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Fisher Paykel Washer

13 years ago

I have a Fisher Paykel model gwl10 that is advancing past the rinse cycle. I've run the diagnostic but got no codes. When I try to run the washer it won't drain all the water out. I believe the problem is either board or the diverter valve but can't get parts for it whereb I live. Any way to tell if these 2 items are the problem. I phoned Fisher but they don't have a service rep in my area so I'm on my own on this.

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dadoes
13 years ago
I assume you mean it "is [not] advancing past the rinse cycle."Â Â :-)

The rinse cycle is more properly referred to as the rinse phase or rinse period.Â The machine performs several different actions ... drain, fill, and spin.

Anyway, if the pump does run but the machine doesn't drain, then the diverter valve is very likely the problem.Â It has either gone bad/stuck and not shifting modes, or is trying to shift but is clogged with lint/debris, or the controller board could fail and be constantly sending power to the diverter such that it's always in recirculate mode (in which case the diverter may also be bad and caused a short in the circuit on the board).

Run a Perm Press cycle.Â The diverter is not used for recirculation on Perm Press.Â If the machine doesn't drain after the wash period but instead recirculates the wash water ... diverter problem.

Or test the pump and diverter in Diagnostic Mode.Â With the machine's power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time.Â Should get two beeps and the panel comes on.Â Press Regular to run the pump, confirm that it does run.Â If there's water in the tub and it recirculates, then the diverter is stuck or the control board is keeping it constantly engaged.Â (Wash Temp Down or Up runs cold or hot water if you need to get some in.)Â In that case, you can troubleshoot further by getting under the machine and disconnecting the two wires on the diverter.Â Let the machine sit turned off for 10 mins or so to insure the diverter is cooled and has time to shift to drain.Â Run the pump again in Diagnostics (or run a Perm Press cycle), see if it drains.Â If so, then the controller board may be the problem.

The Delicate button turns the diverter on/off in Diagnostic Mode.Â The diverter takes a minute or two two heat and shift when turned on, three mins or so to cool and shift back when turned off.Â If the board is bad and keeping the diverter on, then Delicate on or off will make no difference.
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Service documentation advises to test for voltage across the diverter terminals (at the wires connected to it) with the machine off but plugged in to power. Phase 7 (which yours should be), reading of 230v indicates the board is bad. (The documentation for a newer model Phase 9 says 120v.) Reasonably there should be no voltage at the diverter with the machine off (drain mode). Voltage/power energizing the diverter engages it to recirculate mode. The voltage test seems to be inferring that the motor board reverses the diverter function when bad.
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I advise against laying the machine fully down flat on its back .. or front or sides. Residual water can run out around top of the tub and seep into areas it shouldn't such as the control panel. Better to lay it down onto a block of wood or a step-stool or some such supporting at the top so it's not all the way down flat. F&P parts have been available for years from SearsPartsDirect.com, FisherPaykelParts.net, and FisherPaykelParts.com (the last two are not related to F&P) parent company). Assuming the pump is not the source of the noise, noisy spin is typically related to the main drive shaft bearings and seal going bad. The bearings (and drive shaft) can be replaced but requires some special F&P-sourced setting tools to do properly. It's possible a competent/experienced mechanic DIYer can do the job without the special tools. I believe a replacement outer tub includes bearings but a drive shaft would also be needed. Whirlpool has a different tool for their machines based on F&P's design but I don't know if it works directly on F&P-branded machines. Could also be worn suspension springs/rods ... but I assume the noise involved is not vibration from tub balance oscillations, and occurs if spin is run with no clothes.
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The basket floating is not a problem ... it's *supposed* to do that as part of the clutch/drive system. It sits atop a spin/drive cog on the motor shaft with the agitator bolted directly to the shaft. The plastic base of the basket incorporates a dome that holds air when the tub fills, which makes it float slightly upwards to disengage from the cog so the agitator can oscillate separately. The floating process is also part of the auto-sense water level function. The basket settles back down on the drive cog when the water drains so it can spin. The motor pulses forward and back a few times at the end of the drain to determine by rotational inertia that the basket is down and will spin. The fill level for Eco Active is low enough that the basket should *not* float at that point. If it's filling too much or the basket is stuck in float position, that could cause oversplashing during recirculation due to the smaller gap between the tub cover and rim of the basket. However, the basket stuck upward in float position (due to mineral deposits or debris on the drive shaft or drive cog, or perhaps misinstallation) would interfere with proper machine function (spin) and should trigger a fault code. You can check that the basket is not stuck by lifting it upward (place hands turned outward 180° apart). It should easily slip upwards and down on the drive shaft.
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