray your trees every couple of days for about a week or two untill the insects finally realize its futile. The aphids will eventually come back and you will have to spray again but hopefully your tree has absorbed enough chitinase from the worm castings and also your beneficial bacteria and mycohrizzal fungi would have established itself well enough in your potting soil that even if the bugs did come back, they will take one bite out of your plant, vomit a little, and scuddle to your neighbors yard for some greener pastures :) Beware of those ant bait traps around pets, small children and rain however. If it rains heavily in your area, the poison can get washed into your soil. I try to stay organic but I haven't found a good way of getting rid of ant aside from the bait stations. Good luck with your citrus!

I'm fond of how-to information, which appeals to my need-to-know personality as an information geek; and luckily that type of information is so readily available these days. I started in my mother's kitchen as a child, reading a few cookbooks and booklets that were more than just recipes; good basic training as a kid in 4-H, and bless a really great Home Economics teacher in high school where I caught the cooking/baking bug in earnest. The public library has been a good friend for ever and always - I can check out the shelves at the library and come up with videos, DVDs and great instructional books on nearly any subject concerning cooking and baking. And all those years of watching the pros on TV. I've purchased DVDs from King Arthur Flour on several subjects. I have Shirley O. Corriher's "Kitchen Secrets Revealed!" (I also recommend her books, CookWise and BakeWise). I've watched "Good Eats" videos and DVDs by Alton Brown since they were first available on TV and also checked them out from the library. I also have a bunch of books by Harold McGee, starting with "On Food and Cooking - The Science and Lore of the Kitchen". The Cooking Channel web site has "tons" of videos (http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/). So if you want to know something, it's out there.... I'm also a life-long believer in continuing education. There are so many classes available. I've taken classes in Greek Foods, Irish Foods, sausage making, home-canning, dehydrating, nutrition, how to write a recipe, even using a microwave oven back in the 1970's, bread classes of all kinds.... And then the old saying - knowledge isn't knowledge until you share it with others - which has led to a near lifetime of teaching food and nutrition classes in our community. Everything from 4-H, Girl Scouts, to elderly men at the senior center who were now in charge of cooking for the first time in their lives.... I couldn't begin to guess how many people have taken "Bread-in-a-Bag" classes - both youngsters and oldsters. General basic nutrition and cooking classes at the Food Bank. Cooking with commodities classes, using commodity foods distributed to low-income individuals and families. These classes have been well received and are great fun. I love food science and consider it a "good read", so you'll find a lot of technical manuals and college-level text books in my personal library. I want to know why something works or doesn't. As a Foods Judge at County Fairs I need to know judging standards, but also why one muffin, pie, cake, cookie, biscuit, loaf of quick or yeast bread, etc., isn't as good as another. What went wrong or right and to be able to share that information with entries in the competition. Those are technical skills not found in a recipe, but take years of self-study. Anyway, it's not just one thing and you'll have to find your own comfort and interest level. I've also had some very good mentors through the years. I'm always endearing myself to someone who knows - so I can learn from them. -Grainlady

LL --> when I was designing our kitchen, I did trial prep and baking to see the space I would need. I found that cooking prep on the whole needed less space as the process was sequential and the tools and the ingredients are not out for the entire duration. Having a water source in a prep sink actually reduced the amount of space. The rinsed veggies can drain right over the sink instead of in a colander on the counter. Baking on other hand needed multiple ingredients out for a longer time and more specialist tools were needed. Shifters, bowl for dry ingredients, wet ingredients, parchment paper, brushes, spatulas, measuring cups, bowls of stuff. The work area for kneading and rolling was also more. I could not spare two large prep areas and figured that I am unlikely to cook and bake at the same time. At least not larger more complicated recipes. So 36in for baking area and 40+for the prep.

These instructions were kindly submitted by members. Thanks to all who contributed! INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOW TO MAKE HYPERTUFA To begin, you will need the following: 1. A hypertufa recipe (There are many recipes! See the FAQ for some of the most popular ones.) 2. Fine Particle dust mask 3. Dishwashing gloves 4. Disposable latex or plastic gloves 5. A measuring (parts) container The "parts" container you use is the container you fill with the different ingredients. It can be a cup or a bucket, or anything in between. It is a volume container. 6. A plastic mixing container (a flat plastic pan or tub is preferable to a tall, deep one) 7. A bucket of clear water and a small container to dip the water 8. A prepared mold, form or idea for free form 9. Mold release product, if using a mold 10. Plastic wrap, or old dry cleaner bag or garbage bag to cover your work 11. The time to come back to your project and mist with water when needed 12. A shady place to keep it out of direct heat or sun 13. A barbeque brush, wire brush or other bristle to rough up the surface 14. Carving tools - chisels, files, nails, etc. to carve into the project if you wish 15. Patience for, at the VERY least, several hours to a couple of days, prior to removing your project from the form or mold and finishing the surface 16. Optional: a small tub or wading pool to set your project in to cure after it has dried for a couple days (drying is different from curing). This step allows the hypertufa to gain strength during the curing process. To any of the recipes, you will need to add water - a little bit at a time until the mix is just wet enough to hold a fist size without much water squeezing out or the mix slumping through your fingers. Let the mix sit a short time so that the additives (peat, perlite, vermiculite, sand, etc.) can soak up a bit of the liquid. Add a little more water, if needed. If you want to add colorant to any of the mixes, remember that dry colorant is added when all the dry ingredients are mixed. If adding liquid color, add it to your first addition of water. If you want the mix to be a bit stronger you can add either a small portion of liquid fortifier with the first addition of water or a pinch or two of fiber mesh to the first addition of water, being sure to swirl it around to distribute the fibers (the amount is subject to the size of the project). With fibers, you may end up with a hairy/stubby surface on your finished project. If you do not want a chia pet, burn the fibers off with a small torch. Be sure to use a release agent in your mold for hypertufa. Another way is to cover your mold with a thin layer of plastic before putting the hypertufa in. Plastic forms can be sparingly coated with concrete mold release, cooking spray, Vaseline, WD40, cooking oil, motor oil, etc. You can purchase large bags of perlite and vermiculite at a garden warehouse, co-op, concrete spply company, and farming supply stores. The cost savings is very good. Peat, perlite and vermiculite all come in various grades. Choose the grade you like best. Wear rubber dish gloves when thoroughly mixing your dry ingredients and the wet mix. Use the thinner disposable gloves for finer work. Use a mask made for fine dust and WEAR IT while measuring and mixing dry ingredients, and whenever you create dust during the finishing process. The mask can be reused several times. Remember that cement is a bonding agent and once in contact with moisture, begins to harden. As you are breathing, in and out, minute amounts of moisture in your lungs mix with the air all the time. ************************************************************************ I mix concrete and hypertufa with my hands, encased in (generic brand) Playtex Living Gloves. Take off your rings, bracelets, watches and necklaces. Put on your FINE particle dust mask and secure it. Keep it on until your mix is finished. You can use tools to mix if you wish, but I have found that there is nothing that mixes better than your hands. You can feel lumps, scrape out corners, turn over the mix, etc. much better with your hands than any other tool. Mix in a flat, rather than tall pan (dishpans, mortar mixing tubs available at HD or Lowe's, old kiddie wading pools, etc.). It's MUCH easier to move the heavy mix in a flat pan and it is also easier to get into all those nooks and crannies where unmixed stuff hides. Forget 5 gallon pails - they are awkward, my back can't take reaching down into the bottom of those things and if you are mixing a lot of stuff, your gloves won't be long enough. Whenever possible, mix on a worktable, plywood on sawhorses - anything that brings the mixing up to waist height rather than YOU bending over it. Measure the portland cement first. If it has hard lumps in it, stop and go buy a fresh bag. It has most likely absorbed moisture and gone bad. Use it at your own risk. Same with the UGH bagged stuff. Always store cement or UGH bagged mix in SEALED plastic containers like rubbermaid or 5 gallon pails (MUCH easier to move). I store mine in doubled plastic bags INSIDE of the SEALED 5 gallon plastic pails. It's humid here... When mixing concrete or hypertufa, first, thoroughly mix your dry ingredients (even if you use the UGH bagged stuff - it settles). Keep mixing for several minutes until EVERYTHING is mixed through and through. Get into the corners and all over the bottom of your mixing container because the unmixed stuff is hiding there, I assure you! When the dry stuff is thoroughly mixed, MEASURE your liquid (I REALLY hope you're using an acrylic admix instead of just water...HONEST - it makes a BIG difference) and add HALF of it to the dry stuff. Start mixing. It will be very lumpy and difficult to mix, but do it anyway - squish and squeeze. After all the stuff is EVENLY moistened, add a QUARTER of the REMAINING liquid. Work it in until the mix is evenly moistened. Check those corners and hiding places again, feeling for lumps and moosh them into the mixture. Continue adding liquid in SMALL amounts, mixing thoroughly after each addition, until the mix is the consistancy desired for your project. When in doubt, err on the dry side. If you are pouring your mix into a mold, as with concrete, the consistancy should be like THICK pancake batter. Brownie mix is too thick and cake batter is too thin. It should be JUST pourable. You should be able to scoop up the mix in your cupped hands and not have any running through your fingers. If you are making hypertufa for application to a mold, the mix should be thicker than brownie mix - more like soft cookie dough so you can pack it into or onto the mold you are using. If you are making hypertufa for freeform sculpting or handmolding, the mix should be like REALLY stiff cookie dough. It is much easier to ADD liquid to a mix that is too thick, than to scramble for dry ingredients to "tighten up" a mix that's too wet. This is PARTICULARLY true with concrete. Just because you used a certain amout of liquid today does not mean that you will use the exact same amount the next time. Relative humidity of the air and ingredients as well as the temperature have a LOT to do with this. Always measure and ALWAYS start with only HALF the liquid, then gradually add, mixing and mixing after each addition. Allow the mix to rest for about 10 minutes after it looks "right." Concrete (hypertufa, too) has to go through a stage called hydration, where all the dry stuff is getting wet and beginning to react chemically. With concrete, this is the stage when the mix begins to bubble. This is a good thing. Don't be in such a hurry that you rush this process, or you'll be sorry with hypertufa and REALLY sorry with concrete. "Thump" your mixing container sharply on the ground or worktable (if you're being kind to your back) several times to release air bubbles and settle the mix. The mix should begin getting warmer - this is good - it's chemistry in action. ************************************************************************