There is no HVLP paint. That describes the painting equipment and the paint itself could be just about anything, even flat latex, but if they're talking an automotive-quality hardened finish, that's something else indeed. Powder coat is expensive as it involves an oven big enough for the door to fit in, in order to melt the plastic powder. It should last a long long time and is very resistant to physical and weather abuse. Cheapo paint will need to be touched up or resprayed from aerosol cans every five or so years and cost twelve dollars each time. Automotive quality finishes last as long as powder coat ones and tend to be only slightly less durable. If it's a real iron door, not cheap tubular steel with stamped mesh screening and such, it's going to be expensive from the get-go, so it becomes a major item versus a cheap replaceable screen door and a major item might just deserve a thirty year powder coat finish.

Thanks for the tips. There are 450 of these trivets, so sanding the area is too difficult at this time. The acrylic seems to hold well and these hang on a wall anyway, so they don't see wear. The problem seems to be that when the latex dries, the water, which made up the body of the paint, doesn't leave enough solids behind to cover the black, when it evaporates. The current painter applied a gloss over the entire finished job and it looks great, however, we weren't aware up to this point that two coats were necessary. I can recall these trivets and repaint with a flat black latex (since they are clear-coated anyway), if you knowledgable people think it will make it easier on our painter and allow a one-coat finish. We do these every year and have been for the past 50 years and want to make life easy on our painter. Opinions please.

Raehelen, Good Luck with your "ORB-effect"! Modern-Masters has some very nice Metallics, & other faux-finish products. They have a SUPERIOR water-based "Dead-Flat-Varnish". On average, it retails for ~$50/gal. Sounds spendy, I know! But...to have a FLAT, Water-based, & LONG working-time product...it ain't cheap!! I think the "Baroque" dull-silver/gold look is SO cool! Wish I had crown-moldings to try it on!! More info. on the link... Faron Here is a link that might be useful: Modern Masters info.

Hi again Eleena! If I were painting your trims... * I'd grab some White-base Cabinet-Coat (by Insl-x), & a VERY high quality brush for latex paints (by this I mean $10-$15). * Priming isn't "essential" under CC, but because trim can take a "beating"...! * Brush on an even 1st coat. Just a few strokes. Then get away from it 'till next day. * If you're fussy...lightly sand w/ a 220-grit sponge, remove dust, and brush on 2nd coat evenly. * STAY OUT OF IT after 1 minute. It needs a good day to level itself out & firm up b4 handling. >>> Done properly, AND PATIENTLY(!), this stuff looks stunning. >>> It's water-based, with urethane-resins for toughness. >>> To me, it didn't smell much at all! >>> It's ~ $39/gal; and available through most ACE stores. Call first. The SKU # for the White-base is 1214238. Other paint stores may have it too, but it's not widespread. >>> I just did a sample-board this winter where I work, and most people just go "Wow"! Bottom-line...You won't be disappointed by this stuff. It does require a little more time for leveling, but I feel it's worth it! Faron