Help with Carrier Infinity Heat/AC setup

12 years ago

Hey guys...

I just purchased what I hope is a complete and correct setup for my home. and am looking for a bit of help.

Here is what I bought

CARRIER INFINITY 58MVC080-F-1-20 Multipoise Variable-Capacity Furnace 80,000 btu

24ana136 infinity 3ton high efficiency outdoor a/c unit,

3.5 ton coil I have a capvt4221ata Thermostat SYSTXCCUID01-B control

LP Conversion kit

I'm having difficulty determining the appropriateness of the coil ...part # capvt4221ata for my furnace. Someone said it was a old part number. But I'm looking for info to determine its size and whether it has the needed txv as part of it.

Any help appreciated..

Thx

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Comments (16)

tigerdunes
12 years ago
A nice system

That's an old mdl condenser that has been replaced.

The AHRI number is the following.

3859566 Discontinued Systems INFINITY 21 PURON AC CARRIER AIR CONDITIONING 24ANA136A32 Ã¯Â¿Â½ CAP**4221A** 58MV(B,C)080-20 36600 13.30 18.00

I would verify this with your dealer and ask for the updated Infinity 21 model with the correct coil. It should not matter with dealer.

IMO
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
Wow...Thx 4 the fast response...
I bought the system at a substantial savings...knowing that it might be older stock. I just wanted to confirm that it was actually a matched setup according to AHRI. and that it was indeed a good setup. Any further input appreciated. I stilled wondered about the txv valve part ?
Would u know if its a part of that particular coil...or will need to be purchased as well?
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12" return is almost definitely too large for the basement. I have a 6" return in my basement, and I have actually found it to draw ~200-240 cfm (using a barometer) -- plenty in my case with just a few supply outlets. In your case, I have no way of knowing for sure, but I assume it's piped directly (or near) to the inlet of the furnace blower compartment, in which case there is a lot of pressure and it's sucking in a lot of air and making the basement quite negative (not a good thing). So your basement return in that state may have been drawing close to, if not more than, half of the return air the entire system requires. Is the basement floorplan open to the rest of the home or closed off? If typically closed off, I wouldn't be surprised if the basement door had a tendency to close itself when the system was operating. I suppose putting cardboard over half of the grille is one way to reduce its intake capacity. Your older furnace does not (presumably) have a variable speed blower that will vary its RPM in order to maintain a specific CFM setting. That means that while you are noticing more airflow from the rest of the returns throughout the home, in totality your system is receiving less airflow -- no, not a good thing considering your ductwork is likely undersized to begin with. You have decreased its return capacity. To get the SAME (total) airflow from the rest of the returns throughout the home that were not previously drawing as much air generally requires the system to operate at an increased static; with older PSC type blower motors (non variable-speed), this results in decreased airflow. Hence variable speed motors are often termed "constant CFM" as they can adjust (increase) their speed to maintain a constant airflow (cfm) when subjected to as much as 0.8-1.0" of external static pressure (vs. conventional blowers max. of 0.5", which many duct systems are nowhere close to achieving despite it being the standard "design" figure). You can think of the ESP number as a measure of resistance to airflow, in a sense. The fact that you say the (supply?) ductwork is now much warmer is both concerning and telling. It is unwise for me to say much more than that as I am not there to evaluate your system design and give an accurate assessment of the ductwork design/layout, etc. But it suffices to say, with the info you've provided us, your return ductwork is now more restrictive, which would exacerbate any existing airflow issues. You do say it met the set point without tripping the high limit. Please let us know how the system performs as it gets colder out and the system runs more often in its present state. I would like to ask what made you consider replacing the systems (and proceeding to get 8 proposals) in the first place? Are there functional problems with the existing equipment (besides most likely being oversized) or other comfort issues? By now we have at least established that it is likely the existing equipment is a bit oversized and the existing ductwork is marginal -- but that is (unfortunately) exceedingly common on most residential construction. Are you after more efficiency, better comfort, both? It helps us to help you when we know more about your current system's performance. Lastly, I would not factor online reviews into your decision too much. An air conditioner or furnace is not like most appliances (such as a refrigerator) in that the installation practices and quality can make or break even the best equipment selection. There is a good chance that many (but not all) of the negative reviews you read were due to installation errors. This post was edited by ryanhughes on Fri, Nov 22, 13 at 9:51
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mike_home
12 years ago
I found the following on the AHRI directory:

3859566 Discontinued Systems INFINITY 21 PURON AC CARRIER AIR CONDITIONING 24ANA136A32 CAP**4221A** 58MV(B,C)080-20 36600 13.30 18.00 1 RCU-A-CB 237 Yes

The system is discontinued, but appears to be a proper match. A TXV is required. The product data for the coil states the TXV is included.

Who is doing the installation?
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
A local heating/air company that said they were really slow right now and could make me a great deal. Why do u ask? Does it matter..? Or just questioning a proper installation? does who installs it..affect the warranty?
tigerdunes
12 years ago
adaddo

The idea that this will be a propane fueled furnace tells me you should add a HP condenser and not an AC condenser if your electric rate is reasonable. I have already seen propane prices above $3.00 and you know propane tracks home heating fuel oil prices.

IMO
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
Someone else mentioned this as well. Are you saying that a Heatpump would be better...with installed electric strips so that the system would be totally electric ?
tigerdunes
12 years ago
Adaddo

What is your location?

What is your electric rate?

What is price/gal of propane?

Are operating costs important to you?

IMO
mike_home
12 years ago
The equipment needs to be installed by a qualified HVAC contractor. The models you listed are the best furnace, condenser and controller Carrier has in their line up. The performance numbers and comfort features won't mean anything if the equipment is not properly sized or incorrectly installed.

I am a little skeptical of an HVAC contractor who says they are slow at the start of the winter season. Do you have confidence in this contractor?
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
I'm in Indiana
Propane is currently 2.30/gal
Electricity (most recent bill 2362 kwh = 200.00)is that cheap?
Operating costs are a factor. I tried to weigh pro's n cons ....
The deal has been made ...so it looks like i'll be doing this LP sysytem. But feedback is definitely welcome
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
Thx Mike_home for your feedback as well. As far as faith in the installer.....I've only talked with them on the phone...But seems very knowledgable thus far when talking of the install. Talked of correct static pressures and such. This is uncharted territory for myself. Any further recommendations are truly appreciated. Thanks everyone, for your continued input.
tigerdunes
12 years ago
Adaddo

Not getting a HP is a big mistake.

Here are the numbers on a BTU basis comparison.

Cost per 100,000 btu of useable heat

Electric baseboard: $2.64
Heat pump: $1.09
Propane: $2.65

Even straight electric resistance heat is about the same as propane.

In fact, a heat pump with electric heat strips from an operating standpoint is worthy of consideration. But definitely, a hybrid or dual fuel is a much better choice than all propane heating.

IMO
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
Wow...
Thx Tigerdunes...for the calculations
Although a bit depressing in my current situation.
I have alot of money in the above stated equipment...not sure how i'll proceed ...Hmmmm
heatseeker
12 years ago
You do get what you pay for- buyer beware.
mike_home
12 years ago
"As far as faith in the installer.....I've only talked with them on the phone...But seems very knowledgable thus far when talking of the install."

Has the contractor visited your house?
adaddo
Original Author
12 years ago
No...
He'll be here tomorrow
weedmeister
12 years ago
Do you currently have propane in the house or will this be new?

Do you currently have sufficient capacity in your electrical panel for electric heat strips (200amps)?

What TD is getting at is that apparent cost of electrical heat strips and propane is the same. Since a HP is more efficient than electric strips when it is operating (say above 28F), it would be cheaper to use a HP over 28f than propane (or electric strips).

The decision depends on the cost difference of going with a HP over the discontinued AC the dealer is offering.

Help with Carrier Infinity Heat/AC setup

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tigerdunes

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