Michael, really appreciate the update. Hope to talk more garlic with you and other zone 8-9-10+ folks in the future, as it is definitely a challenge to grow garlic well in the warmer zones, and especially in the South. Hopefully we can all learn from each other and continue to refine our techniques and variety selections. Wonder why pre-chilling for warm zone growers isn't mentioned or discussed in detail more often. I've googled the heck out of it, and there just doesn't seem to be a lot of folks talking about doing it in detail (at least that I could find anyway). And/or, the advice tends to be mixed. I briefly thought about trying it before, but didn't. In any case I am very glad I saw this thread and plan to do some pre-chilling next time. I've grown smaller amounts of garlic on and off for several yrs now, but only started to get serious about it in fall of '07 - for my harvest last spring. Yesterday and today, I harvested a lot of the garlic. Dug all the artichoke types, the one Asiatic/Turban I was growing (Red Janice), and a couple of creole types as they just screamed "ready." Not many leaves left on the ones I dug (and the ones left in are starting to go fast), so I can't leave them much longer or I might lose "storage" layers of wrapper. Unfortunately, early May weather is really hot here this yr - already 90's with heat index up to 100's. Definitely got hot faster than last May. Not good for the garlic, and also for getting much more significant fruit set on my March planting of tomatoes. I am growing Siberian this yr too, and it is still in. The "fan" of leaves is just now starting to go now, and plenty of green ones left towards the center. I can already tell though by feel of the bulbs, that this is going to turn out very nicely, large and good clove formation. Leaving in just a little longer, but will watch leaves carefully/daily. Will definitely grow this one again. Metechi (another mps) is still in, but I think it is going to be a bit smaller than the Siberian, even though I can feel that has formed cloves. It did okay for me last yr, not outstanding but "avg", but I thought I would try again because of the favorable comments on the Gourmet Garlic Gardens site - he says it is one of the very best for him, go figure. Of the Artichokes I harvested today, Red Toch, Chet's Italian Red, and Lorz turned out the best. For the most part, large bulbs (for here anyway -- 2-2.5") and good clove formation. Inchelium Red also did well, so this makes 2 yrs in a row for me of good results with this var - and another good one for storage, IME. Asiatic/Turban types have given me inconsistent results overall, I rend to get a lot of rounds. One I tried last yr that did well was Red Janice, and it managed to consistently form cloves again this time, but bulbs a bit smaller than last time. Stores well. Creole Red did well for me, as it also did last yr. Cuban Purple (also creole) did well too, first time with it. Here is a link that might be useful: garlic album

Established in-ground fig trees do not need much fertilizer. If an older tree does not grow more than one foot a year that is an indication that it would benefit from some fertilizer. For young in ground trees.........remember that fig trees that did not grow from seeds (i.e. 99.999% of them) were cloned from cuttings and hence DO NOT HAVE TAP ROOTS. Also, keep in mind what works for pot culture does not necessarily apply to in-ground trees. Young in-ground trees get their moisture and nutrients from a root system that is just below the surface in the top layer of the soil. Accordingly, it is VERY IMPORTANT that you keep the soil around your young in-ground trees moist for the first year. Regular watering IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN FERTILIZING for good tree development in its first year. However, a little fertilizer often will help it get off to a really good start. I have planted brand new fig starts in early summer that grew to 10 feet tall and had figs on them by the end of its first season by using this fertilization method: Apply a little 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 directly on the ground around the tree. Sprinkle it in with water and be sure to always keep the soil moist (a little dry is OK but not bone dry). If after two weeks your tree did not respond.....apply some more fertilizer and sprinkle it with some water. Repeat this until your tree eventually does respond.......stop adding fertilizer at that point. But continue keeping the ground moist. Do not apply any fertilizer in late summer as you do not want to encourage rapid tender growth just before winter.....also begin cutting down on the water late in the season. Dan

A couple of light frost nips here in Novi (15 miles NW of Detroit) over the past couple of weeks. Nothing serious yet, though...pretty amazing for Nov 1...my cannas with their deep purple foliage and even a few blooms are still standing tall in addition to lots of annuals...some zinnias are hanging in there, impatiens are on their last gasp (still sporting a few blossoms), dusty miller (plant this next year for silvery color from spring, summer and right into early winter...it even overwinters for me here...and boy, does it look great with the green/purple kale plants I picked up this fall), alyssum, marigolds (also VERY cold tolerant) and more... But I don't mind all that much the plants that have given up for the winter and made their way into my compost bags...every square foot of bed I clear down to nice rich earth makes me think of spring and the things that will be bursting forth before we can even believe it... And plus there's always seed-starting to keep my thumb green over winter!

Yes! We got it sorred out. So it turned out to be a loose circuit breaker. It was the new sub panel put in for our kitchen reno. We had some electrical work done and hired an electrician tonadd some recessed lighting. He ran it back to the new subpanel and he comes up from the basement nd asks if we were having problems with the stove. I said yes. He said he noticed the breaker wasnt seated properly. It was making a connection but just barely. He popped it out and popped it back in and sure enough I went and ran that oven at 500 for an hour with no issues. The cause imo was the weak current was causing the computer to think there was a fan issue. An anomaly. Want to say we have since moved and it was a relief to be able to have that taken care of. I will buy Thermdor again! They did send us a new range (after repeated service calls). So would so donit again