I have had some disappointing steaks recently, so I thought we could talk about what is a really good steak, and how do you make it?
To me, a really good steak has a dark crust, almost charred, faintly crunchy, glistening with butter but not any hint of sogginess. The inside is deep red, rare or raw, never ever cooked brown, dripping with bloody juice and molten fat. Salt and meat and fat. If there is a sauce, it is rich, intense and stands up to the meat. The sauce has enough identity that you could eat it by itself.
One disappointing steak was last week, at a popular local ''southern eats'' restaurant. They do a mean falling-off-the-bone pork rib and a decent batter-fried oyster, but their version of rare ribeye is simply a steak slapped on the grill long enough to get cross-hatched char marks, not long enough to build any crust, and too long for the interior to stay really red. It was a flabby piece of brown meat, from a grill that wasn't hot enough.
Another disappointing steak was tonight, at a well-known chef's restaurant in the Motor City. Hanger steak, reasonably brown on the outside and appropriately reddish on the inside, but sliced then piled up and soaked in what was supposed to be a demi-glace, but only made the meat soggy. Better than the ribeye but I expected better yet.
I've had a few good steaks in the past year. One was at a Seattle steakhouse, El Gaucho. They really do their steaks right. It was everything I described above, a really excellent, old-school, arteries-be-damned steakhouse broil job. Four were steaks we cooked at home. There was a bavette, a beautiful piece of meat, thin and riven through with luscious fat, oiled and salted and buttered, then seared a minute per side on a smoking hot cast iron pan. And a rib-eye, treated similarly with plenty of pepper, finished with more butter. Finally a tenderloin, sliced in 2'' medallions, peppered, with a Grand Marnier sauce. Oh, there were some thick lamb chops, rubbed with oil, rosemary, salt and garlic, then pan cooked in burning butter and olive oil until the smoke alarm sounded (who needs a timer when you have a lousy vent and a poorly placed alarm?). But that's not a steak, I guess.
If I had the kitchen I want, it would have a major broiler, I would learn the secrets of a classic steakhouse, and I'd die young.
What about you, my fellow carnivores? What is your perfect steak, do you buy it or do you cook it at home, and if the latter what is your tried-and-true technique? Are you a low and slow, or a high and fast? A lean or a fat? A thick or a thin? A sauce or a salt?
lindac
foodonastump
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