I agree for separate potting, over all aesthetics would be less confusing on the eye. If not separate it would be one rather large pot for a complete presentation but would be perhaps to heavy. You've done a nice job for a hard prune. Personally, I'd of use two thicker wires to hold that one part up and maybe would also of wired some of it's area to develop a welcoming effect for later growth. I'm just not a big fan of the "lollipop" effect for these trees. Best example is how I'm really liking the one in front right view already. This side ( front) would be viewed as it looks like it is getting ready to bend down to give a warm hug. Seeing though the tree is also a preference and might bee a good idea for you. If you have a "plan" then I'm thinking you can easily tell and know when and what to remove as it grows to get the effect you want. If you dont already know "Pruning basics" for a Jade then feel free to ask. When you do water, water first then wait two or three days to prune OR wire, DO avoid doing all three things in the same time frame.

I bought one of these this year, to use with large tough-stemmed grasses: It's a Black & Decker 20" hedge trimmer. $50 at Home Depot. It does a great job on thick-stemmed grasses like Miscanthus and Ravenna Grass. It's the first power tool I've used for grasses, and I wonder why I waited so long. For less tough grasses, and all my Carex plants, I use Corona hand shears. Fine-bladed clumpers like C. divulsa are a 2-hand job for me. One hand to hold up a handful of the blades, and the other to shear it off. I shape the clump into a ball, so it grows right back into a uniform clump.

Well, it's hard to put this in a nutshell. The knife geeks will, almost to a one, tell you to invest in some good whet stones and learn to sharpen knives that way. If you are not interested in doing all that, and you are not purchasing Hattoris or Carters or some other work-of-art cutting implement, then I think the 120 should be satisfactory. I have used the 110 (a long time ago), and the Commercial 2000, which does not have the fine stropping discs. Beware that these are not set up for Japanese knives, which have very acute edge angles, say 15-18 degrees. The German ones are 20-25. Also, you can find online free videos about how to use the electric sharpener, but I cannot recall the website--maybe Knife Merchant? If you are not attached to angles finer than the usual ones put on the German knives like Henckels and Wusthof, then check out the 120. Also, call Williams-Sonoma or Sur La Table or a similar store and ask people there what their experience is and whether they will demonstrate the use of an electric sharpener. I use the 2000 on some of my knives and finish up with a stone. For my Japanese ones, I only use the stones. There is a knife forum, called "Knife Forum," astonishingly. Those folks know everything about knives and sharpening; many are professional chefs.

I use stones. Simple and sort of contemplative. A trick is, take a square of paper (like a post-it), fold in half on the diagonal once, then fold in half again, the result is a 22.5 degree wedge. If one of those folds is in thirds, the result is a 15.0 degree wedge. That piece of folded paper can be used to help you hold the knife at the desired angle. Typically European chef knifes were factory sharpened at about 20 degrees, that is on each side, so total included angle 40 degrees. Japanese slicing knives are typically sharpened at 15 degrees, and sometimes only on one side, for total included angle 15 to 30 degrees. The wider angle holds up better to heavy work (crunching through a chicken) with the softer steel of typical European knives. The narrower angle cuts more easily but requires harder steel and isn't as tolerant of abuse. You might, for instance, sharpen your big Chef's knife to 20 degrees and your slicer to 15 degrees. I have European knives and sharpen them all to 15 degrees, I don't abuse them and they hold up. For chopping up chickens etc I have a cheap cleaver that never gets sharpened.