I'd agree on the surface with the comments above, but also say its possible that there was a reason (or multiple) for this. If you have significant concerns, I'd ask someone from the installation company to walk you through their measuring methodology as it applies here. A few possibilities: - Racked opening. You can see that the gaps are large in two corners and smaller in the other two. While a uniform 1/4" gap would be great, its rare in practice, especially in older homes. - Stepped jamb. Looks like there was an internally hinged unit in there previously, those often have a step in the jamb where the panel closes against. The gap on the face would look much larger than the gap at the smallest point in those cases. Its also possible that there was a step/stop of some sort that they couldn't definitively deterimine whether or not it would be able to be removed at the time of measure. We see striaght through on the side in your measurement shot, but we don't know what that looked like before, or what the other sides looked like. - They may have planned for a buck frame (generally a 3/4" wood frame) but in the end there wasn't clearance for it. - As far as being secured, ideally there would be shims placed on the other sides as well, however that isn't always done in practice. If this is still in progress it wouldn't be out of line to ask for it. The installer may say that the foam offers support and locks the window in place which is not lying, but shims would be best practice. - As far as finishing, was interior finish part of the scope of work? Typically it would be, I'd imagine that they would add some sort of finishing piece to cover up the gap/foam and make it look complete. At the end of the day, based only on these pictures, it looks to me like the only thing that you will really lose here is 1/4-1/2" of glass on each side of the window. That said, again, I'd definitely have a talk with them about why the gap appears to be so large and go from there.

Wow!! What an immense amount of arrogance!! This is why self-proclaimed 'experts' are usually to be avoided or at the very least, their info approached with a large degree of caution. You are so wrapped up in you own self importance to completely ignore what I might have posted. If you care (or even bother) to read more carefully, I did acknowledge the presence of psyllids in my very first post. I am also a practicing consulting horticulturists - not at all an "Internet only" person - and I am actively engaged on a daily basis diagnosing plant issues. I do this for a living!! I am very familiar with boxwood - apparently much more so than you as the self proclaimed expert are - and have encountered all manner of boxwood issues. If.....and I mean if.....leafminers are present, they are not present in any large numbers or the damage would be far more obvious.....as it is with the mites. "You started arguing without possessing much love and experience with boxwood. That`s your big issue. Be careful on such discussion because you can meet real professional . I am not going to teach you for free here and maintain this discussion." Again, wow!! You have no idea what experience or knowledge I might have with this plant or just how much of a professional I might be. I have openly shared my background and experience whereas you just claim yours with nothing to substantiate. And what is the title of this book you supposedly authored?? Perhaps it is the type of scientific research and detailed plant morphology that we could all benefit from. Or maybe it is just another unsubstantiated bold Internet claim...... btw, I have already been taught by a lot of very skilled academic minds. That's what a college degree will do for you :-) I certainly don't require your half-a**ed instructions!!

the media looks very dry ... are these new rootings?? stressed plants somehow attract problems ... so a good start is to perfect watering etc ... look at the backs of the leaves.. though you usually cant see mites .. you can usually tell they are there ... they are suckers.. so as they do such ... it makes the front side of the leaf start looking bad ... ken https://duckduckgo.com/?q=spider+mites+on+ivy&t=ffcm&iax=images&ia=images

I agree that it isn't his job to re-engineer old cabinets, but it is his job to make me aware of the situation so I can hire a contractor to fix it before he installs it if that's what is required to do it so the countertops are long-lasting, and if it's not something he wants to do himself. He didn't tell me whether they were level or not when making his template for cutting. Also, unfortunately, I know very little about granite countertop installation and had no idea this was a potential issue to be aware of. The cabinet boxes are not as old as the house, but there are plenty of oddball things in the house. They were installed within the past ten years- the last owner did a layout change in the kitchen. The contractor I hired to do all of the other work in the house took a look before he left today and said he would add more shims, and that it probably should have at least had more wood added for the countertop to sit on. I really like the gentleman who owns the granite shop. It's pretty clear they are hard working and small, family owned. I'm sure he did the best with what he has available. I just wish I had known beforehand, and I would have asked our renovator/contractor to adjust the cabinets so they were level.