Some things to mull over 1. The CR6 has a better spread of light than a standard recessed can. That could be used to compensate for the location. 2. The CR4 (ECO4-575L) could also be considered. Slightly smaller recessed can. 3. The light over the sink could be used instead of having 2 cans. I would locate the various obstructions above the ceiling first (including height clearance) first to figure out what sort of pattern is possible. I presume that retrofit cans will be used. I made a short thread on recessed cans for kitchens below. The principles are applicable to other scenarios too. Here is a link that might be useful: LED recessed can lighting

Since you have so much undercabinet lighting that can work as task lighting, some surface-mounted general lighting might be a viable option, though I think you'd need two such fixtures for such a long, narrow space. If you added six feet, then the room is 70% larger than it used to be; take that into consideration when remembering your old lighting scheme. Since I think you'd need two surface-mount fixtures, I'm doubtful they'd save you much in terms of wattage unless you went with fluorescent... which is, of course, an option. If you went with surface-mount fixtures, you might also want a couple of small recessed lights over the peninsula work area where there are no undercabinet lights. David is absolutely right that cans/downlights are much better at putting a lot of light on a small area than at spreading it around broadly. The light from a can spreads out in a cone shape, so the higher your ceilings are, the larger each pool of light can be. Your ceilings are relatively low, so to light this room solely with cans, I do think you'd need about eight 50-watt fixtures to get enough light and distribute it evenly through the space. I am very glare-sensitive, and I find surface-mounted fixtures bright enough to light up a kitchen (as opposed to a bedroom where light levels are typically much lower), mounted on low ceilings, uncomfortable. Cans can do a better job hiding the light source from view, and they can also prevent a lot of shadows that are inevitable with central surface fixtures. Their inefficiency does bother me, though. If this were my kitchen, I think I'd look into the better fluorescent cans that are becoming available in the wake of California's Title 24 legislation, and I would pair them with dimmable incandescent (probably xenon) undercabinet lights.

Different types of fixtures, trims and bulb types will influence the spread of light. In other words, light from a recessed can doesn't just go straight down - it goes out in a cone shape - and you have some control over how far it spreads by changing lamps (bulbs) and trims. If I recall, there was a helpful display at our local Lowes showing how far the different fixtures spread. Worth searching for something similar online. One of the most useful pieces of information from this little exercise was the knowledge that if you're trying to illuminate a work surface that's 36" off the floor (or more meaningfully, 60" below the ceiling), you have less distance for the light to spread than if you're trying to illuminate a pathway on the floor, so you need to place your fixtures somewhat closer together. If your ceiling height is significantly taller, your fixtures can be a bit further apart, but you may need somewhat brighter bulbs. What really helped me was to figure out the approximate diameter of the 'pool of light' at countertop height, and space my fixtures so that the light pools overlapped slightly, but centered on my primary work areas.

@Kimberly J, You're on the right track. While you've not given us a ceiling height nor details on materials/finishes (all affect lighting design) please consider the following: • Depending on actual pendant choices, your island could handle 3 smaller pendants & your peninsula could handle 1-2 pendants. These might all be complimentary to the pendant style you choose to hang over the table. • Lighting for sink wall & art wall could all be controlled together via dimmer. • Lights for island & for peninsula should be controlled separately, dimmers. Maybe locate the island's pendants dimmer on the island itself. • Before choosing actual recessed light size & final layout, think about the quantity & quality of the light it produces. The Lithonia Wafer LED comes 3", 4" or 6", and the Philips SlimSurface LED comes from 4" to 7". Each is available round or square, and in a few different color temperatures. I suggest using LEDs that are 2700k (a warmer white light like incandescent bulbs). I suggest the attached image for a possible layout. Less recessed lighting than the original. Please post pics when the project is completed.