Blackroot is a danger to new cutting and can be caused by not using clean everything for taking and rooting cuttings. It is also a good idea to let the cut end callus over for about 5 days. This cuts down on the amount of moisture the cutting can get. yes they were getting moisture through the stems much like cut flowers. Cold and too much moisture will cause the stems to rot. Read my post on my amazing discovery about zonal geranium cuttings in this forum. I put my cuttings on a heat mat and never lost 1 cutting. I Started them the last week of February and right now they are bushy plants and 1 even has a flower stalk I have been growing Geraniums from cuttings for 30 years or more and I disagree with Faye Brawner. Sure some geraniums will root easily without rooting hormone but not all. In my years of doing this I have found there is a difference in rooting between varieties and even colors. It casts more to buy 1 Geranium than it does to buy rooting hormone that will do lots of cuttings so why take a chance. One thing of note--Always take your cutting from just below a leaf node. All roots come from the place a leaf has grown. If there is no node below the ground you won't get roots. Look carefully at any flower with side branches and you'll see that they too come from a leaf node

Hi jojo, we love our OKM stove! The oven has a more stable and accurate temperature than our old one. Each of the burners has a double burner, so it can do both fairly high heat and a low simmer. There are a couple drawbacks though. The ovens are small, and the left "oven" is a height-adjustable broiler rather than a true 2nd oven. The racks are also a spaced too closely together to fit cake pans and pies on the middle 2 racks. The stove also has a little quirk in that the right burners sometimes have a hard time lighting if the oven is on (we use a match or use the left hand burners when that happens). We still love the stove though. It is magnificent and everything about it (the knobs, the doors) feels so solid. One thing that is helpful is that there are a lot of repair folk in our area that specialize in these old stoves, and a wonderful man checked it out and adjusted the burners for us when we installed it. I might be more reluctant to get one if that were not the case.

Hi puddinface ru still coming on this forum i notice that a lot of the postings are quite old wheras u seem to be new to it like me i have found grreat relief in actually looking at other womens opinions on the varied problems related to menopause id love to actually chat on here to someone rather than feel as though every time i write something i dont get any response at all i live in england and i do not have any friends my own age who are going through what i am going through at present which can be very scarey at times i can only try talking to my partner who bless him does try to understand and listen but he is 27 works long hours and i stay home all day it seems to me that in usa women have more actual info on perimenopause than here in the uk anyway if your out there and you read this id really like it if you felt like giving me a reply ok

What I would do... Remove all the salt and water from the brine tank and make sure there's no solidified salt at the bottom. Any solidified salt can be dissolved by hot tap water. Put 4 to 5 gallons of water in the brine tank and add one bag of salt. Note the water level with the salt added. Get some Iron Out or Super Iron Out and dissolve 3/4 cup in a gallon of warm water in a bucket or bottle. Add that solution to the brine well (the 4" tube where the float lives) and wait two hours (for the salt to dissolve and make the brine). After two hours do a manual regeneration. After that regeneration the control valve should have replaced the water in the brine tank. Add water to the level noted in previous paragraph. Make sure there's enough salt to cover the water. If not, add salt. Dissolve another 3/4 cup in a gallon of warm water in a bucket or bottle and add that solution to the brine well. Wait two hours, with no or as little water use as possible, and do another manual regeneration. Now your resin is as clean as it can be and your resin is returned to as much hardness removal capacity as it's condition will allow. Ger some hardness test strips and test the water after the softener after the second regeneration. The strips should show ZERO hardness. Test the softened water again before the softener regenerates. The water should hold ZERO hardness all the way till the next scheduled or demand initiated softener regeneration. If not, then see the paragraph below. If the problem is not solved the resin is fouled, the resin is depleted, the water conditions have changed and the softener is no longer set correctly for those conditions, or the softener is not operating correctly. If problem is resolved you need to be using Iron Out or a comparable product on a routine schedule determined by the amount of iron in the water. Please let us know what you find out.