My 1997 Stihl TS 510 Brazilian made cut off saw (same metal base as a chainsaw, carb's a Tillotson) ran well for 10 minutes, then lost power if under load, but would spin up if not under load and sound ok, but bog down again if loaded. So, I replaced the ignition coil with Stihl part and it coughed once after a couple pulls but didn't start, then I have a very short shot of ether, ran for .5 second, then, no more signs of starting. Pulled carb, looked at hoses, cleaned carb with brake cleaner, diaphragms look good, it ran a second on first pull, then no coughs, nothing. The upper seal on the carb, just below air filter is not completely torn, but is thin and tattered. There is a very small gas leak, a few drips around the hose attachment onto the big rubber fitting that pushes with some effort into the metal hole the hoses run through to the gas tank. IDK if the Tillotson is original, or the last guy had problems? I took the hoses off, blew through them, no visible issues. I think it's a fuel issue. What's my next move?

It depends a lot on the scooter and the batteries. For example mine takes 2 batteries which last charged forever. In fact I have still not had it drop a single bar of the charge. I have a charger for it here in the house where I keep it and if I have taken it out and done a long drive with it I will put the charger on it. Some only take one battery and it is a smaller battery so therefore it will have less of a charge and not last as long. The actual battery life will depend on the battery itself. Most of the descriptions for them in the specs will tell you the type and number of them and the strength and charging times etc. When buying a used one that is important to make sure it still has good functioning batteries and a charger because those items are not cheap. I made slip on covers for my arm rests because I don't like having my arms on the plastic. They were so easy to sew up, I am going to make several pairs of Gloves for her in multiple colors. lol We don't have much of a winter here so I should be ok using my carrier even in winter because the cover that came with it is a super thick heavy duty cover. We can use the lift in the pickup but it would still be outside. It might work in the Hummer but then we would have no extra room in the back of the Hummer at all, it is not very spacious back there even with the seat backs down. Mine is a larger model scooter but my husband and neighbor easily lifted it in and out of the back of the pickup.The overall weight of the Shoprider Deluxe scooter without batteries is only 176lbs,and has a maximum range of 25 miles on a charge. one feature that I had not really thought about but now I don't think I would consider one with out is the seat that swivels for easy in and out, plus lift up arm rests. I do wish my seat had up and down adjustments which some do. It does have a nice headlight and tail lights as well as a horn but the horn is not very loud. I have one of those bulb horns on my three wheel bike that is much louder. I have added a nice cup holder that will hold my metal Bubba insulated water bottle. I got that at walmart for $8 in the bike dept.I use one that is made for a bike on my wheelchair and bike. The ones they try to sell for scooters are priced too high in most cases. I put a zip tie in my basket in a loop through the weaves and I have a carabiner hooked to it, when I put my purse in the basket I hook the straps into the carabiner and that way it is secure so no one can just come by and grab it out of my basket. I put my mailing labels with my name and address on it in various places so I can always identify it. We bought a heavy duty bike lock up system with a strong cable and lock at harbor freight so I can use the cable to lock it onto the carrier if we will be leaving it on there for a while, like at a restaurant. People are so brazen these days it would not surprise me to come back out and find it has been unloaded and stolen. With the cable locking it to the carrier it would at least slow them down. My husband gets kind of obsessive with the tie downs he put on it to carry it on the carrier but that is just him. I think one good tie down across the center floor of the scooter and around the carrier would be enough. The carrier has tie down areas all over it.

I looked at everything online, thought hard about a wall-hung Eurostyle vanity only one drawer deep. I just don't think a wall-hung is a good idea. I will at some point end up having a knee or hip "go out" temporarily and will need to grab the counter and put my weight on it. If I do that on a wall-hung, I can pull it off the wall. So I am back to having a vanity with legs. No matter how I look at them, the sinks with legs that are 18" deep and under just do not have the counter room or "presence" that I need. That brings me to Console sinks that do come in 48" widths. Some of them will work with my walker, but I am not sure they will with a wheelchair. I even visited a showroom yesterday on my way home from an appointment. The salesman agreed that I should not ever lean on a wall-hung cabinet, and said he had not seen anything like what I need. I was going to recommend a cabinet maker, but I told him that my builder could to the job. I do really prefer to have my Parys counter top, since I already have it installed as a windowsill. I think that my best solution to maximize floor space, get some drawers, and have a counter in front of both of my mirrors is to have Jim build it. Here is my attempt to draw it with my poor perspective skills. I suggested the Parys top and Wilsonart laminate for the legs and drawer fronts. Jim was worried about the laminate chipping off, so I looked only at the Heavy-Use Wilsonart. I found a metalic silver-gray that seems like a good fit with the Parys. This is how a 64" wide vanity would fit in front of my two med cabs and lights. This one is 35" high. The ADA says 34", but I sit high and I think I can get away with the extra inch. This mock-up is without the sink being taken into consideration. I imagine there will actually be a 10" drawer to the left, then the sink, and then a drawer to the right of the sink. The sink will be centered at the 21" point, going from left to right, so that it is centered under the left mirror. Then I will have a stool to use to sit under the right mirror. If I use the asymmetric sink that I found above, the counter would be 16" if I want it open to the front of the sink. I believe I have identified a Cambria fabricator where I could go to discuss the issue of how much lip of Parys I would have to leave in front of the sink. And ask if I can leave the back of the counter open, taking the sink's opening to the wall. They have to be able to transport the counter top safely. I might be able to fit the sink in an 18" counter if they let me leave the back open. That is the deepest counter I will consider. If I use any of the sinks that protrude out, then I will have the counter made 12 to 14" deep. I guess my next step is to go talk to the stone guys.

IGNORE it all, means nothing. A police officer can only give out a parking ticket for parking in a fire lane or a Handicap spot on private property, unless the other spots are written into the city ordnance as a violation. If in doubt ask a cop or read your city ordinances but until it clearly becomes a written ordnance all other parking spaces are open game. If they called a cop he or she wouldn't even call a tow truck, it's up to the property owner, and in most cases the owner must have a sign posted with the name of the tow company and where your car will be held to have it towed (ever seen a will tow sign in one of these spots?) so odds are they will never tow your car. So park in any takeout, pickup or Pro parking spot you want. They could ask you to move your car or call a tow truck it it's posted, but they won't. The worst they could do is ban you from the property and then have you arrested for trespassing on private property if you come back, but they won't.