Fly

I'm no expert but do appreciate a nice looking wall

Depending on the size of the hole in question will direct you to how to repair. Get clean edges - cut away any loose paper etc -Most will require some type of "filler" - I have done the stuff the hole with newspaper, mesh tape & combination thereof depending on the size of the hole.

- Really large holes require cutting out a square and retro fitting a piece of drywall then tapping/mudding

The best advice I can give you is to spread the dry wall mud thin, let dry, - use putty knife to remove any dry protruding mud, repeat - until you get even with surrounding dry wall - last coat sand - - most people fail - they either get the "more is better" mentality or feel that putting more on (no pun intended) - will achieve a better result - Too much will take waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to long to dry & increase risk of cracking

Just my modest tried opinion

Good luck!

I'll link a method I've found useful in the past...basically allows you to patch the hole without using tape...

If you don't have any drywall scraps around, Lowes sells pieces JUST for patching so you don't have to buy a whole sheet.

melanie

Here is a link that might be useful: Step by step instructions for patching drywall

I don't have much advice for you, but I did just see drywall repair clips featured in This Old House (apparently you can buy them at any hardware store). They hold the new piece of drywall in place so you can tape it. I also found this article that could be helpful for you. Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: This Old House patching drywall article

I usually use one of the large thicker paint sticks and screw it in place with a drywall screw above and below the opening. Then screw a perfectly sculpted patch to the hole. Apply joint compound and mesh tape and spread the joint compound out at least double the size of the patch if not more to make sure you don't have a bumpy looking area. Try to make as smooth as possible without thick lines. Use a metal blade and large joint compound knife to apply the joint compound.

Don't sand the joint compound, rather use a damp large grout sponge to smooth things out, but be very light on the hand as it goes really quick this way. If there are ridges I usually use the joint compound knife to scrape it down, running the blade smooth against everything.

For the repair to be minimally apparent, I suggest the following. I'm not a professional drywaller so my technique may not be the same as done by a pro but with a bit of patience you can get a good result.

Scribe some horizontal lines at the top and bottom of your hole using a level.

Saw along those lines until you reach the adjacent studs.

Using a utility knife, cut the paper 3/4" beyond the edge of the stud - on both sides, top and bottom (this will be the middle of the stud). Scribe a vertical line connecting the ends and cut it with the utility knife. Remove all of the drywall.

Using a scrap piece of drywall, "fit" it slightly smaller than the opening. Attach it to the stud with a couple drywall screws (countersunk) on each side.

Fill the cut lines with drywall compound, embed drywall tape into the wet mud, press smooth with a 4" drywall knife and apply a VERY THIN coat of mud on top of the tape. Walk away and don't do anything for 2 days!

Run your knife over the dried mud to knock off any high spots. Using a wider 6" knife, apply another thin coat of mud, feathered a couple inches beyond the initial application.

After 24 hours, lightly sand, apply another coat if necessary repeating as outlined above. Sand the outer edges of the patch such that you cannot "feel" the repair when you pass fingers across the joint. Possibly repeat the steps again if you're not satisfied!

The secret is to not apply too much mud at a time and allowing it to dry. Don't try being a hero and doing the job in one day. The more mud you apply, the more apparent the repair will be, or the more sanding that will be necessary.

Hope this gives you the courage to tackle the task. Good luck.

Lastly, once it's dry, don't forget to prime the area 1st. And try to roll the primer on as well(instead of brushing). You basically want it to blend with the paint already there. I've skipped that step before and you can see exactly where each patch is (that is if you have more than one.)

Thanks so much y'all...lyfia, I had not heard about a grout sponge before -- that's a good idea--I'm better with those. And jejvtr, interesting about building up layers. I haven't done that before. I'll try it. The This Old House piece that hoosiergirl linked to says the same thing (thanks, hoosier!).

And mjsee, WOw, that's kind of fascinating. Using the outer layer of paper as the tape. I could see it happening *if* you scrape away the outer layer on the surrounding drywall and plan to replace it with the patch paper, iykwim? As the commenter said, there would be a bmp there because of the double thickness. I'm almost wanting to make a drywall hole in some drywall and try that. It wouldn't be structural, but it would be cool : )

Another tip that I don't think was mentioned, is to cut the size of the patch first after a thorough investigation of the repair to be done. Hold your patch up to the wall and then simply draw around the patch. The patch will then be an exact fit.

I absolutely swear by this method. I followed it exactly to fix a hole where there had been an old intercom and you'd never know it had been patched.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drywall repair

andee, that is amazing. It helps so much. I love that it doesn't use drywall tape, but it has the solid backing that will make it less vulnerable. That stuff is the bane of my existence. Putting the backing pieces in will be DH's job, then I"ll come along and very patiently apply several layers of mud (I need to buy a 10" knife--I've seen them at GW but do I ever buy them? Noooooo. Oh well, pay up girl : )) and follow the steps at your site.

This is really a big thing for me, folks -- if I can do fixes just with screwed-in backing and NO tape, it will be the dawn of a brand new day! Thank you all so much.

I have always used the fiber mesh method, You can buy the patches at the hardware store or I have also used the mesh tape and filled in my own. Dap has a spackle call "featherlite?" that is super fluffy and light and drys quickly.

The key is to be as smooth as possible in all stages of applying so sanding is cut down. A wet damp sponge smoothed over your last layer works nicely too for minimal sanding.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tape mesh method

Thanks, neverending! I've never seen mesh tape that big -- only in rolls for attaching cement board before tiling. I've gone and done a first coat just over the attached replacement board and the screws that hold the backing on...tomorrow I will have time to go get a 10" blade I suspect will help me immensely. Those lines from the smaller blades have always bugged me.

You all have been SO helpful! Another G'web victory! : )

Just wanted to report back that the close-fitting replacement piece followed by layers of mud, using a 10" blade, worked better than anything I've ever tried! No more tape over the edges for me. Not sure that it would work with all holes but it sure did the trick here. I won't dread large drywall repair anymore, which is a great step forward for me. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

A hole in a wall is a hard thing to cover up. Especially if you want to make it look beautiful. I think you might have the best chance if you fit the hole. I'm no professional, so I'd suggest getting someone to do it for you. http://mikesdrywallservice.com/services.htm 

They got good advise on how to make the repair and reported back that the job had been done -- five years ago.

My DH is the best at this and he taught me! The trick is to sand well between applications of mud. I did a hole and it is perfect-smooth, undetectable. Just mud and sand, mud and sand, mud and sand...