You shouldn't prune anything green from a plant in steep decline. 'Green' is the color of the pigment chlorophyll which is essential to photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants make their food - carbohydrate/ sugar. Also, the first phase of the shedding process is resorption, during which the plant reclaims and recycles nutrients and other biocompounds already paid for in terms of energy outlay. The plant has the look of having being chronically over-watered or suffering from a high level of dissolved solids in the soil. Your pot does have a drain hole - yes? If you've fertilized with an organic fertilizer or one deriving its nitrogen from urea, the damage could potentially be ammonium toxicity. Ideally. you would depot the tree, inspect for root rot, and correct if required by cutting all rot back to sound tissue. If you find no root rot, make sure your watering is under control. The oft parroted advice to water when the top 2.5-5cm of soil is dry is a recipe for over-watering. Unless your pot is 10cm deep or less, it doesn't matter a whit whether the top 5cm of the soil is dry or not. There are few if any fine roots there anyway; and if there are, it's proof of over-watering. What's important is the moisture level at the bottom of the pot, and you can determine that by using a 'tell'. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. You didn't say much about what else you're doing for the plant, culturally? Al

Hi, I'm in NYC and have had two different cheap compact front loaders ( An Italian made Whirlpool and a 10 year old Malber) over the last 10 years and currently have a Bosch dishwasher. I use both liquid and powder detergents in the washer and just dose carefully. I usually use All Free and Clear for a family member who has significant sensitivities to all fragrances and dyes. I play around with a variety of detergents including various ethnic specific detergents for myself. I think I'm becoming obsessed. LOL Yes, IMHO too much of any softener or liquid detergent and cold water will gunk up and eventually kill any washer. Warm and hot water are your friends. In my building I usually only get between 105- 115 degree water which isn't all that hot, but my machine does not dumb down the water temp so I'm ok for now. I will be adding a tiny point of use water heater just to get true hot water washes. My dishwasher did not do a good job with Kirkland detergent and only adequately with Cascade complete, however I ordered Dropps from Amazon and had better results, but still not as good as my older Bosch I have in my weekend place. Good luck. I think you will enjoy having clean clothes when you want them instead of waiting for the service to bring them back. And the pleasures of a dishwasher are never to be underrated.

I think my crown jewel is Euro Persil Color Megaperls As a pretext, I generally avoid OBAs, lean to 'green', and keep fragrance to nil or very light (at least for doses that I use). Generally, my clothes are too stained, but will use a pretreater, typically Ecover or Puracy when I do Whites: Ecover Zero Powder or BioKleen Premium Plus Colors: I rotate this most frequently. Currently going through BioKleen Cold Water, but also Mrs Meyers Rosemary, Euro Persil Color, Puracy, Miele Color, Cheer, Seventh Gen Ultra Power, Ecover liquid...so many great options Darks: Perwoll Dark for light soil, but the fragrance is borderline Towels and other items that are suds factories: I'm sold on Rosalie's Bed Sheets: Some rotation, but LeBlanc is great. Synthetics/Sports/Fleece: Charlie's Soap liquid with liquid non-chlorine bleach. Additives: STPP for powders, Sodium Percarbonate for Whites and Powder, H2O2 with liquids Softeners: Not my thing generally, but occasionally Vaska or even other 'green' ones (except Mrs Meyers Lemon Verbena..artificial smell)

One aspect of which to be aware is that some detergents are formulated for the fabric to retain some residual surfactants, possibly related to scent retention, which can cause some "sudsing" in the rinse. IMO if the rinse water is a bit bubbly but does not feel slippery to the fingers, then there's no cause for concern. If the photo hafamily5 shows above is the final rinse, then that does appear to be a problem being that the water looks cloudy and sudsy moreso than just aerated/bubbly. Excess sudsing of course is not a good thing ... but UNDERdosing detergent is also bad and can contribute to musty/smutzy washers due to laundry soils not being sequestered in the wash water and drained away, adhering instead to the interior of the outer tub, exterior of the inner drum, etc. Also build-up of mineral deposits in hard water situations, which can lead to worn seals (due to mineral residue accumulating at the interface between the seal and rotating shaft when residual water dries), which in turn leads to bearing failure when water breaches the seal. The warnings I hear about "suds getting into the bearings" is nonsense. Water doesn't get into the bearings (unless the seals are compromised) so why would suds? Suds is just super-bubbly wash water. Regards to powder vs. liquid. Liquids are thick and sticky and have preservatives in the formula, present more "chemical" formulation challenges for manufacture than powders. Contrary to popular belief they don't mix instantly into the water, they need to "dissolve" into it. Much of this can be avoided by washing the majority of loads in hot water (if using the designated Normal cycle which is the most-restricted on temperature where hot may be 95°F ... but pay attention to the characteristics of your machine to learn its quirks), or warm (and hot when appropriate) on other more-aggressive cycles, and regular/recurring use of the Heavy or Sanitary or Allergen cycle to get a temperature more toward actual hot. If you run 7 loads per week for a family, that doesn't mean wash 5 in cold, one in warm, and one in hot. It means wash 1 in cold, 1 or 2 in warm and the rest in some version of hot. IMO.