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Fluorescent 6' tube fixtures and insulation

16 years ago

I have a warehouse that has offices over the lower storage area. The office space has been unused for many years but now we are using it. When we first bought the warehouse we install 6' fluorescent fixtures between the joists since we wanted the lights up out of the way. Now I need to insulate this area and these fixtures aren't IC-rated as far as I know. I don't want to drywall the ceiling and surface mount the fixtures because I'll have to deal with broken bulbs all the time. IC-rated recessed cans aren't an option either because I'd need way to many to light up this area.

I have an idea but I want to make sure it is feasible. I was thinking about removing the light fixtures and insulating the ceiling. Then installing some two by fours in between the joists and attaching a piece of drywall to the two by fours. The lights would then be surface mounted to the drywall and still be recessed between the joists. This would give me the same result as dry walling the entire ceiling and surface mounting the lights. Is this correct?

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what you have will probably work fine. I have a 48" shop light with one cool white light and one f40 grow light. Two standard shop lights would work fine Im sure. My grow light has 1900 lumins. Im not sure what the other light is. If your light is too much your plant will let you know. All plants will not react the same to this light. But lets face it sometimes you dont get enough light in natural winter light. I have the kind of light with adjustable chains to raise or lower for your needs. I keep the lights on 12-16 hrs a day. Plants need at least 8hrs of dark and I try to make sure they get it.
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It is but the ballast needs to be changed to HO also. The HO bulbs will put out less light than standard bulbs with a standard ballast. It's like trying to use a 6V battery to start your 12V car.
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The standard tubes (T12) and slim tubes (T8) are NOT compatible and not meant to work in the same fixtures. They require a different ballast. The T8 tube went bad quickly because the T12 ballast was forcing the wrong amount of current through it. Your light now flashes because the T8 tube damaged the ballast, which is now overheating and cycling its thermal protector. You now need a new ballast, and strong encouragement to read the warnings that say things like "USE ONLY F40T12 LAMPS" or something of the sort.
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Is it really necessary to have separate switching of the two lamps in the cases? If not, then you can just use an ordinary small can type 2-lamp electronic ballast and fit new T8 lamps. That's the easiest answer. If you do need separate switching then you'll just have to find room for two ballasts. Usually if one will fit, two will, if placed end to end. You will probably have to drill and tap new holes for the second ballast. If room is extremely tight in the fixtures, maybe you could remote the ballasts. Another possibility would be to use 3 or 4 PL type CF lamps. The mag ballasts for them are usually very small, about the size of a voice coil transformer from an AC-DC table radio (if you're old enough to remember those). You'd have to change out the lampholders too, of course. I see many hours of labor in your future. ;-) Maybe new T-4 or T-5 undercounter fixtures would fit in the cases.
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