HELP with ancient urine stain that won't come out!
sshrivastava
12 years ago
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liriodendron
12 years agosshrivastava
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Getting urine smell out
Comments (34)Krud Kutter. Sold at Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart... (You can also start with Spot Shot--this got red paint out of cream carpet for me, but it has a strong chemical smell; if you have urine in hardwood floors, Out!--usually found at Wal-Mart--works well.) It works on just about everything...except oil spills on concrete. I am a Jane-of-All-Trades (art, construction, automotive, anything, everything) and incredibly messy. Krud Kutter is amazing for laundry stains--removes blood, right before your eyes, with just a quick squirt. It doesn't bleach items AND is eco-friendly. I never dilute the stuff because I just like to go strong the first time around, but it IS a concentrated formula. I have a 12-year-old chihuahua that just loves to hike his leg on everything, and he also doesn't like to drink a lot of water; so, his urine is POTENT. I've used Krud Kutter on the diapers I now make him wear as well as in the carpet cleaner, and it is amazing. Best two cleaning products ever: Krud Kutter (comes in several iterations--I like the Tough Task) and Magic Eraser...See MoreDog foot prints that won't come off wood floors
Comments (7)That's not a great picture but that does look like scratches, not footprints. It almost looks like the poly is de-bonding from the stain. If you're going to consider a recoat you probably should try a test area first. Besides clipping the dog's nails I've seen the suggestion that you also trim the fur that sticks out between their toe pads so they can get better traction without extending their claws....See MoreNeed help with urine smell, can't figure it out
Comments (10)The post does not say where you live so I cannot tell which plumbing code you are under, however this house is new to you and if you are under the IRC (International Residential code) or the IPC (International Plumbing Code) there is a very strong likelyhood that you may have an "AAV" (air admittance valve), AKA "Studor Vent" or "Cheater Vent" instead of a true vent pipe in your bathroom. One quick way to get an good idea if you have an AAV is open the cabinet under the sink when you smell the odor. If you have a defective AAV the odor should be much stronger under the sink. AAV's have a spring loaded plunger that will allow air to enter the drain line to prevent a negative pressure that would suck the water out of your traps, but, when working properly they are closed to prevent sewer gasses from escaping from the pipe. Given that it is a mechanical device, it also stands that it is subject to malfunctioning. AAV's must be installed at a location where they can be periodically inspected and allow access for repair. Typically for a bathroom they are installed on the lavatory bowl waste arm in the cabinet under the sink. Look at the sink drain line. If you have an AAV you will see a Tee fitting on the horizontal line coming out of the wall and before it connects to the P-trap from the sink bowl. You will then see a vertical line attached to that tee which rises a minimum of 6" above the horizontal line and generally it will rise up behind the sink bowl. You will then see a Cap on the top of the line, but if you look close you will see either some slots or a square opening on that cap fitting. That cap fitting is the AAV. AAV's are mounted by means of ordinary pipe threads. On the top of the vertical riser there is a female thread adapter and the AAV is simply screwed in. To replace it you simply unscrew the existing AAV, than apply teflon tape to the threads of a new AAV and screw it back in place. You can get the AAV's at any hardware store or home supply center. Personally I prefer to go to a True Value or ACE hardware and you will be more likely to find a clerk that really knows what their talking about to help you....See MoreGetting Cat Urine out of Carpet
Comments (19)Hi! Still hunting the web for answers? Hard core emergency with large areas? Unfortunately, enzyme cleaners cannot completely remove the bacteria/protein combination which creates this potent bouquet. Nor will vinegar, but it breaks the protein bonds really well. Baking powder will neutralize odors on the air or surface, but cannot kill the odor-causing bacteria. Please, beg of you! do not use lemon juice on … well, really anything but wood/lemon oil treatments in your home, and no applying oil anything over protein stains! Walk by the clove oil antibacterial cleaners this time! And no, pure ammonia will not cause a pet to re-mark the area. I read that on several sites and was discouraged indeed! The proteins in the urine are what triggers the re-mark habit. Please mask and ventilate area with fan first! For big areas, try the following 3 part solution: 1 part water to I part: Pure ammonia or at least 70 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol or Tgel .5% minimum coal tar ( best on hard wood, and must be poured boiling) -for tgel or sulfur cleaners, a half cup to very hot water in standard bucket size. Add a capful of laundry detergent for bigger container (bucket) solutions, or a tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Smaller or less than gallon solutions, a teaspoon. Let sit minimum two hours, then wash off with detergent. Best to dry again to test odor. The dying bacteria will release all kinds of noxious fumes, so the detergent step is necessary. Or apply solution again. Repeat. This may take several attempts. For the utterly committed, there is a final step, but if you used ammonia — by far the most powerful non-bleach antibacterial — I do not advise this, or only if all else fails. Yep, bleach, but it can never, ever be used directly on an unwashed urine stain. Detergent washing will remove the ammonia used, or in a fresh pet potty stain. But ammonia mixed with bleach creates hazardous, even lethal chemical gases, so wash and blow dry the stain at least three times BEFORE bleach! Required! Same solution as above, on bleachable fabrics only. Best method is a thick powdered bleach paste, mixed with hot water. I have worked rehab jobs with clients who wish to save hardwood flooring. And rescue home purchases the same. If a pet has repeatedly used the floor, I am afraid there is only one solution to this problem, today’s science permitting — they must be sanitized with ammonia. Ammonia will permanently stain unvarnished or partly varnished wood flooring. Wash then bleach method may be too dangerous, as wood may be saturated with pet ammonia. After that, a distressed paint look may be applied. I love this look, clean and country fresh! The other option is darkest varnish. A happy home is filled with life and live, especially pet love. And real love means real workbooks! If you arrived here, your heart truly fills a home with the greatest of furball love! Wishing a a happy and clean home to you all!...See Morefahrenheit_451
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