Hi, When we built my house I asked the electrical guys to put in Wall plates for CAT6 (dual, one for ethernet, one for phone) at each point. Then bring all the home runs into the basement with plenty of slack. You can do the CAT6 stuff yourself, but the most difficult bit is you need to do it in a timely manner. I.e. you need to get all that wiring done while the sheet rock walls are open. Remember on a build, time is money. If you throw off your GC's schedule there is a knock on effect. A 4 month delay is going to hit you on interest and cost overun charges. I would get the contractor people to: 1) Put in the home run CAT6, x2 per point 2) Put in Coax for TV, x2 per point 3) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Satalite dish) 4) Put in Coax to the roof (for possible Antenna) You can then mess about with the home runs and your rack of equipment in your basement after you move in. The home theater bit is more tricky. You need to put in lots of cables for that TV. Also these cables have finite length. 30 feet is like very long for an HDMI cable. While you have your walls open put in: 1) HDMI cables x2, from TV to cabinet 2) RGB cables x2, from TV to cabinet 3) L-R Audio pairs x4, from Tv to cabinet 4) Coax where the TV will sit to basement 5) Coax where the Video recorder will sit to basement 6) Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 7) S-Video, x1 from TV to cabinet 8) Power points with Surge supressor socket in wall at TV 9) 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood where you want your TV to be. A big piece, and secure this to your wall studs and place behing the sheet rock. Those TV's are heavy, especially if you want a swing out articulated mount. That is alot of cables. Avoid Monster cables which are a rip off. I got all my cables from Pacific Cable. Prices and service I found to be good and the cables work fine. I recomend alot of cables because once you put up that sheet rock, you are done, no chance to change. For complete home theater you also need sound. I did not have speaker wires put in. So am not that much of an expert in that area. I would say that ticker is better and fortunately fairly long runs are OK. You need to figure out where your speakers should be though and plan accordingly. Other low voltage wiring includes, Alarm, Smoke, Carbon monoixide detectors. recommend you get ADT / Brinks or someone like that to ensure it is up to code, and will interface OK to their monitoring station. Finally there is the door bell... which I would leave to your carpenter. So that you have a nice looking finished look. Wiring is easy. Mounting nicely etc. more difficult. Hope this is useful. Best, Mike. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.pacificcable.com/

I did my whole showroom in Hafele. Did the install myself. Simple to do. They are dimmable. You plug a dimmer controller into the driver. Simple. Warm White lower wattage for up lighting, warm white higher wattage for under cabinet. Drivers inside corner cabinet, hidden by basket. Warm white higher voltage also hidden behind face frame of corner cabinet to light it. The electrical outlet is underneath the right side of the corner cabinet, and the occupancy sensor switches are under the corner cabinet. They aren't pretty. But, they have to be visible to detect motion. [Traditional Wine Cellar[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-wine-cellar-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_755~s_2107) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Cool White, except under glass cabinets, which is warm white. Controller/dimmer to left of sink, right where the electrical outlet is that powers the install. Driver on top of cabinets. Wires run through cabinet interior, hidden by face frame. Glass cabinet tape lights hidden behind face frame to light cabinet interior. The outlet and driver for this section is on top of the wall. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis Warm White, dimmer controlled underneath cabinet to the left next to oven, where the power originates. Driver is in top glass cabinet, with control wire run through cabinets hidden behind face frame. [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis

Heard back from Lutron: Thank you for your interest in Lutron products. We do have several low-voltage controls that could control your magnetic and electronic low-voltage transformers. Some of our most popular dimmers are the Diva and Maestro lines. Diva MLV model numbers can be found here; Diva ELV model numbers can be found here. Maestro MLV model numbers can be found here; Maestro ELV model numbers can be found here. Unfortunately, there is currently no industry standard for the manufacturing of LEDs and the performance will vary with different dimming controls. We have not tested the LED fixtures you inquired about, so we are not able to guarantee a dimming solution for them. I suggest contacting the manufacturer to see if they can give you a dimmer recommendation based on their compatibility testing.

Not certain my LED lighting is what you’re seeking but our garage has a variety. We reside upper midwest however the garage is heated, i have 4, 8-foot LED shop lights traditionally switched. Mid-space is a square motion sensor LED that I let operate when the garage door opens. Also mid-space is a 3- panel LED with motion sensor that I’ve switched off and operate manually as needed. I know motion switches are available but my choice is to use task lighting when needed and let motion sensor activate space illumination.