As you move forward & the washer/dryer continue to age (mine gave out at about 12 years) replace each with a front loader as they fail. You then can stack them. This one move will save you tons of space. Of course you will want to have a place in your shelves to store baskets since the top of the washer/dryer will not be available. We used ours unstacked for a while until we re-did the laundry room. You may also want to evaluate your water savings, as well soap savings -- not published, but my Tide bottles last 3 or 4 times longer than with a top loader -- & may be able to justify changing the machines earlier. You may also consider a pocket door into the kitchen which will save you floor space. Also consider the possibility of having your garage door swing outward (if room in garage) to save some more floor space & open some wall space. Good luck!

Ikea food for thought: Yes, get a laser level if you're doing your own installation. A lot lighter than DH's 4' level. Getting the Sektion rail level and straight is KEY the Blankett handle is its own template. Don't bother with the $2 Fixa template if you're using Blanketts I had originally ordered all 15" Blanketts to make things easy--or so I thought. It was a much easier installation to have handles the same width as the drawers. To do over, I would first try to arrange the fronts on the floor to see if a particular order would look better. This obviously only applies to Askersund. Torham would've been a better style for our house, but it's too busy for me and I couldn't take looking at it all the time. I also almost got Kallarp because I love turquoise and our house is rustic Southwestern, but in the end I thought it would be too dark. The ceiling is almost 9' and originally I was going to try to do some trim between the cabs and ceiling, but the OC (over cabinet) lighting was a far better idea. That's the light (on the dimmest setting) we leave on when we'll be coming home after dark. Because we did the work ourselves, and we're retired, we could take our time. This ended up in putting the cabs a couple of inches lower than planned; DH had first wanted the over-sink cab higher so he would have no remote chance of head bumping but then changed his mind. Whew. We took 10 days-two weeks from start of work to the end, including the garage and laundry cabs. I made sure we did the garage cabs first so we could practice before my laundry cabs lol! We ended up doing the cover panels twice. So, please, first install the UC lighting and THEN do your cover panels! DH had to remove the panels to cut a notch for the new Stromlinje UC lights. I found that I have no patience for fine tuning the cab front looks. I got them to function and well, close enough! So a pro would have done better here, I guess. On the cabs where we knew exactly where the drawers and doors would be, we installed the slides and hinges on the cab sides BEFORE assembling the cab. That way we could have the sides laying flat on the work bench rather than crouching /reaching from odd angles after the cabs are hung. This did make the sides heavier to lift for assembly, especially the 30x90, but worth it. We used a Sears ATV jack (left over from our previous life in dirt bikes) to lift and lower the tall cabs into place. This was especially great for the 30x90 cab, which was too heavy to comfortably lift and was fit into a corner to boot. Well, that's all I can think of for now. Hope this might be helpful to someone.

Try open shelves on adjustable standards next to the window. Put a laundry basket or hamper under them, then start the shelves about waist high. Try four shelves. Adjust as needed. Keep the big detergent dispenser where its drips are easy to clean up. Slide a rectangular trash bin next to the window. Above the washer and dryer, add two large colorful artworks such as framed posters or one framed artwork and one good-sized mirror. Or add a clothes rod suspended from the ceiling for hanging clothes directly out of the dryer. It could also act as a rod for drying. A fold down valet rod may be useful, too, on the wall to the right of the door frame. The kink in the flexible dryer exhaust hose should be straightened out for safety and efficiency. Check to see if a sturdier exhaust hose is required by local code.

How will you access them if they are behind the cabinets?