Recessed LED cans under blown-in insulation?
Abe Gardner
10 years ago
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Abe Gardner
10 years agoRelated Discussions
blown-in insulation around HVAC units in the attic
Comments (3)Thank you for your response! I'll try to answer your question below define poorly installed batts. We have gaps between bats AND some sections where batts don't lie flat on the attic floor. Builder's insulation subcontractor originally tried taking the 9inch thick batts and slicing them in thirds (like slicing bread) to make three 3 inch batts that he thought I would accepts as the correct insulation! These were laid between joists. When I caught onto the subterfuge, he claimed that he hadn't been aware of the cheating but would make sure the insulation was done over properly. Instead, he allowed them to just drape 9 inch batts perpendicularly across the joists over the top of the 3 inch thick slices. Because it was very difficult for me to get up into the attic (attic ladder hadn't yet been installed), I trusted builder to make sure it was done over correctly. It wasn't and it is a MAJOR mess. To the extent that we are able to reach the batts, we intend to pick them up and reposition them correctly or just take them out. But there are areas behind the heaters that the only way to reach is by crawling over the heaters so we were hoping we could just blow insulation into those areas without first repositioning (or taking out) the batts. Guess not. do you have service platforms around the units? there should be a 3' walkway to and around units for service. The units both lay beside a platform so it is easy enough to get to one side but there is no walkway "around" them. check & see if batts were installed under unit platforms and walkways...water heaters too if they are in the attic. there are batts between the joists that the units sit on. Whether the batts extend the entire distance under the units were only put in place at the very edges to make it look like underneath the units was insulated, I honestly don't know. Will have to pull a couple out to check. Thanks for suggestion. understand that under heating system you'll only have R-30, which is code here in La. how about in Tx? at max we put R-38. We're outside of a code restricted area but under our contract the builder was supposed to have built to meet code requirements of the nearest major metro area which, at that time was R-30 in the attic. New recommendations for this area are R-50. I'm not sure what the nearest metro code now requires. I don't know what value you plan to insulate to... what is your goal? and what is the purpose of the added insulation? We would like to get as close to R-50 as possible even if some parts of the roof are only insulated to R-30 or lower. Seems like it is good to insulate as much of the attic as possible to R-50 to reduce heat transfer between attic and living areas. I find it is usually air leakage into the house that people try to solve by adding insulation. it never works unless the new insulation both insulates and air seals. (foam ins) with propane you'd have to add combustion air if you foamed the roofline. many insulation companies don't understand how to do this...nor to hvac companies. air sealing is easier with batts than with any other insulation. move the batt...do the air sealing... put the batt back. Not sure I totally understand you here. Our attic is not sealed. We have ridgeline vents and soffit vents. So far I haven't seen any signs of inadequate ventilation in the attic and I know that we need to leave space for air to circulate between soffit vents and ridge vent. We intend to be sure to leave the baffles in place and not block either end. As for air infiltration into the house, the house is pretty tightly sealed. We fired the builder before the interior walls were insulated or sheetrocked and I personally went around with cans of spray foam filling in every crack where I could see light coming thru the exterior shell. All the gaps around exterior electrical plugs, etc. Then we hired a different insulation sub to install the wall batts and I checked every piece of it before sheetrocking started. So, the house is tight. do you have recessed lights? IC or ICAT? the IC lights are a big leakage to living space. We do have recessed lights. They are ICAT. (I've checked). were ducts mastic sealed? or just duct/foil tape? returns in attic mastic sealed? I don't know. What should I look for to find out? And if just duct/foil tape sealed, what is the proper way to fix it and is this a job a homeowner can do or will we need to hire pros? I'm assuming this should probably be done before blowing in additional insulation so one is not having to tromp over and thru the blown in insulation to reach the ducts to work on them....See MoreBlown in attic insulation
Comments (5)seal the holes from inside the house. recessed cans can be retrofitted with air tight inserts cuts between sheetrock and a/c supply boxes can be sealed with mastic tape also oversized cuts at bath fans, and stove vents can be sealed with mastic tape. caulking does not seal sheetrock cuts. if you have ceiling moldings they are often hole cover uppers where the ceiling and walls meet is often a sizeable gap. caulk top of moldings to ceiling bottom of moldings to walls. have an energy audit with a blower door test..duct test. make sure that they show you where the leaks are. free audits often do not show what you need to know about your house, and I'm hearing of companies who do these free audits that don't show the ho the leakage, but bid the job to fix. hire an independent auditor to test before and identify leakage..get recommendations as to how to seal the leakage sites..get the sealing done or diy..have indpendent auditor to come back and retest. if you have a blown fg you can find the leakage by looking for discolored fg. as the air moves thru the insulation it leaves dust particles these dirt trails are above leakage sites. are you sure that nothing else is going on to increase utility costs? you may want to start your own current thread rather than use a years old thread... best of luck...See Morelooking for recessed cans that can be in contact with insulation
Comments (5)What you're looking for is what's call an insulation contact (IC) retrofit housing. Halo (Cooper Lighting) makes them but most people use some kind of flood light in recessed cans, so I don't know if you could use an ordinary compact fluorescent lamp with one of the 5" models. Halo does make an IC retrofit can with a built in fluorescent ballast and you'd just plug in the lamp. If you can't find what you want at a big box store, you'll need to try a electrical or lighting supply house....See MoreInsulateing a Recessed Can
Comments (6)Problem Solved. I used a regular round trim that came with a lens....the kind you see in a closet. In fact I took the trim out of our closet! I popped a 75 EF bulb in. Its not very bright but casts a nice amount of light in the fireplace area and seems to block the cold. I had another option too...in fact I used it in the closet. It was a IC / Non IC shower trim kit. It is an airtight kit that comes with a samll glass bulb...sort of a mini mushroom. I had to bend the metal rods that pop into to the can that 'push up'. It was not a perfect match I guess. Also the socket for the bulb in my can does not come apart so I simply lowered it to the opening in the new kit. I believe it should all be safe and now I have a lot of light in the closet; again I used a 75W EF bulb....See MoreAbe Gardner
10 years agoDavid
10 years agoAbe Gardner
10 years agoDavid
10 years agomattpete
10 years agoAbe Gardner
10 years agomattpete
10 years agoAbe Gardner
10 years agoAbe Gardner
10 years agomattpete
10 years agoAbe Gardner
10 years agoDavid
10 years agocalumin
10 years ago
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David