Flexible strips are usually cheaper than rigid strips.

Bear in mind that they cannot be treated like string or electrical tape - cannot be twisted too tightly or bent in all directions.

You may find the following discussion thread useful.

Here is a link that might be useful: LED UCL DIY

Hi davidtay,
You information is very helpful. I am a new here. Thanks a lot!

I just installed the flexible LED strips under our cabinets as well as using them for up lights. I used the tape variety. They come in two versions the low intensity and high intensity. I used the warm white high intensity, which is not as warm as a regular bulb, but not as ugly as cool white and nothing beats a good old fashioned incandescent bulb. LED's also come in a packaged unit that has all the parts need to run them off of line voltage 120v. The one thing I did not like about those was they had switches built into them which you could use to dim them as well. I just wanted lights all the time. You can dim LED's as long as you use the correct driver and electronic dimmer switch. They are more money for both, and it depends on how many LEDs you are going to use will dictate the driver used.

Here is a link that might be useful: flexible LED light strips I used

to davidtay or ethan7557...

My question has to do with the durability of the flexible LED strips....We purchased a reel for our kitchen and really liked the idea of being able to cut the strips (just got them yesterday and not installed) but suddenly it dawned on me that with the humidity (especially the cabinet over my sink) that they would eventually 'release' and pull off....My installer wanted to put them directly on the cabinet rail facing the backsplash....

Does anyone know just how durable these lights are and should I be concerned about them eventually peeling off?

TIA for any responses

The durability of the LED emitters and strip is different from that of the adhesive tape backing.

There are a number of factors which affect the adhesion.
For example
1. Surface preparation - dusty or oily surfaces need to be cleaned and degreased.
2. Age of the adhesive.

If your cabinets get condensation on the underside, probably yes (non waterproof lights) along with problems with your cabinets.

If the lights are waterproof, the adhesive backing is probably going to last much longer.
If the lights do peel off, it should be a relatively easy fix to put it back up using contact cement/ epoxy.

thank you David....as long as I can re-attach them with contact cement/epoxy, I don't I will be overly concerned...I planned to clean the cabinet trim (not installed yet) with some rubbing alcohol to remove any dust or grease...they should be pretty clean since we haven't installed them yet...thanks again for the feedback

Hi everyone. I'm in the middle of a kitchen update and found my way over here looking for some advice regarding LED tape for under-cabinet lighting.

I shelled out the money to have low-voltage wiring and the contractor installed xenon pucks which I dislike. I'm looking for an alternative that can use the low-voltage wiring.

I just went to a local lighting store and they carry Diode LED tape, for the handsome price of $16/foot. I'm going to need anywhere from 10-12 ft., so that's a cost consideration. Also, they said I needed a different transformer than the one they put in. Since I don't need the lights to be dimmable, it's somewhere in the $100 region.

I just looked at Bestlightingbuy.com and they have SMD 3528 LED Strip 600 LEDs. A 16.4-ft. roll is about $109, less than if I buy Diode lights by-the-foot locally. Any idea if the two makes are comparable? They look very similar.

I appreciate any advice you can give me.

What was installed? What is the output of the transformer?

Take a look at the LED UCL continuation thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: LED UCL continuation

David, I'm afraid I don't know the output of the transformer. However, all agree that I will need a new one, forget what they called it.

Or I could have the wiring redone to 120V and go with fluorescents. The cost is going to be about the same, since the rewiring will add a labor cost. Right now what I want is the best light output for my kitchen. Although I've added can lights, I prefer task lights to overheads. Hopefully one of my local lighting stores will have some fluorescents and LED displays so I can see what they look like IRL.

Thank you very much for all your help and expertise. I wish you were my next-door neighbor. :)

The transformer (really a power supply) will have some label on it.

Alternatively, is it possible to find the power rating for each puck? The total power requirement will be the sum of all + a buffer of 15% (or so).

If the led lights you're contemplating and the existing pucks use 12V DC, it might be possible to use the same power supply.

I would suggest looking for the lights that would supply the right amount of illumination first.

The referenced thread contains quite a bit of information.

"I would suggest looking for the lights that would supply the right amount of illumination first."

David, I totally agree. That's my goal.