The bigger one is a phalaenopsis and the smaller one is a mystery. We rescued it from a terrarium where it looked really unhappy. I haven't seen it bloom yet so I have no idea what it is. It has roots and not bulbs if that helps. The sphagnum is "Mosser Lee Long-Fibered Sphagnum". I've included the link below for more information. The glazed pot is bad? Really? It's an orchid pot with lots of holes on the sides. It seems like the plastic would be much worse since it only had holes at the bottom. Granted, I can't see the roots anymore but I feel like the orchids will get a lot more air around their roots in the new pots. I guess my main concern was that I didn't want to over-saturate the moss with water. Perhaps I should see how the moss acts before I start to worry. Thanks for your help! Here is a link that might be useful: Sphagnum Moss Link

For people who grow roses in a climate like mine, a medium zone 5 in the middle of Michigan, I could distill everything I think I know about spring pruning to three points: 1) Don't prune too early or you'll just have to prune again; don't prune too late or the plant will just waste it's energy trying to make new growth on damaged wood. Tax time (April 15th) plus or minus a few weeks works for me. 2) Ignore spring pruning advice given in books by people who don't live in your zone. For example, the standard advice to not prune Hybrid Teas until the end of their second year is just silly if you live in zone 5. 3) The one most important rule: Prune back each cane until you see a completely white or green cut surface across the cane, with no brown in the center (this is one case where the standard advice in rose books is correct). If your rose ends up with any canes longer than 6 inches, either you didn't follow this advice, or the winter was unusually mild, or you have some superior method for winter-protection, or your rose is exceptionally cold-hardy, or you don't live in zone 5.

That died due to girdling roots. One cause of which is planted too deep. another is was in container too long.

At some point they will become crowded and blooms will be reduced, but your photo doesn't show them over crowded. Yes, closely planted, but offsets will get really up close and personal with each other! I planted this long planter with tulips and hyacinths on the bottom layer, daffodils in the middle and pushinka, crocus and Iris reticulata on top (there might be anemone in there as well....forgetting). It's literally packed. Anyway, Katob is completely correct - competing foliage is more your enemy.