Well, avocados are very particular about how their roots receive water, Suzi. Sitting in standing water is sure death for an avocado tree. Which is why Fallbrook and N. San Diego County were so perfect - all planted on slopes. Avocados prefer being planted on a slope so the water will drain away. Their feeder roots prefer water to pass by them. Yes, they need a LOT of water. And the only reason they are still hanging on in our area, is because they really don't grow well anywhere else (as opposed to citrus, another water-hungry commercial crop). And, the fact that people are willing to pay $1.50 to 2.00 a piece for them. But, unlike citrus, which are being successfully grown in other areas of California, due to water prices having climbed to the outrageous amounts we see here in San Diego, Orange, and Los Angeles counties (and to almost the same extend in Riverside and San Bernardino), avocados have not been able to acclimate to the Coachella or Imperial Valleys. So, they're hanging in there, in Fallbrook, still. So, standing water is about the worst thing you can have for avocados, proper drainage is critical to having them survive. Ben, to your questions: Jan Boyce, Reed and Sharwil all sound like excellent avos, but will my limited spacing realistically allow for these cultivars because of their size? - You can keep them pruned down to size using drop-crotch pruning. Those 3 cultivars are worth the pruning, trust me. How close can I plant to the wall? Naïvely, I was thinking I could just plant within a couple feet and just have a bed extending to about 3-3.5 ft from the wall, but thanks to you all, I’m questioning how realistic that is now, considering the size potential for mammoth-sized trees - at least 6 feet. Preferably 10 to 12 feet. I think raising the root ball up in a raised bed will help considering my poorly-draining soil. Since I don’t have a slope, I plan to put in a French drain at bottom to hopefully help with drainage. - Yes, Yes, Yes! Thing BIG mound or berm. Excellent option. And, a french drain below the mounds, a couple of feet down, sloping away from the trees, hopefully towards your front yard (and out to the street if you don't need the water elsewhere in your yard). I would also see what's happening with your next door neighbor's drainage. Is it draining over to your yard? Are you dealing with your and THEIR water? If so, make your neighbor fix their drainage issues. That's really a big no-no, as some else's water draining over into your yard could affect your home's foundation and that is grounds for a lawsuit. I would make your mound or berm at least 1 to 2 feet high (if you can make it 3' high, that would be superb) and 3 to 5 feet around (or, just continue the berm straight across for all 3 trees). Put down at least 20 pounds of gypsum spread around the base of each of the trees, plant and then mulch the area with 6 inches of woody mulch keeping the material about 6-8 inches away from the tree trunk. Of course, the french drain system should be below the mounds, about a foot or two down in the ground. You can also spread gypsum down into your french drain system as well. That gypsum application will really, really make a difference in the drainage of your soil. And, lastly, it wouldn't hurt to apply one application of Agri-Fos at planting, then again in 1 month. Apply a 3rd application of Agri-Fos in Feb or March, and then once a year in Feb or March thereafter, just to make sure you don't end up with Phytophthora issues due to water built up in the soil. You can also apply it to your citrus for the same reasons. An ounce of prevention can save you a pound of cure (and agony) later on. If avocado roots are shallow, how deep do they typically go? How much spacing tree to tree, at minimum, should I allow? - the feeder roots are very, very shallow. Most exist within the top 6" of your top soil (as compared to citrus feeder roots, which exist in the top 12 to 18" inches of your soil, and they're considered shallow rooted, so you can see how very shallow avocado feeder roots are). That's why their leaf drop is so critical to their survival. They literally make their own mulch, and if removed, it will affect the health of your trees (and even kill them, eventually, believe it or not.) Their feeder roots will grow into their leaf mulch/mold. They have very sensitive root systems, and do not like to be transplanted after being established. But, they can send down fairly deep anchor or tap roots. And being between the 2 houses should getting enough sunlight be a concern? - It can be. I have an inherited (was planted here before we bought the house and moved in) that was planted in the worst possible spot on my entire acre for an avocado - in nearly full shade, at the lowest part of my yard where the large part of my yard drains down to via two large swale systems. It is amazing it is still alive. I would have transplanted it, but it was too large and established. I figured I'd kill it for sure if I tried. It has produced 3 avocados for me since we moved in, in 2009. As opposed to my Lamb Hass, in the ideal location (full sun, on a nice slope), that produced about 30 avos this season (3rd season), and will have over 100 this next year. So, sun is pretty important. If you're sure they will get at least 6 hours of sun, I think they'll be okay. They might grow slower, and produce a little less, but, considering avocado trees can be prolific producers, that may not be a bad thing with 3 avos, lol! I would plant the Reed in the middle, as it is the most columnar in growth habit, and then simply keep them all down to about 15' and you're good! Patty S.

LG has a cooktop with a bridge feature for a griddle. Newegg has it for 1800. The new Thermador/Gaggenau is zoneless and would work but is expensive. AEG has zoneless cooktops without US service support shipping from the UK. 1k with 150 Fedex. These are on their third generation. An oven below or dual setup of your choice gives you options.

"Posted by foodonastump ------------ Wow, dcarch, if there's a book that screams your name, this one is it! Accordingly, I expect it will stir up a lot of controversy. Which all the more makes it perfect for you. ;-) Just from the Amazon review I'd question some ideas, but I'm definitely intrigued. ------- I always forget how to embed hyperlinks, but adding a link at the bottom of a post is a fairly mindless procedure." If there is a Nobel Price to be given in the cooking world, Nathan Myhrvold should be the one to get it. He has contributed so many revolutionery ideas in the art and science of cooking. No. Don't waste your time and money to buy his book, if all you are interested in is more recipes. What a crazy brain this guy has! I absultely urge everyone, expecially if you have children or grandchildren, to look him up in YouTube and see him in action. What this country needs is more people as creative as he is. I have corresponded with him in another WEB site. He is a geek with a great sense of humor also. Regarding links. I admit I have been lazy. I post in a few other forums. Each one has a different way of doing things. I just don't bother trying to remember. Also, sometimes I post from different locations and I don't always have my files with me. Please check out this web site: http://modernistcuisine.com/ dcarch

Umm, I like the idea of matching the two sofas legs even if the sofas are different. I had not thought of that. The Varick has the option of straight legs to sort of match the Rockford. Since the Chair is a solid color, (it will be sitting in front of a Damask curtain with LOTs of colors in it) I did not want 3 solid colors in this small space. That was the reason for matching the sofas fabric. Originally, the ID wanted a print on the loveseat/settee but I did not like any print Rowe had to offer. Y'all have given me a lot to think about. Not sure what I will do. I guess I just need to be more forceful, but since we worked together on 2 other small rooms and had no issues, this "disagreement" has surprised me. But we will not have a matching pair of anything in this room if I get two different sofas. Only one side table/lamp. etc. I thought using the same fabric on two different sofas might help lessen the matchy, matchy look I have now (we have a Rowe loveseat and sofa that match now)! But we have a print on our one chair now and I did not like any of the prints this time around (plus the chair will be in front of our wildly printed drapes). Thanks everyone!