I never fertilize my glads. The flower is already developed in the bulb and fertilizer is not needed to cause it to bloom. If the bulb is not of a sufficient size to bloom the fertilizer may be helpful to prepare it for next years bloom. Glads produce many small bulbs that will take a year or three to reach blooming size. If you have purchased bulbs they are very dependable bloomers, taking around 90 days from planting to bloom. Working with a lot of bulbs most gardeners will plant weekly to extend the blooming period. You don't say what you are using for planting medium but packaged mixes will be fertile enough and one of the problems of glads is growing too tall and falling over. Al

My plants turn in a tiny bit on the outside edge but my shelf is over flowing with small plantlets. Once I start burning the lighting on the lowest shelf it won't be a problem. I could always get 40 watt bulbs to help with that but its not a problem for me. Heck, After growing in natural light I'm not complaining. The width of 25" is a bit much for a single fixture to handle. I made mine 20x48 with a 20" space between the shelfs. The shop lights that I used are wider than 4' so I planned to make the unit 50" but cut it back to 48" to save on material costs. I'll bet a three bulb unit would work wonders for your stand but I've never seen one. It seems four bulbs is too much light and a waste of energy. Even if you switched to 25watt bulbs if you could it still won't be any cheaper than running 32 watt t-8's. At least that was what I have been told. Could you go back to one fixture with a removeable (if needed) reflector for the backside to help throw some light back on the plants? You'd be amazed at the ammount of light that gets cast off the sides of the stand. Irina, Why not make your own stand and be in control! I find myself going to a store looking for some particular item only to go back home think up an idea and go back to the store picking my brain to find this and that and doing the job myself! Its easy. Make three rectangles out of 1x3 pine. 20x48 Glue and screw. Cover each with plywood. Get four up rights out of 1x3 and screw them to the three rectangles 20" apart. I did 4" form bottom, then 20" and 20". Get light fixtures, by the bulbs and hang. I had leftover paint I used. $80.00 total cost. Thats two lighted shelfs with storage on top.

Boxwoods and azaleas have some similarity in their requirements but, of interest to you, is that the two shrubs have shallow roots. You can probably grow them together but try not to plant them too close or else their roots will get entangled and begin to compete for resources (food and water). You do not mention anything about sunlight. I assume that the azaleas will receive morning sun and afternoon shade; the boxwoods can handle full sun but probably do better with a little shade. Be aware that azaleas also require well draining, moist, acidic soils. Boxwoods require slightly acidic conditions like pH ranges between 6 to 7 and will tolerate other types of pH ranges. Azaleas will be more picky about this so, if your soil is not acidic, consider planting in raised beds instead. See the post script note at the bottom. As for the space and the question whether it will be enough, well, it will be enough if both types of shrubs are selected based on similar height at maturity. Since you already have boxwoods, choose azaleas that will grow about as tall as the boxwoods. Maybe shoot for 1-3' high Kurume Azaleas? Just remember that all this depends on meeting the sunlight requirements (morning sun and afternoon shade; dappled sun works well too) and soil requirements (well draining, moist, acidic soils; or use raised beds). Luis PS - Concrete from the house and the walkway releases lime as time goes on. Lime helps make soils less acidic so be aware too that you may need to amend the soil there once a year or so in order to prevent the pH from becoming too alkaline (the opposite of acidic). You can get around this problem with raised beds too.

In general, the lesson is that if you leave them together they'll grow great. At least as great as one plant would have grown in that spot. If a "decent" crop is the crop you'd get with just one plant, leave 'em be. If a "decent" crop is what you'd get if you had separated them into totally independent plants, then you'd better do that. Two or more plants in one spot grow as one plant would have in that spot. I grow seedlings in 4-inch pots. After multi-seeding a 4-inch pot, I sometimes leave two seedlings in that pot, and plant them both together. It's sort of insurance, in case something bad happens to one. I could always pull one out, but why?