We have both the GW11 Washer (good choice and ok) and my wife insisted she wanted a new dryer to go with it (the old dryer did need a new timer but ok). I was no keen on the DGGX1 dryer due to its complicated machinations of side winder drum and door closer setup. What killed the original washer was lint build up as my wife does some fabric work and gets a load of that at the time and the rep said the GW11 was designed to avoid that, it has 100% good with that, never another lint problem. We had it 10 years and it started to make god awful squeals. After a lot of trouble shooting (there is a diagnostics for that) the pump was bad. Replacing the pump is a bit of a pain as you have to lay it on its side but otherwise easy as you release a tap and it pops out. Yes I tested the old pump and it was awful (I do a lot of mechanic building work so that is not new) One thing that fooled me was not reading carefully that the washer does a recycle water rinse soap thing and the pump would act up during that, so knowing the sequence and how it works points to the pump despite most washers using just fill water. However, in the course of making sure all was clean and ok I shined a light up the drain tube and saw a flapper. I am thinking its the diverter valve and in the wrong position but its not quite where the valve would be and its bright shiny silver, hmm, the size of a dime>? Yes a dime and plug of stuff. so you darned well better look or you can replace the pump and still have an issue. I pulled the other hose and made sure it was clean too. AND YES A SMALL OBJECGT CAN SOMEHOW GET INTO THERE SO DON'T BELIVE THE ONE POST, AT LEAST LOOK!!!!!!! Last they want you to splice in a fuse to the main board to protect it, they missed that. Its a dicey operation as the wires on the machine are tiny and the fuse wire is huge. Poor kit. I cut it in where there was a lot of room to res-plice if the splice went bad, they say right by the plug, if you do and you fray the wires you have no wire left to work with. Top loader is No Longer Made I believe, so only repair for old ones. As for the DGGX top loader, it worked ok until it got a squeeek/squak. Wisdom was the right side bearing, got it and nada, it was fine (typically we do 3 loads a week so we are not heavy users). What I found was the tensioner was making noise, I found if I moved it to one side it quit, so I wired it over a bit and ok for some time. 11 years into it and suddenly it goes nuts, squeeling, squalling and impossible. So I did the check of both ends, cleaned the right bearing, made sure the stub shaft was ok, cleaned the other end up and it worked ok for a week. the first screen assembly on the left end comes out easy as its a obvious Phillips screw and pops off. The assembly that holds the lint filter is a bugger as the screw is in the bottom and its a combo hex and Phillips type screw and its in there hard. Better off if you can get a thin wall socket in there (I got it out with Phillips but it better be a GOOD number two and you better be strong. Hex size is 7mm and not sure even a slim line socked will go in the hole. If not it might be worth drilling it larger if the screw will not move with a number 2 Phillips. the lint screen also had huge holes torn in it and no idea how or why, but that's 70 some bucks too. I think this needs to be checked about once every 4 years. then worse than even. Time to disassemble and look at that tensioner. Its fairly easy but you do need to know the steps and screw locations. This is a good guide. http://www.frontloadbearings.com/fisher-paykel-degx1-dggx1-dryer/#.VVa0DGzTmwV More or less you lift the lid, pull it straight up and it comes off. Remove the rubber plug left and right front and two screws come out (Phillips 2) and you lift the top and lay it back. At that point you need to unplug the connector that connects the display to the controller as the whole assembly will roll forward soon. then two screws on the front (smaller ones), spread the side and the front cover comes up a bit and comes off (ground connection also that needs to be put back. Once done then the whole drum rolls out and you can get to the tensioner (screwdriver to pry it off as there is an opening and pry against a bar. Our had one that was totally trashed with huge cleaned and uneven wear. Lubed and back together until parts get here. It was worth taking the front cover off as huge amounts of lint in the bottom including some that was blocking gas flow tube and covering up the intake about 25%. Not exactly maint free but reasonably done if you are handy. so line screen every 4 years inspect and clean it up at the same time and should be good. I don't know about the pulleys, why one is bad and one good when they both tension is mystery, kit comes with two and you may wind up if you have it long enough putting the second one on in the same place if it has more thrust or whatever took it out and it starting making noise 6-8 years in so it went quick for pretty light use.

The dryer you cite (DL62DGT1) doesn't exactly match current models. Closest by syntax is DE62TG1 (electric) or DG62TG1 (gas). I have the original SmartLoad model DEGX1, which is equivalent. Best dryer I've owned. WA37TG1 is a current EcoSmart washer, equivalent to previous GWL15 and GWL11 models. I have Intuitive Eco IWL12, a predecessor to the current IWL16. Personally, I'd choose Intuitive Eco over EcoSmart. Intuitive Eco is much more versatile for cycles & options. If you don't need the extra options, EcoSmart is certainly workable. There are many threads on this board discussing F&P washers & dryers. Google works nicely to find them -- Google search for "fisher paykel washer dryer" on Gardenweb.com

Hi Dadoes, please see my report back below: > With the machine's power off, press and hold Wash Temp > Down, then press Power at the same time. There should be > a couple beeps and the panel comes on. This worked :-) > Press Regular to turn on the pump. If you don't hear it > run, then the pump is bad (or the controller board) and > there's no use for further tests. Something came on, there was buzzing. I don't know if it was the pump or a partially working pump but it buzzed. > Press Regular again to turn the pump off (even if you > don't hear it running). If you do hear it run and there > is water in the tub, the machine should drain with the > pump running. No movement of water at all. > If there is no water in the tub, press Wash Temp Down to > fill it with enough cold water so you can see it. Press > Wash Temp Down again to turn off the water. If there is > water, skip this step ... unless you want to add more. Adding water worked. But the tub was already full. > With the pump off, press Delicate to activate the > diverter valve into recirculation mode. Wait a minute or > two for the valve to shift fully ... you won't see > anything happen. I guess this worked. > Then press Regular to turn the pump on again. Water > should shower out of the recirculation port at the upper > right/rear of the tub. If the machine drains instead or > both drains and recirculates, your diverter valve is bad, > or possibly clogged with some debris. Nothing happened. When I turned the pump on it buzzed again. > Assuming recirculation does occur, press Regular to shut > off the pump, and Delicate to deactivate the diverter. > Wait a couple/three minutes for the diverter to shift, > then press Regular to turn the pump on again. The machine > should drain. If not, then again the diverter may be bad > or clogged. No recirculation and no draining. But the pump buzzed every time I turned it on. I don't know how loud the pump would be if it was working. ie. if it's stuck/clogged and can't move, it will probably still make a buzzing sound. Your directions/instructions were dead on :-) I was impressed. Thanks!! But, what now? Could there be a clog of some kind in the diverter? Or pump? Thanks again!

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