It might work but I'm pretty sure it would hit the flashing over the door. We really need something that has 8-10" of extension before the fixture even starts. Something hanging from a bracket. This one has some extension out from the wall, so it's a possibility. I'd need more specific measurements. I'm also worried the wall plate wouldn't fit in the space between the top of the door flashing and the fixture. I have a vision of what such a light would look like, but I have yet to find anything like it online.

If you can bump out the window (make it bow or bay casement) then definitely do it. I think a bow window would look less different from other windows outside. Also, if you can make it wider than the sink do it. Extra width would avoid splashing on side frames. We have a double casement window over the sink, about 45 x 45 in., with stained wood frame. It's not bumped out. I so wish it was! I could definitely use the extra space behind the sink. We have 2 3/4 inches between the faucet and the wall and 2 inches between countertop and the bottom of the window frame. The frame is 4 inches thick (bottom to where the glass starts), very detailed, multi-level (multiple thin vertical and horizontal surfaces). And there is a 4 inch wide frame separating the 2 casement windows, in the middle, behind the faucet. Each window has a handle on the bottom for opening it. The handle does stick out and I need to move the dishwashing soap bottle every time I want to open the window. We also have a screen in one of the windows. The window is behind the 25 inch deep countertop, so we never had a problem bumping it with anything - it's just too far away. But is does get splashed - water, grease, etc. every time we wash anything. The sink is only 6 1/2 inches deep, so if you get a deeper sink you might have less splashing. The glass is easy to clean, but the screen and all that multi-level wood trim get sticky and are not easy to clean. As we plan our remodel we cannot change this window, bump it out, or move it higher over the countertop. The designer suggested we remove part of the bottom frame (actually a separate trim piece, maybe 2 inches thick) and add a ledge, a thin shelf, between the faucet and the window. I like wood trim and I don't think it would look as good with the bottom one "missing". I do like the idea of having a ledge though. All the windows in the house are Pella casement, 26 years old, and are fine. I am going to add a 2nd window to the kitchen to get more natural light, across from this window, that will be over prep countertop. It will also be Pella and match well, except now they make the handles hide flat when not used, which is very nice. Unfortunately these handles cannot replace the ones in the old windows. If I had a chance to change that window I would bump it out. I would not suggest you do a not bumped out counterheight window wood frame unless you will wipe it clean daily. Also, you will need to be very exact on the height measurements. If you put tile or wood on the floor it will raise your base cabinet height. We will be replacing vinyl with tile and our 2 inches between countertop and the bottom of the window frame might become 1 1/4 inches. We have laminate now, both countertop and backsplash under the window, and I don't see any problems with seams. Now I just need to figure out what sink and faucet to get, how tile backsplash and undermounted sink will affect the distances, where to place the faucet, and how to make a ledge that will protect the wood, look good, and be practical, not be bumped by hands operating the faucet or the window handles... I hope reading about my problems will help you figure out how to avoid them!

Well, I took another look and found 2 more options for coach lights that are not deep (flush mount style). These would be for the front of the house. I am happy to put in four of option C for the back, so that is settled. It is just the front now, that I am debating (despite the title of this thread). Option E (comes in a few sizes and is roughly 6.75 " deep). The best part is it is an LED light. It is made by Artcraft, so it has a very long guarantee on the finish (Canadian company -- we know winters). Option F This one is also Artcraft (with long finish guarantee). It is the least expensive of the options. Unfortunately, it only comes in a small and medium size, and I was thinking to put a large size at the front doors considering they are very tall (8 feet). Any preferences for the options above? Do you like the Murray Feiss ones (option D), or one of the Artcraft ones: options E or F. I can no longer consider options A and B as I have concluded we don't have the room for coach lights that are standard depth. Please vote on your favourite front of house coach light option. Thanks Carol

I have an open plan, U-shape kitchen. The refrig is on one of the legs. The general rule is to have it open towards the work triangle. Instead, mine opens to the exterior of the U where you're walking in, not the interior - see my very simplified drawing (which is so very not to scale, LOL). A contractor thought I was crazy. But the legs of the U are very short. I wanted the frig to open in the direction where I'm putting groceries away - or conversely, pulling prepared food/condiments out to take over to the DR opposite. This way, when DH opens the frig and snitches a cheese stick and salame, he is standing at the OUTSIDE of my work triangle, rather than coming inside it! The aisle running from the LR, past the pantry and to the stairway, is a full 4' wide for easy access from the front to the back of the house. I have a movable cart in the middle of the kitchen which is expandable to 5' wide. Also, the corners of my "U" layout are actually Lazy Susan cabs with hinged double doors. The double pantry unit is my "funny story". I have a lot of cookware, flatware, tableware, and variety of serving dishes. I sooooo carefully planned out the kitchen storage to make sure I had a place for everything! I was proud of myself for about a week when I suddenly realized I had COMPLETELY forgotten about someplace to store....FOOD! Fortunately we had not placed the cabinet order yet, so a hasty addition of two 18" wide x 8' tall twin pantries with roll-out shelves was put on the list.