UMMMM.. as i was re-reading my post I realized how silly that sounded.. Ok.. so I just need to get a hold of the better sealer co. to ask if it is ok to use with that one.. I know you said before but what was the name of the company and product you recommended? I will look them up on-line to get a number before I buy the products just in case!! Thanks again for easing my nerves! May be reaching out to you sooner than later for someone in my area to do my backsplash.. Not 100% thrilled with the tiler thus far...

If spacers are used with Duraceramic the spacers are NEVER left in the job. The tile is too thin to expect that they could be covered and hidden by the grouting process. The spacers will have to be dug out and the resulting addition of more grout will result in an unsightly appearance if all of the grout is not removed. The problem is...how do you remove the grout? I'm not sure that can be done without damaging the tile. I might suggest that the floor could be re-tiled over the existing tile. Of course this would be at the cost of the original installer and/or sales company. I however WOULD NOT allow the original installer to re-do the job. just let him pay the costs.

Any standard penetrating sealer will do it. What he's talking about is a topcoat sealer. Tell him you want a penetrating sealer-- like Miracle's 511 Impregnator or Stone Tech's Impregnator Pro. You DON'T want Tile Lab's products from HD. They're Junk. Same with the ones from Lowes (can't remember the name off hand, but it's the only sealer they sell) If you can't find either of them locally (usually at a tile showroom), the Stone Tech products can be ordered through John Bridge's website.

JSOL: IF your tiles for your backsplash are GLASS - you REALLY need to check with the manufacturer of the tiles - as some brands have a backing on the tiles that CAN react with some kinds of adhesives....this is a color layer that works kind of like the way a mirror is - it's glass, but the silver "backing" on the back allows you to see your self - does that make sense? Anyways - NOT ALL glass tiles have this "backing" or "coating" on the back of the tiles - it it DOES - definitely check with the manufacturer of the tiles to see what kind of adhesive THEY recommend. I learned this (ALMOST the hard way on a guy's kitchen that was an active NFL defensive end - had I screwed up the job - i prolly wouldn't be typing this today!!! HA!! - it all turned out fine - BECAUSE I CHECKED with the tile manufacturer FIRST - and sure enough - there WAS a color "coating" on the backs of the tiles, and I had to use an adhesive that was compatible) There's lot's of Fire & Ice colors, and it looks like most of their products do not have the color added backing - but even when there is no coating on the bcaks of the tiles - I would use a WHITE thinset (NOT GREY) as the white color of the thinset will help to enhance the colors in the tiles... Mastics tha are out there will work too - they have a little better "hang" quality and for a guy that has not done a lot of vertical work using thinset - mastic will be his "friend" as the mastic adhesives tend to prevent the tiles from sliding down the wall when they are set.... Each guy has his own favorites - and both will work, but I'd prefer WHITE thinset for this application. Your tile guy should also make sure that there is 100% coverage on the backs of the tiles (if they are clear or semi-clear) as IF the back is not covered 100% - you'll see it showing through the tiles as little dark streaks....... sorry for rambling on and on about this - but you'll only get one chance to do this right - otherwise you'll have to do it all over again if it does not looks good the first time...... Like the US Army Sniper School "motto" says - "One Shot-One Kill" OK.... We're not as graphic with setting glass tile, but basically the same message.... do it right the first time I'm sure that my Brother Bill Vincent will have some good wisdom to share on this topic as well - here's hoping he chimes in on this too!!! hth kevin