I would suggest that you find out how wide the diagonal opening will be on your brand of cabinets (or from the cabinet maker if you're custom cabs). When I was making this decision, I went to Lowes and HD and measured all of the one they had on the floor, and there is a lot of variation due to the cabinet frame. I found the opening on the 33 inch lazy susan base cabs to be too small for what I wanted to store in there (small appliances), so I went with the 36 inch. But I know how it is when your layout just won't allow a bigger cabinet. I would really go see some, even if they aren't the same brand, and even bring a few of the larger items that you plan to store in yours, if you're not too embarrassed to bring a box of cherrios into HD! Also, we are really happy with our super susan (vs lazy susan) with no center pole, but the rotating platter on a shelf does waste a bit more height. Good luck!

Thanks for all the input. I am going with frameless - Bellmont 1900. Firstly, I totally appreciate the concerns about the functionality of a 12" drawer stack. I have very little happening in this kitchen in terms of drawers. In earlier layout discussions, people encouraged me to replace the 12" pullout I had there with drawers. My own drawers are on the peninsula. I have 2 30" 3-drawer stacks with a microwave cabinet in the middle. That only leaves the 2 top drawers for silverware, knives, etc. So...the thinking was that the 12" drawer stack would provide a place for the grill utensils, the tin foil/ziplock bags, etc. I expressed concern to the KD about the 12" being functional - which she then took as discretion to change the corner to 33". I'm really reluctant to block off the corner, given how small the kitchen is. I was thinking it would be a place for the toaster, blender, crockpot, etc - or maybe extra pots/pans that don't fit in the drawers. I guess I could rethink that, especially if we end up going with skinny pantries in the DR area. The benefit would be that I could go with drawers on each side of the range instead of doors/pullouts. But, it actually makes things more awkward on the sink side and I'm really not sure it's wise for me to create a dead corner in this small kitchen. I just know I hated my blind corner in the last kitchen and I want whatever we have to be functional and not frustrating... I'd also like the little range nook to appear as symmetrical as possible - which is another reason to go with a larger corner unit. I can't show you an exact layout, but I can give you some earlier renditions and options we are considering. I never mastered this graph paper thing GW likes from its users... Here's an earlier layout draft of the lowers my partner worked up. I think the cabinet to the right of the range is going to be 15" instead of 12", decreasing the peninsula by 3" to a 12" overhang. We are nalso going with a 30-33" fridge, but that won't matter much for today's purpose.

My layout is almost identical. My range wall is a few inches longer and the legs of my U are only 92". I wanted the drawer stacks next to the range to be as wide and functional as possible. When I researched storage options, I read where someone "did the math" and found that there is actually more square inches in storage when you close off the corners and use all drawers instead. I like the quick access of pulling open a drawer rather than pulling out and pushing back a contraption or opening a door and spinning a Susan. Not to mention the $$ savings. Your long U would allow you to put another drawer stack to the right of the sink. Then you can eliminate that 9" tray storage. I had a 12" one in my old kitchen and it was too cramped and too low to find what I needed quickly. Trays can go over the fridge or you can design a space in the pantry. My tray storage is in a cabinet over my pull-out pantry. You do not want your trash between the sink and stove, as suggested. One, you won't be able to pull it out while prepping in that corner, and two, while you're at the sink or the stove, someone will want to use the trash, making you step out of the way. My trash cabinet is only 13" and is between the sink and DW. Close to the sink while prepping and accessible to the table clearer without bothering the dish washer (DH!). I'd suggest two other layout changes. Make your pantry 24" if possible and move the fridge down. You'll appreciate a little more counter space in the corner where the microwave is more than you will the shelf space to store a few more cans of tomatoes. Is there a dining room on the other side of the peninsula? If so, I would eliminate seating and do a one-level peninsula. You have no large prep space in your kitchen. I use mine like a mini-island.

We are almost done with the process of installing our cabinets ourselves--due to a change in circumstances this has turned into a DIY project from a professional installation. We have a 42 inch corner sink base--the 42" is measured from one of the cabinet sides adjacent to the door to the opposite cabinet side. If ours was the unit the last picture above the cabinet side just to the right of the door would be 42 inches from the cabinet side that is attached to the kitchen's wall. For our setup, we can go up to 33 inches for an undermount, bigger if we put filler pieces between the sink base and adjacent cabinets or if there are no top drawers in the adjacent cabinets. If you want to go with the 33 inch sink, you need the 42" corner sink base. Hope this helps. We're still trying to pick out our sink--we only have to install the sink base and a couple of relatively easy other cabinets in this week so we can get templated (no pressure). Good luck!