Grey (which is considered a neutral color) primer provides the best cover, especially for dark colors. By mixing 1 oz of black to 1 can of primer, we were easily able to cover painters tape blue, beet red and dark dreary browns without a second coat. The cover was much more even and provided a better foundation for the new colors.

To ensure paint doesn't seep under your tape, seal it first with a light coat of glaze. It dries clear, there's no problem painting over it, and when you remove the tape, your lines with be crisp. This is especially helpful when painting stripes.

When you have to paint trim or a corner with 2 different colors (like an accent wall or ceiling) a 1 inch SLANTED edge brush work wonders.

Remove all the loose lint with tape from a new fiber roller before using it otherwise you will have small fiber remnants on your walls.

I SWEAR this is a true story. Years ago I worked with a lovely young lady. She and her DH bought a very large, beautiful old house. Problem was that every room needed painted as well as other repairs. As hard as lovely young lady tried she could not get DH to help her paint for he was much more interested in doing other more rewarding jobs. One day when DH entered the house, lovely young lady was painting completely in the n*ude. She told him he could help but no touching allowed until it was all finished. Her house was painted in no time at all. So tip # 1, make sure DH is up for the job, well you know!

Caminic So, that's how you get help! Interesting.

Frenchdressing, here are some of my tips:

Wear cloth gardeners gloves when you paint. They are much more comfortable than latex gloves. Your hands won't sweat.

Use disposable paint tray pans inside your paint trays for very easy clean-up.

Haven't figured out the brush part yet. Mine sometimes look like yours.

I really like all those new cutting in tools, cuts my painting time in less than half.just make sure you don't use too much paint and don't press too hard or else your cutting in will dry darker than your walls. What I always do is use the cutting in tool in small sections than immediately brush out towards the wall, this will blend much better.

Buy good brushes. The ones I like are the 1" and 1 1/2" Purdy.
These two sized brushes will paint everything.

Haven't really found a great roller

Use BM Aura paint. Read up on how to apply it first.
If you are going to tape, use Frogtape. It works. No bleeding.
Use quality brushes and roller covers. I take very good care of my brushes but use a new roller cover for every coat of paint. I can't be bothered to clean a roller cover-call me frivolous.
Buying the BEST materials and tools will cost you about $20 per room more than buying mediocre stuff. Your work will look better and last longer.
Prep. Prep. Prep. Make sure there is no dust or debris anywhere that could get into your work, especially places like the tops of door frames. I like to work fast when I am actually painting and it is much easier to do that if I don't need to stop for anything. I don't open the paint can until it's time to paint, know what I mean?

When cutting in, paint in one direction only. For the second coat, paint in opposite direction. This really works; no brush marks!

I just thought of another one that I have done:

Reuse your roller cover by wrapping it in saran wrap or use a plastic bag with a tie while it is still on the roller. No need to remove. Refrigerate it and bring it down to room temp before use. Store my trays with remaining paint the same way.

I find the paint goes on very easily with the next use since the roller cover is very saturated and have had no shedding. Make sure you use good quality roller covers. I've stored mine up to 3 days this way.

Cute blog! (And cute "nekkid painting" story, Cam!) I completely agree with Roselvr -- buy good brushes! I've attempted to paint with the cheaper versions, and unless you like brush hairs imbedded everywhere in your walls, it's not a good idea!

I also recommend not using that awful painter's tape. I have used it in the past, and it's more trouble than it's worth -- plus I've found it makes for a messier paint job than just taking your time and using a brush carefully along and around edges.

Here's my tip:
I apply "brush plus" by Plaid to every brush BEFORE I start to paint. It is a clear blueish tint gel- brush cleaner. The secret is too put a strip of gel along the base where the bristols are attached. Work the bristols back and forth against your hand or a paint tray to distribute the gel in a light coat throughout the bristols (especially important at the base to keep the paint out of the base of brush). Next dip your brush in paint- never more than half way up the bristols! Work the brush back and forth across a paper towel or paint tray to load the brush for the first time and then paint.

When finished for the day you can either wrap brush with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to three days or wash with a little more brush cleaner let dry completely and then place back into cardboard support that came with the brush.

The brush will clean up faster and cleaner.
You won't worry about buying expensive brushes if you take good care of them they will last forever.

Oh, and you can get "brush plus" at any craft store in the paint area. it comes in bottles like the craft paint type.

Thanks for the wonderful tips. I can tell you have all painted a hundred times before.

The painting in the nude is solid advice. I need to try that!

What does it mean by "cutting" I am not familiar with that term?

I bought..I think it's called The Pelican by Wooster. It's a paint holder with a handle. Great for painting trim. The one side is magnetic so your brush can stick to the side and the other has a spot to rest your little roller. Just be careful you're not getting too into your painting that you're not paying attention to the angle of the container! Ask me how I know this? Glad I had plastic on the floor.

cindyxeus:

"all those new cutting in tools" Which ones?
Great tips!

Heard recently about this: Not sure if itÂs common knowledge. DonÂt use the natural bristle brushes for latex paint; they absorb water, swell, and fray at the corners, like the brush in the picture. Use synthetic for latex. I LOVE the white bristle brushes for varnish, and wondered why they didnÂt do so well for paint. Now I know. For anything oil based they work great.

When using a paint brush, put the paint into a small bucket or cup and dip brush no more than halfway into the paint. Then slap the brush against the sides of the container to remove excess paint.

This will prevent drips.

I learned this tip from a friend when I walked into her brand-new house for a housewarming party and she was walking around finishing the trim. I couldn't believe she was painting without drop clothes in her shiny new living room. She showed me this tip and I've put it to good use many times since.

Wear a bandana or wear your primer in your hair. Forever.

Allow twice as much time for prep than you think you need. Then double that too!

Sorry if this has been mentioned.

I am called the "Trim Queen" (kinda silly) with family and friends and honestly creating a great trim is simply just all about the brush.
I never do any trim using anything but an angeled brush or even better try the STYLETTO brushes that are cut somewhat in a "V".

With the right brush there is no need to tape anything just take your time.

My favorite trim brush is a Shortcut by Wooster. Synthetic, angled, inexpensive, easy to hold. My favorite brush ever:
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Frenchdressing: Cutting in is when you paint along baseboards, the wall next to trim, the ceiling or even corners where there is a different paint color on each wall.

I don't use gloves. A thin coat of vaseline on hands, arms, and face (the occasional splatter, ya know) makes clean up a snap.

What a timely topic, just finished painting my sitting room today. I wish I had known about using grey primer. I painted the room off-white and it took 3 coats to cover the dark green paint.

I don't use tape anymore. Find it's more trouble than it's worth. I use a small angled brush to do the cutting in. I go around and do the cutting in while my DH does the rolling. I 1/2 fill a margarine container with paint and use that to dip the brush in. It's light and easy to carry. When I take a break from painting I can just snap the lid on to keep the paint from drying up and put a sandwich bag over the brush.

I use aluminum foil to fold around the brush instead of plastic. Can even use it for overnight.

Great, great tips. I am going to have to try some of these out. I've got a gallon of SW paint waiting for me as I type. :o)

all those new cutting in tools" Which ones?

anything called an "paint Edger" basically. They have them for doing around window/door casings, moldings etc. they even have ones for doing corners... I love them!
I also always buy artist brushes to get into little spaces behind stuff that a regular paint brush doesn't.
Oh and another tip is I always rinse my good brushes with fabric softener or hair conditioner. This way they always dry soft.

Oh Jeeeezzz....
I could post 8,312 tips here!

My "Top 5" I guess...

1) 2" or 2.5" Purdy XL Cub brush. It's angled with a stub wood handle. Top-notch brush for cutting-in.
2) The green Frog-tape is awesome for those who like to tape/stripe.
3) Either Purdy 3/8"-nap White-Dove OR Wooster Pro-Dooz 3/8" roller-sleeves. These are the best, and no need to "de-lint" them. Use a good, stiff roller-frame too. Look for 5/16" rods. 1/4" frames bend too easily. If you're spending $8-$10 for a frame, it's OK.
4) Dark-gray primer under most Reds/Burgundy (and MANY other dark) colors should be mandatory!!
5) Painter's-caulk is nice for rounding-off inside corners, and sealing gaps between trims and walls.

I could go on & on....;-)

Faron

Here is a link that might be useful: Purdy XL Cub brush

I have a love/hate relationship with paint. Great tips everyone. I will add another tip: to pound nail holes through the lip (all around the indent in the lip) of the paint can so the paint drips back into the can after you pour some out. And the other one that I do is keep my Dyson right by my side as I am sanding so I can suck up the sand as I go along while I am prepping.

Great tips. MyI love my Purdies!

Keep your paint can rim clean, and you won't have to clean it up. Use a big soup ladle to scoop paint out of the can. Hold your tray or smaller jar/can right over the paint can. This will keep the paint out of the rim. Ladles are much easier to clean up than rims.

If you ever do get paint in the can rim, use a 1" or 2" foam brush to clean it out.

I like the small sized rollers. They're lighter weight so my hands and arms don't tire so quickly.

If you're going to paint high up walls, invest in an extension handle. You screw your roller handle right onto the end of it, extend it out, and stand safely on the ground to reach the high stuff. I've also taped a brush to my pole to cut in the high stuff. I stay off a ladder if at all possible.

Things I love are mostly tips I got from reading the paint board.
I love the Wooster Sherlock rollers (between 7-8 dollars at Lowes). I'm a small person and these things just roll down the wall with so little effort that I'm not so tired like I was with the regular roller. Also, the roller cover stays put and doesn't slide to one side or other as it does with a regular roller.
I love Simple Green to clean brushes and rollers. It also is very good for cleaning up those little splatters of paint that might get on carpet even after they are dried.
Corona chinex brushes clean up a lot easier than the others.

When I was painting all the woodwork and doors upstairs, I used one of those metal lids with the plastic spout. It was just perfect for a job that took days and days and days.LOL
I've bought one at Walmart and one at Lowes. The one at Walmart seemed to fit a little better than the Lowes one.

Thanks Lurrkish for explainthe "cutting" term.

All of your TIPS having me excited about painting.
I painted our bathroom, and unfortunately did not have your tips.... but not that I do my house will never be the same :)

Thanks

When you are painting with latex paint, keep a bucket of warm water (and a rag in it) handy. You can instantly wipe up little 'oops'.

#1Check your feet before walking into other rooms not covered with drop cloths. Paint tracks leading to the bathroom are annoying to clean up.
#2 Have a telephone and glass of water (and radio, ipod, etc) already in the room you are painting before starting.
#3 Keep dogs out of the room until paint is dry. See #1.

Does anybody have any good tips for avoiding/eliminating (if you already have them) smooth shiny spots where you've filled in nail pops? I've sanded joint compound smooth (maybe too smooth), primed, and they look OK (hard to tell when primer is different color than paint), then I paint and if the light is hitting wall along it and you look along it instead of dead on, I can still see flat/smooth spots. Thanks.

If I'm just filling in a small nail hole, I push spackle into the hole with my finger, then wipe all around it with a damp cloth, so that the spackle spot is super small (say THAT 6X quickly!) ;-) Then there's no need to sand a nail-hole size patch. I'm lazy about some things - priming a tiny patch & waiting for it to dry before painting isn't one of those things I want to spend time doing.

I ditto & triple the comments about buying excellent quality brushes - most of mine are many years old. I recently bought a Corona, & the fellow at BM told me he liked them better than Purdy because Purdy brushes are no longer hand made, & the quality isn't what it used to be. I have no idea if he was right, but I like the feel of that particular size in my hand, & I love the brush.

One thing I'm not lazy about is keeping my brushes clean. I'm a little anal about that, & can't even bring myself to try the wrapped & refrigerated brushes - I just have to clean them every time.

These are great tips! I can't think of anything else right now that hasn't already been mentioned.

Two tips:
When repairing settle cracks in wall (as over door frame,etc) cut a strip of drywall tape (the paper kind and maybe it's called joint tape) the length of your crack. Soak it for a minute or two in water, skim a little joint compound over the crack and position the wet tape over it. Use a compound spatula or scraper to smooth it down and wipe off excess. Let it dry completely and then start going over it with thin layers of compound, (with a tool of course) drying between each coat, then smooth out, prime and paint.
Your crack shouldn't come back.
Second tip: when storing leftover paint, secure the lid with rubber mallet, and store your paint can upside down. This will keep air from getting in. Might want to test it inside a box first to make sure you got the lid on tight and no leaks.

ajasmama- For those shiny or too smooth spots where you have repaired- It could be the paint sheen that makes the spot stand out ( flat or eggshell paint hide defects in the wall best, semi gloss and gloss highlight the defects).

So sometimes I will make my repair and sand smooth, use my primer to cover spot and then do several small passes of primer (drying in between coats), with small roller if my walls have the orange peel effect from previous painters or if it is a brush stroke texture then I would try and do several small coats using a brush to create the texture. In a sense you are aging that spot or building up the paint layers to match the texture of the paint on the rest of the wall.

It's a lot of extra steps but if it bothers you that much it is worth it. I did a whole room of nail pop repairs this same way and it only took me an extra prep day to my schedule. First day was repairing and filling holes. Next day I walked around the room and textured each spot 3 times waiting several hours in between.

Thanks pinkpowertools. My painter had told me last year to pound in the nail (which makes a bigger but shallow depression) and do at least 3 passes of joint compound, but never explained how to get the texture right. he told me then to just put 2-3 coats of the same paint (no need for primer) but I found that w/o primer the compound just soaked up the paint and the sheen was never right. I'm using BM Regal Matte so it's not shiny paint. I just had to fix a dozen more screw (not sure why screws would be popping as the house settles) pops in MBR. I'll do another coat of paint over the 1 primer, 1 paint in those areas but told DH that we may just have to paint the whole wall again like they did with our DR and study in order to hide the rows of nail pops in those rooms.

Monaw - I've had seams (and settling cracks, but mostly seams) taped professionally 9 months after building, a year later they're back. Think it's just that the house is still settling? DH says we have to wait a few more years then fix and paint again - how long should it take a house to settle enough to make a repair permanent? Thanks