Help needed for undercabinet lighting choice

12 years ago

Hi everyone,

We're in the final stages of our kitchen renovation and really need advice on undercabinet light choices. I've been reading here but still confused.

From what I understand, the electrician already wired the kitchen assuming in line voltage for our undercabinet lights. I think he assumed xenon as that seems to be what he usually installs. We didn't know better at that point in the renovation.

At this point, what are our best choices? We'd like the lighting to be dimmable if reasonable at this point. Avoiding the heat of xenon would be nice I think. What are the best choices (products and sources) for LED in line voltage if we went that way? Same goes for xenon and flourescent?

Thanks in advance for any help/advice you can provide.

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Comments (10)

David
12 years ago
The Philips eW profile powercore is a good place to start. The lights are dimmable.
Other choices include Talea-HP, MaxLite,...

(imo)
I would avoid the LED strips from either Home Depot or Lowes. I wasn't too impressed by the products from Kichler.

Other tips
Try to have the lights joined end to end to avoid dark spots.
If you have a corner, the lights should be placed like a L if possible to minimize the shadow zone.

Here is a link that might be useful: Philips eW Profile powercore
ralphs95
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks David!

Do you have any recommendations for sources to purchase the Philips eW profile powercore? I will need to get all the appropriate pieces (including dimmers) for the electrician.

It looks like I have the following dimensions under the 5 cabinets (one side -- 28.5", 28.5", and 31.5";
2nd side -- 40.5" and 19.5" separated by the range).

Thanks again for your help.
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If you are worried about how they are going to appear, my first question is whether or not your counter top is a dark color (like black or dark brown) and shiny. If it is, whatever you put on the bottom of the cabinets is going to reflect in the counter. It's like looking into a mirror. I would suggest that you look at various companies online before purchasing -- those that make them -- to get more information on the product. You can check out Nora Lighting, WAC Lighting, Juno Lighting, Lightolier or Halo. I have usually placed these where they will be seen the least. If your cabinets have the 1" overhang, then you can even put them on the back of the overhang or close to it. The one thing that no one seems to think about with the xenon or halogen lamps is the ease with which you need to change the bulbs while leaning over the counter. Check out the manufacturers to see which would be better for your application. Once you have narrowed it down, I would contact their technical assistance department for information on placement of their product. We can all tell you different things to do and each of us will have our own preference. My only caution is not to see what you put under the cabinets in the counter top. I have seen too many of these situations where we have been called in to do something about it when there really is nothing to do.
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Just to let everyone know, the link for this post has changed: I think you only need to use one plug at the outlet end. You can connect up several light fixtures one-to-the-other in a straight line using the direct connector that comes with each light fixture. If you have to angle to a corner cab, or insert lights into a cavity, you can still connect the lights to each other using their flexible connector. Call Pegasus Lighting Associates and they will help you if you give them your measurements. 1-800-392-4818. Here is a link that might be useful: Pegasus micro-fluroescent undercab lights New Link: www.pegasusassociates.com/MicrofluorescentT4.jsp Here is a link that might be useful: Pegasus Associates Lighting
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"low voltage wiring back to a central transformer." Often a painfully expensive way to do the job. Low voltage requires higher current and low voltage drops in conductors, requiring the use of larger wires. 60 W AC to DC supplies are around $15 each and fit in a single gang box. 120 VAC in one end, 12 VDC out the other. You can cut through the cabinet back, mount a device box flush with the inside of the cabinet back, then use a blank switch-plate on the box. The 12 V lines exit through the bottom side of the box, through the bottom of the cabinet, and then to the nearby lights. Repeat as required. If a single large er transformer fails ALL the lights are out. If a single AC-DC power supply fails all you lose is (up to) 60 W of lights. It works especially well with 20 W pucks. 3 pucks per supply. You can even use another low voltage supply (24 VAC, power limited) with relays to switch the segments. Same sort of scheme as a thermostat, with all the wiring relief these circuits have (and common and inexpensive transformers and relays from the HVAC world). You may need to use as 4x4 box with a single gang plaster ring to fit power supplies and relays.
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David
12 years ago
Ralph,

Following are 2 websites for philips eW Profile PowerCore
http://ledneonlight.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=650&zenid=d9051aa35a6fb8608f2e9c67d1291958

http://www.goodmart.com/products/philips-ew-profile-powercore-white-10w-3000k-19-25-in-led-under-cabinet-fixture-523-000027-49.htm?source=gsGM

You need to measure out the flat part of the undersides of your cabinets and round to the nearest available sizes. For 28.5" - one 21" (19.25")+ one 11" (9.25") if you still have wiggle room to fit the connectors. Otherwise, you will have to settle for a single 21" or stagger the lights.

Make cardboard or wood blanks the same length and ~ width as the various light lengths so that you can play around with the placement.

Dimmer - you can get the necessary Lutron ELV dimmer from Home Depot/ Lowes or online.

Your electrician should really be able to source all the necessary parts.
katterine
12 years ago
I was just checking undercabinet LEDs for my kitchen at Home Depot this Sunday. I found their selection is not very strong, and also their prices are quite high.

I thought that was because their models are a bit behind, and LED technology is improving sooooo rapidly.

That is why electricians may be a bit behind too. Well if they are open, at least you can suggest LED lights to them.

I found possibly cheaper sources of LEDs online , here: http://ledundercabinetlights.org/dimmable_led_under_cabinet_lighting.html

check it out, they provide many online sources.

Here is a link that might be useful: under cabinet lights
aliris19
12 years ago
Katterine - this site you posted seems really helpful. I can't quite tell who's running it -- I'm wondering how reliable the information is. Is there someone on this forum who can say? What do you think of ledundercabinetlights.org?

TIA
katterine
12 years ago
aliris19, not sure who runs ledundercabinetlights.org The main thing I remember is comparing the prices between the Home Depot and what I found on site. Online prices were much cheaper. What did you find helpful about thesite?
cincin16
12 years ago
I checked out the Phillips Profile Powercore, and they are 1.7" high. Is there a better choice that would be more low profile?
David
12 years ago
The eW Profile is .88" high and the depth is 1.7".
http://www.colorkinetics.com/support/datasheets/eW_Profile_Powercore_Product_Sheet.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: eW Profile dimensions
SadieV
12 years ago
Is the .88 high dimension when it is mounted, or do the brackets add some height to it? I have very little room to work with if the lights are to be hidden behind my front rail. Also, are the Powercore lights direct wire?
David
12 years ago
It is the height of the bar alone. The additional height from the mounting depends on what is used to mount. If you use mounting brackets, They add ~ 1/16".

Yes, they are direct wire. The specifications are available in the link I provided

Here is a link that might be useful: Powercore profile

Help needed for undercabinet lighting choice

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Help needed for undercabinet lighting choice

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